Main & Winchester Rig

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks, Skeet. Buck does know his stuff. I hadn't heard that but I have yet to see a photo of an original with one.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

OK, the fog is in this morning giving the light that good photo quality. I grabbed a shot before everything got wet.

[Major 2]

WOW.....simply WOW ! 

[Advertising]

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thank you, Major.

I've now made a few minor corrections to the pattern so next time I make one of these it will more accurately represent the original in the photo. On the belt, I worked the leather both ways to make it more flexible. That adds some character to the leather, too.

[Rube Burrows]

OK, the fog is in this morning giving the light that good photo quality. I grabbed a shot before everything got wet.

Wonderful all the way around.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks, Rube.

[Johnny McCrae]

Beautiful! I love the buckle you used. It looks perfect on this rig.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thank you, John. That buckle has been in my box for a number of years. I had a new buckle for this belt but that one looked better.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

When I dyed the pieces, I sprayed them with pure alcohol first so the dye would take more evenly. Then I just kept adding it heavily and quickly with a small piece of sponge until it all looked even.

Looks great Will,  I really like the California Slim Jims.

Hey Will, how did you spray the alcohol?  Spray bottle or airbrush?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Looks great Will,  I really like the California Slim Jims.

Hey Will, how did you spray the alcohol?  Spray bottle or airbrush?

I use a pump spray bottle that puts out a fine mist. An airbrush would work fine, and I have one, but there's less cleanup with the spray bottle. I have one of those chargible spray cans. Maybe I'll try that one of these days. I go over the piece front and back, a couple times each until they are evenly coated, including the edges, then I add the dye, either by wiping it on quickly or dunking the whole thing, depending on the size of the piece(s). If one piece is too big to dunk, I wipe it on all of them so the coverage is the same. In the case of this project, the belt was too big to dunk so all pieces got dye wiped on. When I wipe it on, I wipe both sides and the edges at least once, sometimes a couple times to get even coverage. I get them pretty wet. If I want a lighter color, I dilute the dye rather than trying to put less on.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Thanks, Will.  Do you mix Pro Dye with the regular Dye?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I haven't tried the Pro Dye. Can't say on that. All my dyes just say Fiebings on them. I've had most of them for a number of years, now.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

Thanks.  I was at my local (30 miles) Tandy and he had mixed any browns that were low.  Came out with an interesting brown .  He had used anything that was not water based.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

That's how I do it. It seems that a standard brown just isn't interesting enough. Too cool a color or too much black in it or something. A little russet or something and it looks better.

I mix up a big enough batch to do several projects. When I have several low jars of this or that, I combine them and start again. The color I used on the M&W was several generations of adding and mixing. If I have a color that is good but I don't have enough to do a project, I can add a little alcohol and make it lighter.

I've never used water based dyes. Maybe some day, but probably not in the near future. I don't see a reason to use them.

I tried making my own brown from walnut and/or pecan hulls but the color was too anemic. Now I just stay with the tried and true alcohol-based dyes. Except for black. You can't beat vinegaroon for black.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

I like vinegaroon also.  Still have trouble getting rid of the vinegar smell though.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I like vinegaroon also.  Still have trouble getting rid of the vinegar smell though.

Do you wipe it on or dunk the piece? I never have a lingering vinegar smell but I wipe it on, neutralize it and finish with Skidmore's.

[PAMuzzleshooter]

I’ve only dunked mine.  How do you neutralize it? And do you dunk or wipe neutralizer?
I actually added some orange peel to my solution to eliminate the vinegar smell.  I’ll experiment with the wiping method today.

I’m going to have to check out some of that Skidmore stuff.  Which type do you use?

[Major 2]

I was not exactly asked, but I'd like to comment on Skidmores.

They make several products, the Skidmore’s Leather Cream, Wood Restoration Cream, Biker Waterproofing cream. and offer a liquid,  in addition they carry a line of Bees wax working products.

Now, I'm not doing a paid commercial, but my own testimonial.
I have used Skidmores 10 or 12 years.
 BTW the Leather cream and Wood Restoration cream are the exact same product they even say so in print on their own website.
I have used it as the only finish on new leather, or as the final finish over new dyed leather.
 I also used as the only finish on new gunstocks or rubbed it into older stocks.
Here are 4 photos
1. is new a replacement Garand stock which had no finish...only Skidmores
2. my recently handmade Cocobolo 1911 grips...only Skidmores applied
    and the holster I made for it, dyed and final finished with Skidmore's
3 is vintage 80 years old WW2 Holster bring back along with the Luger,  that was quite dry. Skidmore's was applied liberally, and it is soft and pliable now...

and lastly another holster I made with just Skidmore's as the only finish...

Safe to say I like the product 

[Johnny McCrae]

I’ve only dunked mine.  How do you neutralize it? And do you dunk or wipe neutralizer?

I slosh the Holster around in a slurry of Baking Soda and water, then rinse thoroughly. This has always eliminated the Vinegar odor for me.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I was not exactly asked, but I'd like to comment on Skidmores.

They make several products, the Skidmore’s Leather Cream, Wood Restoration Cream, Biker Waterproofing cream. and offer a liquid,  in addition they carry a line of Bees wax working products.

Now, I'm not doing a paid commercial, but my own testimonial.
I have used Skidmores 10 or 12 years.
 BTW the Leather cream and Wood Restoration cream are the exact same product they even say so in print on their own website.
I have used it as the only finish on new leather, or as the final finish over new dyed leather.
 I also used as the only finish on new gunstocks or rubbed it into older stocks.
Here are 4 photos
1. is new a replacement Garand stock which had no finish...only Skidmores
2. my recently handmade Cocobolo 1911 grips...only Skidmores applied
    and the holster I made for it, dyed and final finished with Skidmore's
3 is vintage 80 years old WW2 Holster bring back along with the Luger,  that was quite dry. Skidmore's was applied liberally, and it is soft and pliable now...

and lastly another holster I made with just Skidmore's as the only finish...

Safe to say I like the product 

This says it all. Leather or Restoration cream is what I use. I've also used it on old furniture and other wooden items. It works wonders with old leather, too.
It breathed new life into this old Wyeth holster.



After the vinegaroon, I wipe on the neutralizer (baking soda & water very diluted, perhaps a teaspoon in a quart of water) because I figure it's only going to soak in as far as the vinegaroon. Too much baking soda will burn the leather and make it brittle. Then I rinse it off. When dry, I treat it with Skidmore's. I think the Skidmore's also acts to neutralize it.