'The Old Yellow Slicker'...

[St. George]

The Old Yellow Slicker

How dear to my heart was that old yellow slicker,
   I carried 'way back in my cowpunchin' days;
'Twas stiff as a board, but I wasn't a kicker
   When it was a-rainin' an' me huntin' strays.
I carried it tied at the back of my saddle,
   All ready for blizzard or windstorm or rain,
An' 'twas my salvation when I had to straddle
   My bronc' an' lope out on the mud-spattered plain.
        That old yellow slicker,
        That spacious old slicker,
   I carried on many a round-up campaign!

That old yellow slicker! 'Twas big and 'twas roomy;
   It sure kept me dry when the rain trickled down;
I wore it on night-herd with skies black and gloomy,
   It covered me well from my feet to my crown.
No matter how sloppy or muddy or lowery;
   No matter how cold or unpleasant the storm,
No matter how blusterin', gusty or showery,
   That old yellow slicker I wore kept me warm!
        That ill-fittin' slicker,
        That fish-oil-soaked slicker,
   Its mission it never yet failed to perform.

That old yellow slicker which I have defended
   Hangs there in the bunkhouse agin the log wall;
Its mission's fulfilled, an' its range life is ended--
   No more do the herds on the cattle-trail call.
But sometimes I dream in the dim summer gloamin',
   An' there in the embers which flicker an' change,
I catch a faint glimpse of the herds that were roamin',
  An' think of that slicker I wore on the range.
        That battered old slicker,
        That old yellow slicker,
   A cattle-day relic I'll never exchange!

From 'Trail Dust of a Maverick', 1914 - E.A. Brininstool

That 'Old Yellow Slicker' is a most valuable piece of gear - and when you're creating any sort of Impression that deals with the trail-driving days, cowboying, or outdoor work - you need one...

Originals were soaked in an aromatic oil derived from fish - for the waterproofing/water repelling properties.

They also could be somewhat flammable...

Today - Wyoming traders makes a helluva nice example, and they're available at a couple of places:

'The Fort' - Lincoln, NE - 1-877-907-3678 X199 (toll-free) - ask for Terry Lane or Glen Carman

'Tonto Rim Trading Co.' - Seymour, IN - 1-800-242-HATS - (toll-free) ask for Denny Shewell

'River Junction Trade Co.' - 1-319-873-2387 - ask for Jim Boecke

I'm certain that there are more - but finding them is up to you.

When you're sizing - remember that you'll most likely be wearing extra clothing and order appropriately.

These are 'slickers' - the unlined Gore-Tex of the open range - and like that fine product, they're most definitely not warm unless you have something on underneath that helps the process (that's why God invented wool) - but they do ward off rain and wind admirably, and they enhance your Impression authentically.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Fox Creek Kid]

If I'm not mistaken, the "slickers" by Fish weren't available until the mid 1880's. For those of you (like myself  ) who portray the post Civil War decade when the West was REALLY wild you'll need a Talma. 

http://www.jarnaginco.com/raingear.htm

[ML Roak]

Fox Creek,
I was going to post something nasty and vile about you on this thread, but I'm just too darned tired to do it (2 Hrs till bed)
See ya,
ML

[Advertising]

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

Fellows,

This is what I know about yellow pommel slickers, compliments of "I See by Your Outfit" by T. Lindmier & S. Mount and the following info is taken from that book (pages 70-72).

'Fish Brand' pommel slickers of the natural yellow color were available for sale from Abner J. Tower in the Fall of 1881 though he also made slickers in black rubber coated canvas. Montgomery Ward carried these in their 1885 catalog and in 1886 carried a similar type of pommel slicker under the name of Duck brand yellow oil clothing. Initial model had a regular fall-down collar. By 1885 a red wool collar appeared on the Fish brand and post 1911 types had tan corduroy collars. Pre-1900 slickers had die-cast zinc buttons, post-1911 had brass stud buttons. Both types of slickers are available from River Junction (so it is a good idea to call them and specify which one you want to buy). Both types are good quality though plan on replacing the buttons. I have one of each and the later type with tan collar is about the same as the earlier type but is a bit longer and has more material to configure the coat around a saddle and hence more buttons.

