Author Topic: Short ejector rod on Richards Type II (Read 15567 times)

Pettifogger · « **Reply #20 on:** February 01, 2008, 10:12:49 PM »

OK. Old on top, new on bottom. The flat spot on the top rod is to help clear the cylinder wall since the rod comes so close. I'll mill a flat on the new ones as soon as I get a chance.

Fox Creek Kid · « **Reply #21 on:** February 01, 2008, 10:29:36 PM »

Thank you, sir.

Pappy Hayes · « **Reply #22 on:** February 05, 2008, 08:39:23 PM »

Abilene I sent my gun to Cimarron on Saturday. It is suppose to be there either Tuesday or Wednesday. If you are the one to work on it, can you go ahead and put one of the longer rods on?

Advertising · « **Reply #23 on:** **Today** at 05:44:13 AM »

Abilene · « **Reply #23 on:** February 07, 2008, 10:59:22 PM »

Howdy Pappy,
I sure will. I was checking out your gun today but then I got redirected as we had to unload the trailer back from Shot Show and check in all the show guns. I will be back there on Monday and hopefully get back to your gun then.

Abilene

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #24 on:** February 08, 2008, 06:16:39 AM »

I just saw this posting. I will check my gun when I get home. I havent fired it yet so I wouldnt have detected the short rod problem. My question is for those of us that are not gunsmiths, will Cimarron fix gun for free if we send it back to them?

I would also like to know which rod is more historically correct. Were they orginally produced with the short ejector rod?

Abilene · « **Reply #25 on:** February 08, 2008, 06:53:42 AM »

Deadeye,
It would appear that some originals had the short rod but most had the longer rod.

Will Cimarron fix it for free? You mean replace the ejector rod? Well sure, but it is so somple to fix that most anybody should be able to do it themselves. If you prefer to have Cimarron replace your rod(s) then just mail in your barrel(s). No need to ship overnight that way, save a bunch of $$$.

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #26 on:** February 08, 2008, 06:59:59 AM »

Abilene, Thank you for the reply. I will check mine when I get home and compare it to the pictures. I may already have the longer rod.

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #27 on:** February 13, 2008, 03:12:04 PM »

Quote from: Abilene on January 25, 2008, 09:28:36 PM

Cimarron has received the new longer rods from Uberti.

Those who own a transition Richards with the short rod and want the longer one can call Cimarron and request the long rod.

I know some of you folks who have owned OT's and conversions already know how to change the rod, but some pards may not know that the finger tab at the end is screwed onto the rod. In case you don't know how to change the part, it can be little more involved than an SAA. First, take off the barrel. Then remove the forward-most screw on the barrel which secures the ejector housing. To remove the ejector housing, you will probably need to use a brass punch or wooden dowel and drive the housing out from the rear, putting force on the cylindrical portion of the bracket that is seated in the rammer hole directly below the bore. Don't strike or use any force on the tubular ejectyor housing itself as it can be deformed. If the bracket is really tight in the rammer hole, it might help to soak it overnight in penetrating oil. Once the ejector assembly is free of the barrel, the nut (the tab that you push with your finger to eject rounds) must be unscrewed from the end of the rod. The threads can be very tight, so you will likely have to push the ejector rod out until the end of the rod is free from the housing and then secure the end of the rod in a padded vice. Then unscrew the nut (finger tab) from the end of the rod (you will be rotating the entire ejector assembly around the axis of the rod as you turn the nut). After doing this, the nut can be removed siideways from the ejector housing at the forward end of the slot. Once the nut is out, the spring will try to fly out of the open forward end of the housing. Release the rear end of the rod from the vice and slide it out of the housing; place the longer rod into the housing, then the spring. then put the nut back in and screw it back onto the rod. You will need to compress the spring with a small screwdriver or similar throigh the slot to keep it out of the way while you start the rod to thread into the nut. Screw it in tight and then replace the bracket into the rammer slot. Again, don't put any force on the ejector housing itself. Use a rubber hammer on the front of the bracket if needed at the point where it slides into the rammer hole.

That's pretty wordy, would have been better to have pictures . To tell the truth, you could probably change the rod without removing the ejector assembly from the barrel.

If your ejector feels rougn like Pettifogger mentioned (a lot of them feel that way at first), you might want to smooth the edges of the slot while you have the rod and spring removed.

Hope that helps!

