1851 confederate navy revolver

[greenwood county cowboy]

i want to start in black powder shooting but i dont know what a good gun is. an 1851 confederate navy revolver has caught my eye and is for sale at cabelas for bout $139. good gun?

[St. George]

You might want to buy a steel framed piece.

The brass is pretty - but it 'can' stretch over time and use.

Scouts Out!

[Noz]

If you like the open top Colts replicas but have a large hand then the 1860 might be a better fit for you. I have fairly large hands and the 1851 grip is too small for me.

[Advertising]

[Marshal Deadwood]

Ubertis are not the only 'good' chocies..but one is might safer with the Uberti from a historical (and usually a quality) stand.
Taylors and Co. and Cimarron Arms, offer fine selections of Ubertis.

The little bit extra spent will most likely be appreciate in the future.

Personally, I perfer the 1860Army ,,,,the 'army' grip is more to my likeing since I have catcher mitt size hands. Im always fidgeting with the Navy grips....just can not get comfortable with them.

But all models of 'Colt' open top and percussion revolvers are quite handsome. My favorite revolvers.

Marshal Deadwood

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

$139 is a persuasive price for a handgun, but I strongly recommend you spend the extra money for a steel frame. It is worth it.

As far as the grip size is concerned, the 1860 Army grip is roughly 1/4" longer than the 1851 Navy grip. I have big hands too, but I have no trouble with a standard 1851 Navy grip, which happens to be the same as the SAA grip. If that grip is too small, you are probably trying to cram your entire hand onto the grip. The Navy style grip usually works better if you don't try to cram your entire hand onto the grip. Curl your pinky underneath the grip. The added advantage of holding a revolver that way is the trigger guard is less likey to smack the knuckle of your middle finger in recoil.

[Mick Archer]

  Howdy Pards!

  Defining "good" can be a personal thing, IMHO.

  "Good" what?   Purchase price?  Perceived value received for dollar spent?  Fit, finish , mechanical  functioning?  Longevity and dependability?  Low versus high maintenance?  Accuracy?   Historical correctness in terms of faithfulness to the original?  Etc., etc.

  My very first revolver was a brass framed CS "Griswold and Gunnsion."   I did not "know much" and the deciding factor was that it was the only C & B non-modern gun in the shop, and the price was what a poor college kid could afford.    

   I have "small hands" and favor the Colt Navy's and SAA, as well as the very early Navy gripped M1860 Army.  However, "historically" one cannot always pick-and-choose so my current Colt M1860 Army is the common version with the "Army" grips."

  Mick Archer

 -Quality is remembered long after the purchase price is forgotten.

[Justice Johnson]

Howdy, I would certainly agree with the others that have suggested spending a little more and getting the steel frame version. also would highly recommend getting a set of treso nipples.

regards and welcome to the darkside

[greenwood county cowboy]

well here is one from cabelas thats bout $300 but its nickel and gold...1851... idont know if this one is brass but it didnt say anyhing about it being brass.

[Justice Johnson]

The '51 in your pic is a steel frame version, i had a chance to handle this model a few years back, the nickle finish looked good, but i have no clue what the "gold" finish on the cylinder, hammer and trigger is, or how weel it would wear in actual CAS use.

Cabela's has a few other options on their web site that are steel framed, a .36 and a .44 civilian model and a .44 sheriff model.

hope this helps

regards

[greenwood county cowboy]

what are treso nipples are they differnt then the ones that already come with gun
do i have to get another cyldner with them

[Singing Bear]

what are treso nipples are they differnt then the ones that already come with gun
do i have to get another cyldner with them

Stock nipples tend to be inconsistent in size and flash hole diameter.  One size cap may not fit all 6 nipples and the larger flash holes tend to allow more escaping gases to escape from the rear blowing cap fragments into the action.  Tresos or Thunderridge stainless nipples are more uniform and have smaller flash holes.  One size cap fits all and the smaller flash hole eliminates the blow back problem.
www.thunder-ridge-muzzleloading.com   

[Montana Slim]

My preference is toward steel-framed.......but, I have seen brass-framed Navys in the true Navy caliber of .36 stand up to plenty of use.
Don't get a .44 Navy w/Brass Frame!

As far as the cones, I've tweaked the ones that came with the gun(s) to make them work reliably.

Slim

[Ransom Gaer]

greenwood county cowboy,

As Singing Bear said the Treso Nipples are more consistant.  All but one of my c&b revolvers has them.  The one that doesn't has the Thunderridge brand ones.  Those are good too.  I definitely recommend either.

You do not need another cylinder unless you want to get another.

Ransom Gaer

[65bsaA65]

I have a Navy Arms 51 Navy brass framed revolver, that I've owned for 15 years (man. by Pietta), that has a lot of rounds thru it.  It locks up as tight today as it did the day I bought it.  Mind you, I load it a bit lighter than I do my steel frame stuff (15 grs.of bp or the equiv. load of pyrodex p behind a round ball), and I've had more trouble with my old ASP steel frame navy 51.  Course with the ASP I've loaded with all the powder I could get into it; including compressing a chamber full; then adding the ball and compressing it again to get cylinder-to-barrel clearance.  If you like the looks of a brass-frame and can keep the loading light, by all means get one.  I love the way they look; let the brass age naturally and don't polish and you get that great patina.  The best bet is to get a brass-framer and a steel frame at the same time;  that way you have a Con. Navy for the style points and a steel framer for warthog loads.  Definitely DO NOTget one in .44 cal. as it will  loosen up before you get tired of shooting it.  Rock steady.

[Major 2]

If you watch the ads, you'll find a good buy in a used steel 51 Navy...and get a 36 cal. Navy were never original offered in 44.
But if new is your preference, then get steel (as has been memtioned) maybe one day you will want to get a conversion Cyl.
Cabella's runs sales & check Dixie also.... You won't be sorry with a Cimarron or Taylor Uberti but you'll pay abit more....

Once you get your Navy come join us in Storm. 

I've been shooting them for 30 + years, it never get old.

[greenwood county cowboy]

thanks for the information...will a .36 caliber big enough to kill a deer

[Cuts Crooked]

thanks for the information...will a .36 caliber big enough to kill a deer

Uh, yeah it will...but then so will a .22 Long Rifle.

Bottom line, I don't recommend it! Not enough power for consistant penetration to the vitals. I once took a buck with a .44 Cap & Ball pistol from about ten paces, perfect head shot. That buck went down like he was poleaxed, but the ball didn't even exit the skull. That's not powerfull enough! A .36 would be even worse.

[Singing Bear]

thanks for the information...will a .36 caliber big enough to kill a deer

You may want to opt for a Ruger c&b for hunting.  Bigger bore, bigger charge of powder.

Sent you a PM.

[greenwood county cowboy]

well what if it has a little brass on it like a trigger guard
??

[Mason Stillwell]

Yep I agree . Brass frames scratch, stretch  and are usally just wall hangers or boat anchors.

YEA RIGHT

I have 4 that I have been shooting for a very long time. Keep the charge down at 15 to 18 gr and a roundball and let er rip

Mason