Endstate: If you want a slicker that is period-correct for pre-1880s it might be best to go with something made of vulcanized rubber or painted canvas, either make a pommel slicker of it or use an old army groundcloth or poncho. Or yo can make your own slicker. There was a source for vulcanized rubber canvas material I knew of from a few years ago and if I can find it again i will post it to this thread. You can also paint canvas with period waterproofing paint and make a coat from that. Here is a great recipe for period waterproofing I have used with excellent results. Also, when dry the painted canvas is shiny, not drab - the key is to have the tightest weave of canvas you can buy and ensure the rosin & beeswax are completely mixed with the linseed oil (this requires mixing it over heat):

Water Proof Solution, or Paint, for Awnings, etc (pg 576 Dr Chase's Recipe Book and Household Physician, 3rd edition 1888)
"Put 1 oz. each of rosin and beeswax, to each pint of linseed oil needed. Apply 1 to 3 coats as you desire"
In order to make the above recipe black in color I add pure powdered carbon (aka lamp black or bone black). Be sure to keep this nifty paint recipe away from open flames after it is mixed, otherwise the color is yellowish in nature. While mixing it over heat do so in a fire pit or other safe area OUTSIDE OF YOUR HOME WITH A FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEAR BY as the ingredients of this paint are flammable and while mixing you might get close to flashpoint. If you need to cut the paint after it is mixed and cooled try pure spirits of gum turpentine as this works well but use very sparinngly as it can ruin the waterproofing qualities of the paint. Avoid adding japan drying chemicals - the paint will dry well enough without this additive in warm weather and open air and be usable in about a week. The blacking in my personal experience does not rub off and is fast in the paint when applied to the canvas.

Gen Jackson was killed on that dark, rainy night in 1863 while wearing a rain coat which looks to be of painted, not vulcanized canvas. An excellent color photo of this rain coat is on pg 15 of "Rebels & Yankees: The commanders of the Civil War" by W. C. Davis and is detailed enough to make a reasonable though not exact facsimile of one. Perhaps you can try your hand at making one, but make the coat of regular white untreated canvas then when it is sewn together paint the finished item. Sewing canvas treated with the paint recipe above would get ugly.

YMH&OS,

Monterrey J. Brass

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

"He was old, he was vile and no stranger to vice,
....  Google "Madeira M'Dear"  for the old Flanders & Swann classic

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

"...I deny that 'excellent - admirably done' are the items and final aim of virtue"

M. de Montaigne

[James Hunt]

Good post brass, great information. While I look pretty cool in my yellow slkicker with red flannel collar, I am stuck using it for CMS events only, as a hunter/scout of the 1872 - 78 period I use my old army poncho both for inclimate moments and as a ground cloth beneanth my blanket.

[St. George]

And that Army poncho would've been both the least expensive piece of gear and the most common in those post-war years, soldiers in all eras tending to hang on to particularly 'useful' items of issue upon their mustering out.

As a scout - you'd've been able to draw one from Quartermaster stock.

As to creating your own - that's certainly an option - but when the written instructions begin with having a fire extinguisher near by the fire pit - don't they also have the 'unspoken' instructions to:  'First - find a crone and a cauldron...'?

Nonetheless - the above-mentioned yellow slicker that's currently available is a worthwhile piece of gear to add to your outfit, and since it's Christmastime, perhaps someone else could probably be persuaded to do the adding...

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[royal barnes]

When I purchased my slicker from River Junction they only carried the one with the tan collar. I spoke with Mr. Boecke(SP) on the phone and asked him about the collar material based on what I had read in "I SEE BY YOUR OUTFIT". He stated that the surviving example in his collection dated to before 1900 and had a tan collar. The buttons on the tan collared one are correct for the pre-1900 coat. I have never seen a photo that allowed me to tell what color the collar was. The one slicker I actually saw had a dark blue wool collar. Which is right? I don't know since I wasn't there to wear any of them. Wish I had been!

[St. George]

Red wool - by 1885 through 1911 - Tan cord afterwards.

