My experience with eyetalian guns is that the cylinder bushing often does not protrude far enough forward to ensure a proper cylinder gap once the gun is put into action. As rounds are fired, and the primers back out, the cylinder is gradually forced forward. If the cylinder bushing is not properly fitted, the front of the cylinder contacts the back of the barrel and the gun binds up in just the way you are describing. The solution is to properly shim the cylinder bushing so that proper cylinder gap is maintained while firing. Bushing shims are available from:
http://michigancenteroutdoors.com/cylinder_shims.html#S9 Strongly suggest you get the multipack as there is wide variation is the slop on these guns. One of my pistols required a .002 shim to operate consistently and one required a .004 shim in order to work. Buy the variety pack.
You can confirm the problem by using a feeler gauge to measure the cylinder gap while you push the cylinder forward as far as you can. You'll probably find there is zero gap when the cylinder is pushed forward in this way. This won't give you any information about the proper shim size, however. Once you've confirmed that the cylinder is, in fact, "bottoming out" on the barrel, you can hold the cylinder forward and try to gauge the remaining gap between the bushing and the frame. It is tough to do this. Trial and error with various shim thicknesses was required for me to arrive at an harmonious solution. That's where the variety pack comes in.
Alternatively, if the pawl is not properly retracting after each cycle, it will begin to drag on the ratchet. Be sure the channel the pawl runs in is perfectly clean (gun must be disassembled for this) and that there is sufficient clearance between the pawl and the three walls of the channel that it runs in.
My money, however, is on problem one -- given my experience with these guns.