Gap in latch when closed

[Captain Hubert Arzhel]

I just got a used Uberti Schofield in that I bought off the internet.  Its in great shape, but I've noticed a gap between where the latch and the barrel asembly met up when the gun is closed.

Now is the gun safe to shoot?  Also who can I send the gun to to have this fixed?  Ubert?  Navy Arms?

Here are some photos:

[Flint]

Is it tight?  If there is no movement when you wiggle the revolver, barrel in one hand and the frame in the other, it's probably OK.  Make sure the hinge screw is tight, so it doesn't give you a false reading for tightness.

Check to see if there are any burrs, or built up crud in the latch where the tooth engages.  Make sure there are no burrs, or debris in the frame cut in front of the latch, keeping it from going all the way forward.

Someone who may have taken the latch out may have dinged the frame cut or latch so it won't close all the way.  Is the spring still pushing in that position?   Some people remove the hammer block safety inside, and may have reassembled it with clumsily, and dinged something.

When the hammer is in the fired position, it prevents the latch from opening, make sure it still does.

If you're afraid to remove the sideplate and look inside, have a gunsmith do it and check the mating parts.  The latch must be removed to allow the sideplate to be removed.  Getting the latch back on is harder than getting it off.  The latch spring must be engaged in its notch while moving the latch back into position, hold it in place and re-insert the screw.

There is also a trick to removing the sideplate.  DO NOT PRY IT!   With the screws removed, rap the frame on the sideplate side with a leather or wooden mallet, the sideplate willl pop up.

Replace it carefully, don't damage the SHARP edges.

[Hell-Er High Water]

Captain,

I have three Navy Arms, Uberti Schofields and none of them have the gap that you show in your photos.  Two of them are the Wells Fargo models in 45 Colt and have several thousand rounds each through them.  The other is a full length miliatary model in 45 Colt and it has very few rounds through it.  All three of the "Stud Latches" latch up tight against the "Barrel Blocks" with no apparant gap.

It looks from your photos that the Barrel Block may not be down all the way on the top strap.  The Barrel Block is the piece with two transverse screws through it and the the top strap.  It keeps the cylinder from coming out and provides the catch on the barrel assembly that the Stud Latch engages.  It looks like there is a gap between the bottom of it and the barrel top strap unless the light is playing tricks in the photos.  None of my revolvers have a gap in this area.  If you open the revolver and loosen the screws, try pushing the Barrel Block down tight against the barrel.  You may also find that there is dirt or burrs in this area that need cleaning.

These are just my observations from several years of Schofield shooting and may get you going in the right direction.

Let us know what you find.

HHW

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[Flint]

Along with Hell-Er High Water's remarks, the barrel block was a part I didn't mention in my comments, and as a practice, whenever I've had the thing loosened to remove the cylinder, I always leave it loose until I close the action after reassembling everything.  After it's closed, make sure everything is in position, THEN tighten the block screws.

As Hell-Er mentioned, that could be your problem.

[Captain Hubert Arzhel]

Thanks guys.  You guys were right on the money!

Whoever put it back together last did not do it while having the barrel block and the stub latch fiting together.  I took it apart and then matched those part together and then tightened all the screws back up.  Almost perfect latch together now!

I notice compared to my other Schofield that the hammer pull is abit stiffer.  I think the cylinder is having friction contact with something.  Any sugestions?

Thanks!

[Pedro]

Kick it out back to vendor!

[Flint]

Make sure it's lubed, and after cycling and shooting, look for rub marks.  It doesn't take a lot of resistance to show up in cocking effort, as the hand/pawl is pretty close to center and the cylinder is large.

Check the feel of the mainspring against your other Schofield, it could be the spring or the tension screw.

Make sure the cylinder has enough endshake not to be clamped in the frame when it's closed. (only a few thousanths required).  See that the cylinder spins freely when the barrel assembly is tipped up and away from the frame.

[Silver_Rings]

Make sure the cylinder pin is screwed in all the way.

SR