1860 conversion problem

[OldCrow]

 Back when I got back into BP I said there were 3 things I had no desire to get into..well I have broken ALL those "no desires" My problem is this..I have a Howell conversion cylinder for my 3 main revolvers, my Walker. 60 army and 58. The only one that is a pain is the 60 army (Pieta).I got this conversion from Taylors (Walker came from there too) and it cycles, rotates just fine, when EMPTY or having fired cartridges in it (45LC) Most of the time however IF I load it it will NOT cock, hammer will not pull back OR I have to "double cock" it meaning that I pull the hammer back, slightly let it forward, I hear a click, then I can full cock it to firing position. When it fires the first round it seems to be fine, I can cock and fire with no problem..Sometimes though I CANNOT get it to pull back to hear that little click. I also discovered I can sometimes push the hammer forward slightly then it will click and cock. I was thinking the problem might be in the bolt or cam area..Like maybe the leg of the bolt is not dropping off the cam..Any ideas?. BP cylinders work just fine also..

[Pettifogger]

The bolt is not resetting.  When the hammer is going forward the leg of the bolt is not going over the top of the cam.  When you push if forward it is moving far enough to reset. You need to remove a TINY bit of material from the bottom of the bolt leg that sits directly over the cam when the hammer is all the way down.

[rifle]

I'd agree with Pettefogger on this one. I'd advise a "tiny bit off" the under side of the end of the bolt leg also but..first check for any burr type things on the edge of then cam or the end of the bolt leg edge that has to get back on top the cam.

I'd wonder how that conversion cylinder fits yer gun too. Ifin the bolt head can go up too high under the cylinder then the other end can be left too low to get on top the can again. What to do? See ifin it seems like someone took some off the top of the bolt head fer some reason like tryying to get the bolt head out of the notch before the hand turns the cylinder.

Anywhooooo.....if the cylinder has too much room under it in that gun takin a lil off the bolt leg would be the best and easiest way to get er runnin again.

If the cylinder worked fine at one time and now doesn't something has changed and the bolt leg can't grow fatter so I bet there's a burr somewhere.

How do you like those R&D conversion cylinders in regards to taking the wedge loose and pullin the barrel each time to load? Slows ya down and gives you some relaxation time type shootin?

Got the wedge thumb pressed in and it comes loose easy?

I've got an R&D fer a coupla Remingtons I have but no Colts.

I bet you Hombre like havin Pettifogger around this place don't cha? Good Hombre with good advise right?

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[Flint]

The R&D cylinders work fine, but mine timed up only in one of my six 1860s.  I mount it in that revolver rather than retuning the others to match, as doing that might screw up their percussion timing.  The cartridge also requires less mainspring strength, so I put a Wolf spring in that revolver.

As to the other comment, yes, the converted Remington is easier to reload.