Centerfire Breechblocks?

[DJ]

With the replicas and increased interest in shooting Spencers and all, what are the sources for centerfire breechblocks?  I've tried S&S, but am not really happy with it because of the need to recock the hammer before opening the action (because the firing pin protrudes).  I've talked to Larry Romano, and he avoids that problem by using a rebounding or floating firing pin, but I haven't managed to catch him when he's making spare blocks.  Are there other, better sources?  Will a Taylor block work in an original?

--DJ

[Two Flints]

Reposted from an earlier topic on Spencer Breech Block Conversions:  Hope this helps some until the experts can contribute more info.

Two Flints

I have the S&S block in my Spencer and have been very happy with it.  A friend has a couple of Spencers with the conversion blocks, one Buffalo Arms and one S&S, and he prefers the S&S.  The reason for this is that with the BA block the firing pin is held forward all of the time when the hammer is down.  This will cause the firing pin to shear off if the hammer is left down and the action is worked.  The S&S has a spring that holds the firing pin back even when the hammer is down so that shearing should not be a problem.  That being said I have had to replace my S&S firing pin once and don't know why.  Firing pins run $8.00 a piece from S&S.

My Spencer is a fairly early carbine and a true .52 caliber.  To make it shoot I had to go to a Rapine .520 hollow base mold which throws bullets about .521 which I then size to .520.  For brass I'm using Rocky Moutain Cartridge Co. 56-50 cases which work well, but are rather expensive, $44.00 for twenty.  My Spencer shooting buddy has told me about another fellow that sells them for $75.00 for 50.  I'll be able to give you more info after I return from the N-SSA nationals next week.

I'm using Rapine 56-50 dies to load my cartridges.  As I went to .520 bullets I had Ray make a .520 case mouth sizer for me as his dies come with a .518.  This all seems to work well for me in my gun.

I'm afraid I can't help you with ready made bullets as I always mold my own.  Good luck with your gun.

Ed, 1st Va. Cav.

[Major 2]

I have an early S&S Block (purchased in 1981) it is spring loaded a retracts the firing pin.

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[Glenn]

Dixie has some with rebound pins.  My experience, they take a lot of fitting, need a lighter spring and won't always pop the cap the first time(always on the second).  I have an S&S and cocking first isn't all that bad. Now get going, these things are way too much fun to wait.

[Harve Curry]

Firing pins break while opening with the hammer down??

My original is a M 1865.  My center fire breech block is custom made. Cost was comparable to S&S.
I had a machinist make a central fire block by copying the rimfire from the gun using a duplicating mill. When it came to the firing pin, it has a light retracting spring.
 Either way it makes no difference on my Spencer because as the breach opens it also come rearward and the firing pin is clear of scraping the back of the chamber opening. That should be them same on anybody's Spencer. I haven't broke any firng pins. I don't have any miss fires. I use large rifle primers only and usually Ww.

[Major 2]

"...breach opens it also come rearward and the firing pin is clear of scraping the back of the chamber opening"
That's true ...
but it is the opposite on closing

[geo]

the original spencer was to be cocked before the action was cycled because the hammer at rest could ignite the rimfire when the action was closed. i make it a practice to put the hammer on full cock before working the action. on the original spencer the half-cock was not a safety feature. nor is it on the repros. good luck, geo.