Holster Number 4. Now my Single Six Has A New Ride.

[Rube Burrows]

Decided I’d make my Ruger Single Six something to ride in. I modified this holster from Al Stholman’s How To Make Holsters book. The last page has this holster but I changed the strap and put my own designs. Eventually I’ll work my way up to real carvings.

This is my 4th holster and I’m getting more comfortable doing things but still make enough mistakes to keep it interesting.

My biggest problem on all of them so far is getting my holes on the back to be as uniform as they are in the front.

Thinking about tackling a pair of Schofield holsters next or maybe a belt first.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Nice, that makes for a happy Single Six.

To get stitches even on the back side means your punch has to go through the same every time. It helps to back the piece with a cork or small solid rubber ball cut flat. Hold it behind the piece and punch right into it. That prevents the leather from bending back as the punch goes through. Then practice holding the punch exactly the same for each stitch on a piece of scrap.

Also, I find it helps to run the needles through exactly the same, too. I make sure the first needle to go through a hole is the front one. Then I hold that thread aside at the same angle to start the second needle. It makes a difference to keep the stitch as much the same in all respects every time.

[Rube Burrows]

Nice, that makes for a happy Single Six.

To get stitches even on the back side means your punch has to go through the same every time. It helps to back the piece with a cork or small solid rubber ball cut flat. Hold it behind the piece and punch right into it. That prevents the leather from bending back as the punch goes through. Then practice holding the punch exactly the same for each stitch on a piece of scrap.

Also, I find it helps to run the needles through exactly the same, too. I make sure the first needle to go through a hole is the front one. Then I hold that thread aside at the same angle to start the second needle. It makes a difference to keep the stitch as much the same in all respects every time.

I am getting better with the stitch holes on the back but none where I want them to be yet. Just not having consistency. One will be close and the next all over the place. I will try some of the things you list here on the next one.

Thinking about a pair of Schofield Holsters now.

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[Marshal Will Wingam]

So, we will have more holsters to appreciate. Looking forward to the next ones.

I take it you're having fun, now. 

[1961MJS]

Hi, I remember someone writing that you press the awl thru slowly to see where it goes, then you can bring it back and try it again if it ain't where you want it.  I also have 4 hole punchers from Tandy or Springfield Leather that work well especially if you hold them exactly vertical.

Have fun with it.

[Rube Burrows]

So, we will have more holsters to appreciate. Looking forward to the next ones.

I take it you're having fun, now. 

Yes. I am wanting to make a set for my Schofields and having fun also.

[Rube Burrows]

Hi, I remember someone writing that you press the awl thru slowly to see where it goes, then you can bring it back and try it again if it ain't where you want it.  I also have 4 hole punchers from Tandy or Springfield Leather that work well especially if you hold them exactly vertical.

Have fun with it.

I have a 4 hole also but it wont go through the thicker leather with a welt also. I have been drilling out the final holes and guess I am just now getting my drill to come out exactly where I want on the other side.

[1961MJS]

Hi

Will Ghormley's Lawdog Holster doesn't use a welt, and it is made for Schofields.  The patterns are still available I believe, at least from Will, but possibly elsewhere.  I emailed him and asked since no welt was on the pattern. 

I think I need to make some sort of jig to hold the leather in my Drill press.  I've done o.k. with putting the awl blades (from the awls where you can change the blades) in my drill press and don't turn it on, just use the press part.

Later

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I think I need to make some sort of jig to hold the leather in my Drill press.  I've done o.k. with putting the awl blades (from the awls where you can change the blades) in my drill press and don't turn it on, just use the press part.

This would certainly eliminate any angle error in the way you hold the awl or the piece. When I worked in the saddle shop, Charlie would use his Pfaff saddle machine without thread in it to punch the holes.

[Rube Burrows]

Hi

Will Ghormley's Lawdog Holster doesn't use a welt, and it is made for Schofields.  The patterns are still available I believe, at least from Will, but possibly elsewhere.  I emailed him and asked since no welt was on the pattern. 

I think I need to make some sort of jig to hold the leather in my Drill press.  I've done o.k. with putting the awl blades (from the awls where you can change the blades) in my drill press and don't turn it on, just use the press part.

Later

Sounds like a good idea. I recently got Will Ghormley's HOG holster pack and it has a Schofield holster in there so I may try that one out.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Well done, nothing as gratifying as making your own gun leather, thanks for sharing...



  tEN wOLVES 

[Trailrider]

How are you marking the location for your stitch holes?  I first edge groove both edges of the holster seam.  Starting from the top of each side, I make sure the first holes on each side will match each other. Then I take an overstitcher with the desired wheel (Tandy's has several...I use one that gives about 7-1/2 stitches per inch), and run it down each seam groove, then punch or drill each mark. (I have an industrial sewing machine and hand crank it down each groove instead of using the wheel.)  This way the holes will line up when the leather is folded over for stitching.

[Cliff Fendley]

Good work

[Rube Burrows]

How are you marking the location for your stitch holes?  I first edge groove both edges of the holster seam.  Starting from the top of each side, I make sure the first holes on each side will match each other. Then I take an overstitcher with the desired wheel (Tandy's has several...I use one that gives about 7-1/2 stitches per inch), and run it down each seam groove, then punch or drill each mark. (I have an industrial sewing machine and hand crank it down each groove instead of using the wheel.)  This way the holes will line up when the leather is folded over for stitching.

I have been punching my front holes with the the stitching chisels and gluing. Then taking a hand awl and punching through the next layer or drilling them out with a small drill bit. I need to do it with a stationary drill press rather than by hand though I guess. 

[steve75]

Another way of ensuring your holes line up is marking your stitch spacing on the holster pattern.  When you fold the pattern over mark your stitch line 3/16" from the edge then use the over stitch wheel to run along the stitch line.  This will mark both sides of the pattern.  To be sure use a layout awl and poke through both sides of the pattern.  When you transfer the pattern to the leather transfer the holes with your layout awl.  If you do not have an overstitch wheel you can use wing dividers set to your desired spacing to mark the stitch holes on your pattern.  When make your filler/welt you can transfer the stitch marks to it as well.  If you have done your work diligently it should be easy to run your stitching awl through the hole.  It is extra work, but if you are on a budget it will get you even spaced and uniform stitches on both sides of your project.   

[Rube Burrows]

Another way of ensuring your holes line up is marking your stitch spacing on the holster pattern.  When you fold the pattern over mark your stitch line 3/16" from the edge then use the over stitch wheel to run along the stitch line.  This will mark both sides of the pattern.  To be sure use a layout awl and poke through both sides of the pattern.  When you transfer the pattern to the leather transfer the holes with your layout awl.  If you do not have an overstitch wheel you can use wing dividers set to your desired spacing to mark the stitch holes on your pattern.  When make your filler/welt you can transfer the stitch marks to it as well.  If you have done your work diligently it should be easy to run your stitching awl through the hole.  It is extra work, but if you are on a budget it will get you even spaced and uniform stitches on both sides of your project.   

Thanks. Since this holster I am doing better. I am on my 11th or 12th holster now and I have seen great improvement in my stitching.

[Gunleather]

I first run a stitching grover along the front side of the holster then use a 3 prong lacing nipper to punch the holes. Then I fold it over and mark the start and end holes by pushing an awl through the holes. After that I use the nipper to make the holes on the back side of the holster.