Uberti Regulator .45LC

[Cold Creek Kid]

when i shoot you cannot pull the hammer back and the cylinder in locked. if you fiddle with it will all work and then its all back to the same thing. i took it to gun smith he said it wasnt out of time but this was before i shot it for first time today and its actin up makin me!

[Abilene]

Well I figured the gunsmiths would have chimed in on this one by now.  Do need more info.  In particular, does it only lock up after firing or does it ever do it with the gun empty?  And if it is only when shooting the gun, does it do it after the first shot or after a number of shots?  What kind of ammo?  Factory or handloads?  If handloads, are the primers backing out from the fired cases and getting drag marks on them?  If it happens when cycling the action on the empty gun, does it only do it sometimes?  And when you "fiddle with it" what are you doing that makes it work again?  

[Cold Creek Kid]

it does it on first shot and yes since you mentioned it it only does it with reloads. i noticed on the back of one shell it had drag markes. i have been shooting american eagles by federal that i found that were cheaper than some  cowboy reloads i have been buying under the name of tennessee catridge. it doesnt ever do it with the gun empty. and when it locked up i just tried to work the hammer and cylinder back and forth and it will finally free itself and will spin half cock but drags just a little.

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[Jefro]

it does it on first shot and yes since you mentioned it it only does it with reloads.

If it's only doing it with reloads, usually this means the primers are backing out and draging, this happens with too light a load. What load are you using?? powder, grains, bullet weight??

Jefro

[Cold Creek Kid]

it just says 200grain RNFP. it doesnt specify the grain of powder but whatever it is the gun is not very loud at all compared to the soft point that i have been shootin. it not listed on the federals either. is that pretty common i shot a box of the same reloads and never had a problem out of em.

[petrinal]

when i shoot you cannot pull the hammer back and the cylinder in locked. if you fiddle with it will all work and then its all back to the same thing. i took it to gun smith he said it wasnt out of time but this was before i shot it for first time today and its actin up makin me!

what is happening to you, in my opinion, is that the barrel/cylinder gap is too small, so it works in dry condition, but when you fire, and the cylinders suffers a slight dilatation, the gun will lock.

it needs to be open a little, and it is very easy...anyone cand do it...with just a file. Filing with care the cone of the barrel, and leave the gap around 0.1/0.15 mm.... which is  0.004 and 0.006 inches respectively...

i had to do in in my Taurus, the barrel cylinder/gap was too tight.

they will tell you that they have to unscrew the barrel and put it in a lathe. It is false. we are talking about opening, not closing the gap...this latter will need to do a lathe operation, to let the barrel screw more..

in your case, a file..will work.

to test the barrel gap, try to put a piece of normal  print (not newspaper as it is a lot thinner) paper between cylinder and barrel..the gun should operate..and that is the right measure. Normal print paper is around 0,1 mm...(0.004 ")

change your gunsmith.




above my TAURUS, with a now good gap of around 0,1 mm or 0.004 ".  As it came from factory, gun will not lock in dry firing but would do when firing...either smokless or BP. I had to modify it.


below, a UBERTI 1858...that shows the adjustment, this time made in factory...with a file..to get the right barrel gap..



your problem migth be another but i think it might be this one.



all the best

[Big T]

Are you shooting Blackpowder in it ? if so here is what i had happen to me , I have a 44 colt MR conversion that did the same thing , greese the end of the cylender , with BP it make the end of the cyl gritty if its got lube it dont drag as much I thought it was the cyl gap at first as well an nearly ruined the gun before i caught it ,t

[petrinal]

in fact, if the gap is around 0,1 mm or 004", it MUST work with BLACK POWDER. It is  still a tight gap....many SW´s and COLTS of modern manufacturing are around 0,15 mm  or 006"like my outdoorsman in brand new condition or my Diamondback or some modern SAA´s.

as  a matter of fact, I shoot only BP in my 1873´s, and with a right gap, the revolver must shoot many rounds, at least 4 or 5 cylinders, before giving any trouble, even with the dirties BP.

i did correct the gap problem in my Taurus as just 1 or 2 shots would drag the cylinder, and if the gap is tight, is more a problem or dillatation (in a 1873) than fouling.

so any time we encounter this problem in a revolver, 99% or possiblites that it is a too tigh gap or cylinder touching barrel in some point which is quite common in open tops.

filing must be done with care, with a medium/fine file, not a coarse one.


this TAURUS as i said gave me  exactly the same troubles with cylinder rotation......now, with a gap UNDER INDUSTRY STANDARDS, of around 004, after some careful filing, you can shoot almost all day BP loads...and i insist, the gap is smaller than most brand new SW´s.



The picture was taken first time i shot it...the gun shot terribly high as i came from the previous owner but the last four shots were a lot closer..

at 25 meters, one hand and 230 grain bullet with 23 grains of 3F black powder...more or less, aceptable accuracy. Not great but ok.

i now longer shoot this gun, i decided to give it "collector status", as it is  one of the very few in EUROPE. Common in USA, hard to find here.


all the best