Holster patterns and leather thickness

[Dark Star]

When making a pattern for a holster is there any guideline for how far to increase the width of the tracing to account for leather thickness? For example, if I trace the outline of my gun and then create a pattern 3/4" from that line what is the thickness of leather I should use to insure a proper fit?

In some pattern packs for example, it is suggested to use 9-10 oz leather with the particular pattern. If I wanted to make a 14 oz holster for example, how much do I need to enlarge the outer edges of the pattern?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

For a single layer of leather, I wouldn't add any extra. When I make a double layered holster, I add twice the thickness of the leather along the fold line of the holster. If you have any doubt about a pattern, try making a holster out of cardboard first to make sure you have it right.

[Dark Star]

For a single layer of leather, I wouldn't add any extra. When I make a double layered holster, I add twice the thickness of the leather along the fold line of the holster.

The outside edge, correct?

If you have any doubt about a pattern, try making a holster out of cardboard first to make sure you have it right.

I'm doing that now with a pattern I made, and the cardboard pattern was cut 3/4" from the outline and fits the gun ok, but even if the cardboard fits, the holster can end up being too tight or loose depending on the thickness of leather I use.

The way I'm understaning your suggestion is to draw the outline 3/4" from the outline of the gun and then add twice the distance of whichever thickness of leather I chose. For example, for a 14 oz combined thickness trace a line 1" from the outline (3/4" plus 7/32" (14oz leather=7/32" or roughly 1/4" ).

Am I on the right track here?

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[Marshal Will Wingam]

The outside edge, correct?

I'm doing that now with a pattern I made, and the cardboard pattern was cut 3/4" from the outline and fits the gun ok, but even if the cardboard fits, the holster can end up being too tight or loose depending on the thickness of leather I use.

The way I'm understaning your suggestion is to draw the outline 3/4" from the outline of the gun and then add twice the distance of whichever thickness of leather I chose. For example, for a 14 oz combined thickness trace a line 1" from the outline (3/4" plus 7/32" (14oz leather=7/32" or roughly 1/4" ).

Am I on the right track here?

You're correct on both accounts. The additional width is to allow for the leather to wrap around the aditional thickness. When you wet mould the holster, you can make it fit by stretching the leather, but it's easier with the additional thickness to work with. Also, on a double layer, the glue keeps the leather from stretching as easily so the added width helps.

[tarheel mac]

Way back a hundert years ago, (meaning in this case the late 50s or very early 60s) there was a magazine called "Gunsport" And that magazine had an article on making a holster from scratch.  As I remember it..( the magazine itself got thrown away by accident, durn the luck..) you traced around the pistol, reversed it and traced around it again..then allowed a 1/2 inch (I think...) to the gun tracing...I don't remember what weight leather was used though...

[Slowhand Bob]

There is a relatively new book out on the market, YEEHAA.  The writer talks about a rather interesting method of patterning out new guns for holsters.  He uses a strap of leather in the desired leather weight to lay out his lines.  There are to many variables between the various guns for any one meaurement to be universal but I tend to start a revolver pattern using 3/4" borders on the outer edge while 1/2" is used for my auto patterns.  As soon as you think you are there, you suddenly decide a need for fillers in your new pattern!  Experience and a stock pile of older patterns helps a great deal on new pattern construction for fit.  What seems to keep me occupied forever is getting the nice lines to connect up with the proper fit.

[Oregon Bill]

I often use a manila folder for making my patterns. I lay the revolver in the opened folder with the sight and topstrap centered over the fold in the foler, then carefully roll the revolver onto its side. I then rough sketch the outline of the pistol  about a half-inch out from the pistol's actual outline. After removing hte pistol I then simply fold the folder closed and cut out the outline . I then check the pistols fit in this pattern and adjust here and there, sometimes even stapling the pattern in two or three spots to check pistol fit. This method has worked for me, with minimal trimming needed later. I have made a number of Slim Jims this way with good result out of vegetable tanned skirting leather and using wet moldign for final fit.

[Dogface]

I've only been doin' this stuff for about 14 years and don't do all that much anymore but here's my .02 cents worth.   When making a pattern for a new gun I do just as you...trace the gun and make a basic pattern about 3/4" outside that.  Then desing the top and skirt if any.  Now I use 8/9 oz leather and that usually works with those lines.  I always line the holster with 2 oz instead  of thin actual lining leather.  When glued in it actually becomes laminated instead of just lined.  This adds a lot of strenght and keeps the shape nearly forever.  If you feel the need,  you can add extra to your 3/4" border then decide where your stitch line needs to be after it's cut.  This will give you room to trim and sand the edges smooth.  Always use a filler at the top for strength and better look and fit. 

Hope this helps...good shootin'

Arf,
Dogface

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks for the post, Dogface. Good tips there.

[Dark Star]

Thanks for the insight Dogface. So far I designed a Cheyenne pattern identical to the Meanea holster on the cover of Packing Iron and used 7-8 oz leather lined with 6-7 oz. I went a bit farther than 3/4" outside the gun outline after trying out the fit with the manilla envelope pattern and then matchng it all up with an enlarged tracing of the holster outline that I made from the book. I'm using 10 oz for the filler at the top which should give the trigger guard room to fit in nicely.

Now I'm at the point where I'm trying to decide on the tooling pattern. I'm not going to fully carve the design pictured, but I'm leaning toward tooling it after the pattern of the Meanea holster that is on the facing page inside the book where the holster on the cover is pictured. It's basically the same holster, made for a 7" bbl gun without the carving. I'm kind of stuck figuring out which stamp or combination of stamps were used for the triangle-shaped tooling that was used on that one. Since I patterned my holster after a Meanea design I'd really like to stick with one of their tooling patterns. If anyone knows which tool or tools were used I'd sure appreciate the info!