Ok so the main thing to do is get a grip on the ejector rod and then turn it while keeping hold of the finger tap thing so that the rod actually unscrews from the finger tab thing. Correct? As long as you can turn the rod without marring the barrel then you may not have to remove the ejector assembly from the barrel. Correct? It will unscrew counter clock wise. Correct? Thanks.

My new rod is on its way from Cimarron. Kirk ? was very helpful but wondered how I heard about the short rod problem. I didnt tell him but then he said it must have been Abilene.

Fox Creek Kid · « **Reply #28 on:** February 13, 2008, 04:09:10 PM »

Here's a link with photo of an original Type II here on CAS City.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,18955.0.html

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #29 on:** February 14, 2008, 06:11:24 AM »

Quote from: Fox Creek Kid on February 13, 2008, 04:09:10 PM

Here's a link with photo of an original Type II here on CAS City.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,18955.0.html

Makes you wonder if Uberti even does research on some aspects of the guns they produce. Clearly there was a longer ejector rod with the originals. My Adler book shows the same thing.

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #30 on:** February 15, 2008, 09:06:00 AM »

Abilene, Are you out there?

Ok so the main thing to do is get a grip on the ejector rod and then turn it while keeping hold of the finger tap thing so that the rod actually unscrews from the finger tab thing. Correct? As long as you can turn the rod without marring the barrel then you may not have to remove the ejector assembly from the barrel. Correct? It will unscrew counter clock wise. Correct? Thanks.

Pettifogger · « **Reply #31 on:** February 15, 2008, 09:39:01 AM »

Deadeye, all you have to do is remove the screw and then use a brass punch to knock the ejector out. Might as well remove it and disassemble it so you can beburr and do a little polishing. Both of mine were like sewer pipes. After smoothing up all the rough edges in the groove they both work much smoother.

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #32 on:** February 15, 2008, 09:47:48 AM »

Abeline had indicated that he did not have to remove the ejector housing. I dont want to have to do anything more than I have to do to change out the rod. I am no where near a gunsmith.

Fox Creek Kid · « **Reply #33 on:** February 15, 2008, 10:20:49 AM »

Pettifogger is correct, however if you do have to remove the ejector I would advise squirting solvent (I used Ballistol) in all the seams, front & back of the ejector, and letting it soak in for a while and do NOT forget to remove the cross screw. The ejector rod screws on & off like a normal bolt, i.e., "righty tighty, lefty loosey" from the rear

Use a round wooden dowel that fits the part of the ejector assembly that goes through the old percussion rammer hole. You have to whack it hard. Again, DO NOT forget to remove the ejector assembly cross screw before!!!

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #34 on:** February 15, 2008, 10:23:06 AM »

Thanks Kid. Appreciate the reply. I think I will soak the barrel and assembly in ballistol before trying to unscrew the rod.

Abilene · « **Reply #35 on:** February 15, 2008, 02:02:23 PM »

Deadeye,
Correct, there is no need to remove the ejector assembly to replace the rod, you only need to remove the barrel. But if you do want to remove the ejector assembly from the barrel for whatever reason, follow the other instructions posted earlier.

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #36 on:** February 15, 2008, 02:04:04 PM »

Quote from: Abilene on February 15, 2008, 02:02:23 PM

Deadeye,
Correct, there is no need to remove the ejector assembly to replace the rod, you only need to remove the barrel. But if you do want to remove the ejector assembly from the barrel for whatever reason, follow the other instructions posted earlier.

Thanks Abilene. I will follow your advice. Hopefully, the rod and new spring will arrive today so I can do it over the weekend.

Bangor Dan · « **Reply #37 on:** February 18, 2008, 05:09:30 PM »

Abilene,

I've placed an order for the Cimarron Richards Type II through Ultona. Will it come with the new long rod already installed?
Thanks,

Bangor Dan

Deadeye Don · « **Reply #38 on:** February 18, 2008, 05:11:25 PM »

Success and it took me about 5 minutes.

Abilene · « **Reply #39 on:** February 18, 2008, 06:31:30 PM »

Bangor Dan,
Probably not. I've only had a chance to install the long rods on a very few of the guns on the shelf at Cimarron. You'll probably need to call Cimarron and have them send you the rod.

Don,
see I told you it was easy

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Author Topic: Short ejector rod on Richards Type II (Read 15567 times)

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