1861 Shoulder Stock Screws

[Patrick Henry Brown]

I know this has been addressed somewhere before, but I'll ask again. I have an Uberti 1861 that was manufactured in 2004 or so. The shoulder stock screws stick out way to far for my comfort. I also have an Uberti 1861 made in the 1970's that have screws that are much less obstructive to my grip. I ordered a set of shoulder stock screws from Dixie. They are like the ones on the 1970's model and would be perfect, but are threaded differently than the current Uberti production. Can anyone tell me the thread size on the Dixie screws so I can rethread the frame on the 2004 model and use the new Dixie screws? Help!

[Flint]

Not sure when or why they changed it, but on my Ubertis, the thread matches the nipple thread, which would make it a #12-28.
A screw of that pitch can be made (if it fits your particular revolver) or the screw heads you have can be cut down lower, as long as you leave enough slot to allow the screwdriver to get it in or out.

Making a plug from a cut down nipple might give you a handy oil hole.............

[pony express]

I would look at modifying the screw heads first, before changing the threads in the frame. (Going on the theory of"mess with the cheapest part first")

Also, maybe check with VTI, see if they have the screws that you prefer.

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[St. George]

You can always reduce the screw heads - either from the top - or from the bottom, if you want to keep the blueing intact - then shorten the shank.

If you go that route - use a 'safe-edge' file and be patient.

Keep in mind the depth of the slot.

You 'might' try a supplier of machine bolts, too - look for dome-headed ones and get out your Cold Blue.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Fingers McGee]

I would look at modifying the screw heads first, before changing the threads in the frame. (Going on the theory of"mess with the cheapest part first")

Sage advice.  

Also, maybe check with VTI, see if they have the screws that you prefer.

My experience with screws from Dixie is they don't always work where you want them to.  Ordering Uberti screws from VTI or Taylor's would be the safest way to go IMHO.  

[Patrick Henry Brown]

Why would you expect the screws from Taylor's or VTI to be any different than the ones already on the 2004 Uberti from the factory? I have the Dixie screws in hand. I just need some idea what thread size they probably are. I suspect metric, but do not have access right now to a micrometer.

[Flint]

The only shoulderstock screws I ever got from DGW were threaded for the original Colt, not the Italian.  So Preacher may have gotten those, and for sure, they won't fit.  As Fingers suggested, VTI, or Taylors or Cimarron...  The only handle the Italian parts.  Also, the Uberti and the Pietta screws may well be different.

[Fingers McGee]

The only shoulderstock screws I ever got from DGW were threaded for the original Colt, not the Italian.  So Preacher may have gotten those, and for sure, they won't fit.  As Fingers suggested, VTI, or Taylors or Cimarron...  The only handle the Italian parts.  Also, the Uberti and the Pietta screws may well be different.

Uberti and Pietta threads are different.  Screw diameter is the same; but with different thread pitch.  The folks at VTI are very helpful.  If you called them & explained what you are looking for, they might be able to get you the right screws.  Failing that, filing down the too tall screws, recutting the slot, and a little cold blue might be in order.

FM

[Hell-Er High Water]

Here is what I did to solve the problem.  In my lathe, I turned the screw head down to the diameter of the screw itself.  I then cut a new slot in the threaded end of the screw with a dremel.  I cut the head height down a little at a time until it was flush with the outside of the frame when the screw was threaded in.  With a screw driver, you can reach in through the screw hole in the thin side of the frame to reach the new slot in the screw in the thick side.  The thin side screrw can be reached from the opening in the bottom of the frame.  I then touched up what was the head end with a little cold blue and used Locktite when I installed the modified screws.  You end up with what looks like just the end of another screw that is flush with the outside of the frame.  No more projections to cut into your hand.

HHW

[Montana Slim]

Here is what I did to solve the problem.  In my lathe, I turned the screw head down to the diameter of the screw itself.  I then cut a new slot in the threaded end of the screw with a dremel.  I cut the head height down a little at a time until it was flush with the outside of the frame when the screw was threaded in.  With a screw driver, you can reach in through the screw hole in the thin side of the frame to reach the new slot in the screw in the thick side.  The thin side screrw can be reached from the opening in the bottom of the frame.  I then touched up what was the head end with a little cold blue and used Locktite when I installed the modified screws.  You end up with what looks like just the end of another screw that is flush with the outside of the frame.  No more projections to cut into your hand.

HHW

I did a similar job on all my SS Screws using a poor-man;s Lathe (3/8" variable-speed, corded drill).
If one is not adventuresome, just round-em off on the edges & slim the height, without removing all of the screw slot.

Regards,
Slim