one part Tin to 6 parts lead ??

Started by Slamfire, May 08, 2020, 10:31:33 AM

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Slamfire

 While I have been looking up old ( 1870-1900 ) ammo labels & ammo box for Win. lever actions ,,I noticed on 45-60 ,,-40-72 ,, 40-60's and others ,, this is printed on one side of some of the boxes." when reloading , use 1 part tin to 6 parts lead " keep the lead and moulds very hot . Does that seem like a lot of Tin compared to what we use today ? Kind of say's they weren't shooting pure lead !

  Rainy day question.

  coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.

Dave T

Factory ammo was never pure lead projectiles. I would be inclined to think that might be a misprint and they meant 1-16 tin to lead, which has been a popular alloy, particularly with the advent of smokeless powder.

YMMV,
Dave

Slamfire

 Dave T ,, found a better picture of a ammo box ,, YUP !  1-16 ,,  also tells which size primer to use .

  coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.


 

Black River Smith

Slamfire,

You found the correct answer and Dave T gave you the right info.

I have always tried to use the 'old-time alloy mix' for the old caliber bullets.  I finally found the better source for this info in the Lyman #39 Reloading Manual from 1953.  In it they have the reprint of a very early Ideal reloading manual they list just about every 'old' popular caliber and it alloy mix.

Very good reference to have if you like that sort of info, like I do.
Black River Smith

August

I use as much tin as it takes to get the mould filled out.  I think of tin as a "lubricant" that allows the lead to take the form of the mould.   I don't use any more than that 'cause it's expensive.   I have no idea what the ratio might be.

Slamfire

Well fellers i'm back ,, more info., BRS,, yes sir I enjoy history,, just found a original box of 44-40 for 1873 win. ( on internet ) , a ( green ) label in the inside lid  " use only Winchester # 1 primers ",, and list 3-4 powders to use ,and " use only pure lead " lube w/ Japan wax or Tallow ".

Neat stuff  8) . I shoot 10-13 BHN in both my 40-60 & 44-40 ( NO hot loads ).

coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.

greyhawk

Quote from: August on May 08, 2020, 04:44:11 PM
I use as much tin as it takes to get the mould filled out.  I think of tin as a "lubricant" that allows the lead to take the form of the mould.   I don't use any more than that 'cause it's expensive.   I have no idea what the ratio might be.

I am with August .......tin is expensive

Dirty Dick

I have several hundred pounds of wheelweight metal in ingots, no idea of the Brinnell number, getting excellent fill out with the metal hot, no extra tin,  using Kroil for .44-40 and .45 Colt.
NRA Life, CSSA, RCA,

Slamfire

 I don't think I use to much tin in my mix ,, just found 10 # of solder ( i'm not a hoarder,, i'm not a hoarder ,, repeat ) I didn't know was in my unused supply ( pile ,, i'm not a hoarder ) . I use pencils  to test all my lead's ,, before mixing ,, "so far so good ", I mould a few and test w/ pencil ,, ( I think they get a little harder w/ age ) and I try to test to the softer side , if all is good I cast ,, if not add to the mix,, I try to write down how & what I mixed ,, but I use a lot of range lead & WW ,, ( i'm not a hoarder ). Anyway just a rainy day subject.

  coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.

greyhawk

Quote from: Slamfire on May 09, 2020, 11:16:29 AM
I don't think I use to much tin in my mix ,, just found 10 # of solder ( i'm not a hoarder,, i'm not a hoarder ,, repeat ) I didn't know was in my unused supply ( pile ,, i'm not a hoarder ) . I use pencils  to test all my lead's ,, before mixing ,, "so far so good ", I mould a few and test w/ pencil ,, ( I think they get a little harder w/ age ) and I try to test to the softer side , if all is good I cast ,, if not add to the mix,, I try to write down how & what I mixed ,, but I use a lot of range lead & WW ,, ( i'm not a hoarder ). Anyway just a rainy day subject.

  coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.

Whats your pass fail pencil grades ?

Slamfire

Hey greyhawk ,, if my mix goes over " B " , back in mix ,, add pure lead , ( may be a little solder ) HB is to hard for me. B3-10 BHN ,, B2 -11-13 BHN . So far no leading ( use home brew lube ). Most of the range lead i'v been using is penciling at about 10-12 BHN ,, I know penciling is a guest-a-mate,, but so far it's working for me .I'm not a bench shooter ( per say ) , I weight and separate & shoot separate groups . I Don't press hard on my testing , just keep a sq.( flat ) edge. Hope this helps.




   coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.

greyhawk

Quote from: Slamfire on May 10, 2020, 12:06:25 PM
Hey greyhawk ,, if my mix goes over " B " , back in mix ,, add pure lead , ( may be a little solder ) HB is to hard for me. B3-10 BHN ,, B2 -11-13 BHN . So far no leading ( use home brew lube ). Most of the range lead i'v been using is penciling at about 10-12 BHN ,, I know penciling is a guest-a-mate,, but so far it's working for me .I'm not a bench shooter ( per say ) , I weight and separate & shoot separate groups . I Don't press hard on my testing , just keep a sq.( flat ) edge. Hope this helps.

Thanks!
what I am doing is not much different - didnt have a clue about the numbers to go with it though - I am maybe a bit harder - between B and HB - I bought a lot of lead cheap that was boolit alloy and am scarcer on pure lead so hoarding the pure stuff for round ball as much as I can. I have a biggish cast iron pot holds about 40 pounds of mix and I always keep a couple sample chunks to compare when I mix a new batch. That B-HB mix is giving good expansion in soft dirt at 100 yards where the boolit alloy (Lyman no 2 I guess) was not. 


   coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.

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