URGENT HELP REQUIRED Pietta Navy wedge stuck

[Sundance]

Just can't seem to be able to knock out wedge.  Are there any tricks, techniques to this?
Pistol shot very well very pleased with it.
Using a wooden peg but just won't shift, should I remove screw above the wedge, or what?
Assistance appreciated.

[Cuts Crooked]

Yes, back out the screw, or even remove it, above the wedge. If you can't get it out then, soak it good with a penetrating lube and let it set fer a while, then smack it with a brass hammer.

[Forty Rod]

Don't force it...get a bigger hammer.

Are you driving it from right to left?  It won't go the other way.

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[Sundance]

Thanks guy's, yep driving it the right way.  Right going to try and back out screw (again), the spring part on top of wedge won't go down, poked around with a scalpel blade in case of obstruction. Thought today had gone too good.
Any other ideas fellas if I'm still stuck?
PS Should gun be on half cock?

[Cuts Crooked]

Nope. doesn't need ta be on half cock. If you can figger a way ta hold that spring down whilst tapping out the wedge, it will be easier. But generally it will pop outta the way on it's own.

[Sundance]

That spring just does not want to move down enough to knock out the wedge.  I've cleaned the gun with pyrodex EZ CLEAN the best I can without stripping it, removing nipples etc.  Given the wedge area a good squirt of WD I'll have another go tomorrow.
Cheers fellas.

[hellgate]

Sundance,
The new Piettas have the wedge rammed in way too tight. Here's how I got mine out: Put the gun between a couple blocks of wood so the wedge has some clearance when it does actually move. Use a brass drift. Now, that means ANYTHING made of brass or bronze that won't gall your gun. My favorite "drift" is an old house key (Schlage) turned on edge and whacked with a hammer or hardwood dowel (old shovel handle, chair leg, etc). Support the cylinder and the barrel with the gap between the blocks under the wedge. Your wood blocks/planks will be different thicknesses. The house keys are of fairly hard brass or bronze. The edge of a coin (25c) might also work to simultaneously force the spring down and the wedge out as you strike it. I've even used a sawed off bottleneck rifle brass (shortened) and then pounded flat as a tapered drift to knock out wedges. The .223 comes to mind. Avoid steel drifts as they will bugger up your gun and it'll look like some monkey got too wild.

Once you get the wedge out be sure to grease it well before reinserting it. Do not file the edges or reshape it as they will loosen up with firing over time.

[44caliberkid]

A case rim works good too.  I've put the edge of a .303 Brit or 45-70 case against the wedge and wack it from the opposite side, any case with a pronounced rim will work as a soft drift.   You can also mash the case mouth closed, put that against the wedge, and hit the case head.

[Sundance]

Problem sorted - phewwwwwwwwwwwwwww
Many thanks to everyone, fantastic rapid response guys.
Well the brass key did it (HELLGATE YEH STAR), and brass case 308 flattened, both will now live in my shooting box.
The wedge is now slightly prowd - (on opposite side of screw) gun operates fine, wedge now well greased.  I've read somewhere that it should be flush is this correct?