1858 Remington Problem

Started by Bryan Austin, July 26, 2008, 08:37:32 AM

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Bryan Austin

Howdy Pards,

I got this 1858 from a pard and discovered this problem. The hammer has a tad bit of play in it and it leans to the left. This causes it to hit the frame when fired (which I have not done yet) The frame has a little damage from this. I have yet to mic the gap but its small, about the size (little smaller) than a piece of photo paper. The hammer face was indented with the impression of the nipple as well as causing it to mushroom out. The nipples also look to be mushroomed out a little. I filed the sides of the hammer back until I can get a replacement. What I'd like to know is if this is typical wear from about 100 rounds fired through it or if it looks more like dry firing? Revolver was advertised as 95%.

I'd like to keep it, was just wondering what the typical wear is like. How often do you replace the hammer and nipples and what can I do to fix the hammers side play?

First photo, full cock, shows the hammer offset to the left.




The second photo is from the top and again shows offset hammer, half cock.



Thanks,
SJ

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Bull Schmitt

The problem with the hammer is not typical. The hole in the hammer may be at a slight angle causing the problem. A replacement hammer may be needed. A lot of the C&B revolver replicas have their nipples and hammer faces deformed from firing. This is not from just dry firing but simply normal usage. The theory is that the hammer should not hit the nipple at all but come close enough to cause the cap to fire. Deformed nipples can be salvaged by chucking them in an electric drill and filing them. A lot of fellows replace the factory nipples with Tresco nipples.

For more information on Remington replicas check the SCORRS forum and visit http://www.scorrs.org   
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Bryan Austin

Thanks Bill. At the time of your reply I am down to this topic on that website...Loads for Cartridge and Cap & Ball...lol
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Flint

Is this a Pietta or an Uberti?  I found that often a Pietta has too much side tension on the bolt ear that rides the hammer;'s cam, and this will tilt the hammer to the left as the usual clearance between the hammer pivot screw diameter and the hole in the hammer is excessive.  The same can happen to an Uberti.

Piettas are prone to excessive spring tension on all the springs.

I have made new oversize screws for Remingtons to help correct the sideplay, and if necessary, the hammer's pivot hole could be bushed.  Relieving some of the tension on the bolt wing will help, but can also cause an earlier bolt drop.

As Bull Schmitt suggested, get Treso nipples.  They, by the way are sized for Remington #10 caps.  Make sure of the Remington's maker before you order nipples, as the Pietta and Uberti (and others) use different threads.

Adjusting the length and angle of the hammer face is also recommended, but do this after installing the Treso nipples, as the nipple cone length may well be different than the factory nipples.

If you need help tuning the revolver, let me know, I am now doing Cap & Ball work.  See the website under construction at flints-shop.com.
The man who beats his sword into a plowshare shall farm for the man who did not.

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Bryan Austin

Flint, this is a Pietta made about 1996, stamp HB.

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Bryan Austin

I went ahead and ordered another hammer and bolt. I will check the tolerances. Wish I had a metal lathe!
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Driftwood Johnson

Howdy

I have a Uberti stainless 1858. The hammer is off center on it too. That's the way it came from the factory. Rather than trying to relieve the thickness of the hammer, my favorite gunsmith put a slight bevel on the section of the frame where the hammer was striking. This deflects the hammer back to the center as it enters the frame. Not a perfect solution, but it works fine.
That's bad business! How long do you think I'd stay in operation if it cost me money every time I pulled a job? If he'd pay me that much to stop robbing him, I'd stop robbing him.

Ya probably inherited every penny ya got!

Bryan Austin

Hiya Driftwood!!!!!!

This afternoon I removed the hammer. I drilled the hammer screw hole out (of the hammer) and installed a bushing. I got the tolerance to about .001 for the hammer and screw, but I can still push the screw in with my fingers. This took care of the side slop but then I discovered that the hammer now rests on the left side. Since I ordered a new hammer I decided to remove some material off the hammer instead of the frame. This basically took care of the problem enough that the frame will not get further damaged. I'm sure the hammer will not be as strong, but I do have a replacement coming. I can't wait to see how the new hammer fits. As bull said, I think the hole in the hammer was not drilled straight. If I have the same problem with the new hammer, when the old one wears out, I will install the new hammer then work on the frame as you described.


Thanks Guys!!
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Wolfgang

HEY SAVVY JACK, . . . you're HERE.   And you are becoming a '58 Remington mechanic.  Good for you.  It is part of the fun of Cap & Ball and the HOLY BLACK  :).   I've had to do a bit of fiddlin' with mine but haven't had the hammer problem.  I did play safe a while back and get one of the complete sets of repair parts from Cabelas.  And then played even safer by ordering a set of all the screws from VTI.  Are ya havin' FUN yet ? . . . . Wait until ya SHOOT it.   I had a thought today that didn't occur to me yesterday.  The nipples are pretty beat up on the steel frame pietta with the "faux ivory" grips that I bought.  But I capped them and shot it just fine anyway.  Will get Tresto nipples for all of 'em one day.  Haven't had the need yet.   Good shootin', . . . and fiddlin' with GUNS . . .   :D
Beware the man with one gun, he probably knows how to use it.

Bryan Austin

Thanks Wolfgang, yeap...I figured I'd pester these guys for a while...lol

I do enjoy tinkering and working on them. I just gotta make sure I do it right before I start! I also like building airplanes as much as flying them! No room for error there ya know but just too dang expensive now!!!!

I can't wait to shoot it. As you can see from that post I made, I was up till midnight fiddling with it. I did purchase #11 nipples but only 100. I'll go ahead and try them before replacing the nipples. I guess I may have to move to #10 caps depending on what brand nipples I get (Tresto?)

Thanks for the nudge in the right direction!
SJ
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Marshal Will Wingam

Quote from: Driftwood Johnson on July 26, 2008, 08:50:54 PM
Howdy

I have a Uberti stainless 1858. The hammer is off center on it too. That's the way it came from the factory. Rather than trying to relieve the thickness of the hammer, my favorite gunsmith put a slight bevel on the section of the frame where the hammer was striking. This deflects the hammer back to the center as it enters the frame. Not a perfect solution, but it works fine.
I had a similar problem with a Uberti. It was ever so slight but it would just nick the side of the frame. I beveled the side of the hammer with a stone just so there wouldn't be a sharp corner to catch the frame. That was three or four years ago. No problems since.

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Wolfgang

There is an article in the SASS cowboy chronicle about working on a '51 that had the hammer hitting the frame.  I haven't gotten the second article with the "fix" for it as I've been on the road.
Beware the man with one gun, he probably knows how to use it.

Bryan Austin

I have mine but had not even opened it yet. Figures...lol. I did read it after I read your post and that is not quite as severe as mine. I did knock down the ruff edges on the frame though. He basicly hit both sides of the hammer at the top and knocked off the ruff spots on the frame. I actually had to remove some material from my hammer, dang near a 1/64th of an inch if not 1/32!
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