Trouble Dyeing Leather

[Grenadier]

I recently started a project for my first black holster. I have dyed plenty of things with Fiebings over the years but I have never used black that often. I went about dyeing the leather as I normally do but  I ended up with an irregular streak that ran the length of the holster. After three coats, the spot still would not accept any more dye. So, I ended up with a section on the holster that looks washed out with a little brown showing through. My only guess is the leather retained some oils or fat and it's preventing the leather from absorbing dye.

I almost tossed it out until I decided to finish it and add some cheap leather and chrome conchos. It mostly covers up the flaw but it is still visible.

Have any of you had this happen before? It's cheapo stuff from Tandy. I am guessing it's imported from Mexico or South America.

[1961MJS]

Hi

Bear in mind that I'm not one of the vastly experienced guys on this group, but here's a few things to try.  Obviously these are things that I've screwed up recently enough to remember...

1. When you dye something, wipe off the excess, that leaves really nice big swirly streaks.
2. Did you use the de glazer stuff?  I haven't tried that yet.  It seems to me that having a part of the leather that is somehow different (coated, thicker, more dense ...) it will seem a different color which would look good if it was lighter brown,but look bad in black. 
3. Putting olive oil on it won't help.
4. Did you try wetting it before you put the dye on?

That's my $0.02 and worth half that.

Later

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I had that happen to a small degree. Nothing I did would cover or darken it. Finally I just left it. After all, it is part of the leather and leather is not always flawless.

You can see the spot in the middle of the fold area.

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[Cliff Fendley]

I hate black dye and hardly use it any more. I usually don't have any trouble getting it even provided I'm using high quality leathers but black dyes are the worse for rubbing off. Vinegaroon works good with no rub off but it seems to take a while to get rid of the smell and it's a pain to get all the parts done even unless you do it before it's assembled.

I got a splitter last year so I can split thicker leather to the thickness I need it so nowadays I just use black skirting leather for black projects, in fact that is all I've been doing for the past three weeks is black. Once I get a few orders I do them all at the same time.

The black leather from Thoroughbred is black all the way through, I don't even have to stain the edges.

[Grenadier]

I'm not fond of black either but this is what my customer asked for. I went ahead and made a new holster and it dyed just fine. I'm guessing the hide had a dense spot or a build up of oil in the leather.

[1961MJS]

Hi

I'm stuck with Black Dye for a while, out of respect to the carpeting in my apartment.  I do my dying over a stainless steel sink, so my infrequent spills aren't a problem.  I THINK I could get by with doing stuff outside being an Okie and all now.  I haven't really gone there yet on a holster though.  I don't think I can cook a five gallon bucket of Vigaroon without offending a neighbor or my carpeting.

Later y'all, have a great weekend

[Don Nix]

When your buying leather especially from Tandy, you need to check for scars in the leather. Scar tissue is really dense and will not accept coloring. Second you need to clean the leather prior to dyeing. I use oxalic acid. It helps strip out the oils on the leather and helps give it a uniform finish. Also pay attention to the type of dye. Especially black. Water base dyes just dont work well in black. Clean the leather well then after it is bleached with oxalic acid use A feibings oil based dye. It might help.
 

[Graveyard Jack]

The professional waterstain works very well in black, as noted in Ghormley's article. Doesn't rub off, even wet.

[Cliff Fendley]

The professional waterstain works very well in black, as noted in Ghormley's article. Doesn't rub off, even wet.

Yeah but it only works well rubbing it on. It's great stuff for small projects like a knife sheath but it doesn't dip dye which means on any complex project you have to dye before assembly, then the leather is more dry and doesn't seem to take water as well to mold and form after a holster is assembled.

For me it's black skirting leather from now on for any sizable project. My use of black dyes is very limited now or in the future.

[Graveyard Jack]

I do both. I put on a coat before assembly, which prevents it from puddling around areas like the belt loop. Then I do another coat or two afterwards and don't have any issues with wet forming.