If you want the earlier version - replacing the collar's pretty easy to do, and in inclement weather - wool stays warm, even when wet.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Grizzle Bear]

All useful and interesting information, however:

Can anybody tell me how to get the damn thing to "unstick" to itself?  I foolishly rolled my slicker up and discovered when I wanted to use it it had pretty well fused itself into a solid mass.  I used a heat gun to slowly unroll the thing with minimal damage, and tried spraying it with "Armor-All."  That helped for a while, but it still wants to stick to itself, even if hung on a hanger.  Any suggestions?

Grizzle Bear

[River City John]

  Bear grease.

[Delmonico]

When new and folded in the package they are stuck together but just shake out.  I would guess that they should not be stored in the sun.  I'll see what I can find out.

[St. George]

Cornstarch or a Talcum Powder.

Either are 'dry' and stay that way.

The Army had that problem with the old Air Mattress - fondly remembered by a different name - and the inside of the damned things would adhere.

The 'fix' was to put some cornstarch or talc into it - fully-inflate it - and shake vigorously to coat the interior.

Worked great, and you didn't need very much.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Wild Ben Raymond]

Armor All works well to keep it from sticking together. I put it on frist thing when I got it & have had no problems, but even still I don't roll it up tight when I'm finished wearing it. If I do happen to wear it in the rain after I hang dry it, I give it another coat of Armor All just to be on the save side. WBR

[James Hunt]

Can anyone document the earliest use of armor all?  Just kidding, just kidding 

My "pc" "yellow slicker" was purchased from a shop that made all their own stuff in South Pass Wy 15 years ago when the lady was going out of business. I purchased one for my daughter from River City at the last convention and it seems nearly identical to mine except with the tan collar and buttons. I seldom use mine for everyday use as it seems a bit fragile, when not used I just hang it up in a cool envrironment. However, I do pack it a couple times a year on horseback in the summer, rolled up and tied behind my saddle where it has always stayed for the entire day (it only rains when I forget the thing). On some of those days it has turned out very sunny and hot. At the end of the day it seems to be somewhat sticky but shakes out fine. I have never used anything on it. However, I wonder how they held up in the 19th century if used for half a year out in the open. I am not sure what mine is actually coated with, it seems exactly like the one I bought for my daughter, are these things actually coated with fish oil? or has some other "modern" substance been used? They do look great - certainly much better than a modern rubber slicker or God forbid an "Australian" duster. (Thought I'd irritate the "Australian they mighta' had'em crowd" there, no slam intended though  )

[St. George]

From my understanding - the coating's an acrylic latex - over a cotton fabric that's been computer color-matched to the original.

Any more information than that - you'll have to ask those guys I'd mentioned.

Original fish-oil impregnated slickers would've been somewhat stiff and even 'aromatic' - but they'd unfold - and like the Army's modern-day poncho - they would benefit from a thorough hanging out.

I hang my own in a dark area, and all the wrinkling and creasing falls out after a bit - just as it will when worn.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Delmonico]

OK, I just got off the phone with the Ramrod at Wyoming Trade Company, (As Col. Potter said, love a man that answers his own phone.)  He said the new slickers they are making should not have a lot of trouble sticking together, but do try not to store them in a hot place.  Some of the older ones that were made before did have this problem a lot. They're blend of the acrylic latex should be a lot better than the older blends because they addressed this problem when researching before production.  He said the corn starch/talcum powder sounds like a good idea and he will add it to the care insturtions on the next production run.

OK I want some feed back and some help here, they are going to most likely go into the oil skin slickers buisness to compete with the Aussies.  What he is interested in is any information on making a "Period Correct" oil skin slicker, with of course buttons not snaps.  I'm going to do some searching as well as him, but does anyone have any information as to what they looked like and colors?  He said one styled after the Fish but oil skin would be very easy, but does need to know what color or colors.

[Silver Creek Slim]

Great info, pards.

Slim

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

Fellows,

Something of interest as detailed by Philip A. Rawlins (who spent Summers as a cow boy on his fathers large Montana ranch) from his personal reminisces. Though not described as a 'slicker' as such, still insightful information and I believe germaine to this thread:

"The overcoat was of canvas, light brown in color, with skirts to the knee, was blanket lined, and, to make it wholly windproof, commonly received an exterior coat of paint..."

page 112, "The Cowboy: An Unconventional History of Civilization on the Old-Time Cattle Range" (1922)

YMH&OS,

Monterrey J. Brass