When a gun has a base pin jumping problem, it has a base pin to latch fit problem. Personally I've never had to use an aftermarket pin in any of my numerous single actions and consider it a waste of money.
Properly fitting the base pin is just another item on my tuning checklist for any acquired SA, new or used. If the latch doesn't keep the pin from moving forward under recoil, here's the test for proper fit. I never compensate for poor fit with heavier springs or oversize base pins.
Testing for proper fit:
Remove the base pin and cyl. Make sure the two latch halves are tightened.
Push the latch and release it, notice if it returns all the way and with no stickiness.
Make a pencil mark on the side of the latch button even with the frame when in the released position.
Look thru the base pin hole; can you see the latch protruding into the pin hole? If it only protrudes slightly, the latch hole in the right side of the frame is not drilled deep enough.
Now install the base pin and release the latch. Does the latch return to the same position as w/o the pin installed, so that you can see the full pencil mark on the button. If not, the latch is not completely engaging the groove in the base pin. The base pin groove must be deepened. Chuck pin in a power drill and deepen with a rat tail file of matching diameter to the groove. Cover the file with 400 to 600 grit paper and polish the groove. Do this until the latch releases all the way out with pin installed.