Cylinder pin removal on 5 1/2 inch barrel Remmies

[Cincinnati Slim]

Howdy Folks,

I got a blue Pietta "Sherrif's model" 1858 Remmie with the shorter 5 1/2 inch barrel.

I was thinking of replacing the cylinder pin with a stainless part just to speed clean-up.

Already got a stainless spare cylinder which is easier to clean and more crud resistant than it's blue steel counterpart. I went to remove the cylinder pin last night and found the loading lever catch under the barrel blocks complete removal of the cylinder pin. I'm guessing the catch is pressed into the barrel since there is no dovetail like on my Colts.

Is there a trick here I'm missing ? Seems like I could cut just a little bit off the end of the cylinder pin so I could remove it. There would be plenty of pin left to slide into the breechface.
I'm looking at just a little over an 1/8 of inch which prevents removal at this point.

Any other short barrel Remmie shooters out there who have encountered this ?

Thanks for yer input !

Cincinnati Slim

[sundance44`s]

Its a lot easyer on the Uberti model its dove tailed in the barrel ... on the Pietta your right its eaither pressed in or something to the sort ..I have only one sugestion to keep the cylinder  pin at the right lenght ..unscrew the barrel about a quarter turn and slid the pin out replace it and tighten it back to the place it was ( per a piece of tape or something ya did to mark the spot )  ..The barrels are right hand thread on the Pietta I`ve taken one off before to shorten it and add dovetailed sight .

[Marshal Will Wingam]

As I recall, I shortened my Ubertis a slight amount so I wouldn't have to drift the catch aside. They work fine. Just make sure the pin is long enough to engage the frame at the rear. I shortened the pins on my wife's Model P Jrs and they work fine, too. I thought about taking a round file to the slot at the bottom of the frame on my '58's where the pin goes in so they could slip past the catch at an angle, but finally opted for knocking off a bit of the end of the pin.

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[Cincinnati Slim]

Thanks Marshal,

I'm gonna do some measuring when I get back to the house.

I don't think I need to take that much off the back of the cylinder pin to get it to clear the latch.

It's long enough now to come clear through to the hammer slot in the back of the frame.

The back end almost touches the front of the hammer.

It's gotta be more than 5/8 an inch deep into the frame.

Don't think triming off a 1/8 inch or so will hurt a thing.

Sounds a lot easier than trying to unscrew the barrel from the frame !

Appreciate the input from Sundance but I'm just tryin' to make this thing a little easier to keep clean, not start a major gunsmithin' project!

Cheers,

Cincinnati Slim

[Halfway Creek Charlie]

Or have me make you and new one that is hinged! makes for easy cleaning.  I haven't done one in stainless but several in regular steel and those that got them like 'em!. I tell you hpow and where to cut the original pin so I can hinge it correctly.

I have even hinged two Kirst Ejector fitted cylinder pins for my 4 3/4" Gunslingers that use the 44 Rem. CF Kirst Conversion Cylinders.
They work great also, and you can clean all of the pistola and not just most of it....LOL

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I've seen a photo of your hinged pin before, Charlie. It's a great idea. I may have to make one just to try the idea out. You have a pic you can post here so he can see it?