Are you kidding me?!

[OD#3]

Olde 'E' bogged my Standard up after about 20 rounds.   Haven't tried it in any of the USFA's, but I suspect the results will be similar--the barrel/cylinder gap is about the same.  I doubt I'll switch to Black MZ though, since I don't compete with my guns.  It doesn't take much moose milk to get a fouled revolver back into shooting trim, and I can take my time to do that on the range. 

[LonesomePigeon]

DaveT, you might try some Swiss 3F, powerful but clean burning. Another tip, given to me by Mike "Goon", is liquid graphite on the base pin. I haven't actually tried it on an SAA but it worked good on a cap n' ball that was giving me trouble.


I shoot my USFA "Custer Battlefield" .45 Colt with real black powder. I've used Goex and Swiss in both 3F and 2F and I haven't noticed any issues, other than once I had to tap the base pin out after a session. I do put a lubed wad in the shell since my .45 bullet molds are made for smokeless and they have small lube grooves. I want to get a Big Lube mold.

[OD#3]

LonesomePigeon,

I've been casting and shooting PRS Big Lube bullets with black powder for quite a while now.  They carry enough lube to keep a rifle barrel from fouling out.  So they're famous for being able to maintain accuracy throughout a match.  But although they deliver adequate accuracy at CAS distances, they quickly lose accuracy at 100 yards and beyond (no surprise--PRS Big Lube admits as much).   And they haven't helped me in avoiding foul-out with revolvers.  I put about 20 of them through my Standard, loaded with 35 gr. 3f Olde 'E', and the hand still began having difficulty rotating the cylinder at that point. 

I don't think they'll be your "magic bullet" for keeping your revolvers running any longer with BP, sorry to say.  They certainly have their place in allowing long strings of fairly accurate rifle fire, but that lube doesn't seem to help keep a revolver's cylinder from binding up, at least in my experience. 

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[greyhawk]

    As for the bolt spring, it can be a big drag when cycling the action but taking it down to 2-3 lbs of force can make it all but disappear!  [Definitely an improvement]
  Bolt arm thining and cam height reducing/polishing can open up gobs of stored energy in a falling hammer. [Definitely an improvement for parts life and ignition reliability]
   With just these "improvements" (which all can be felt), I can see a "Standard" Standard and a "Deluxe" Standard!!

As for your question about the hand profiling, I mark the tracking of the pushrod (each one is made custom for each revolver) and adjust the thickness accordingly. The Horse guns can be profiled to actually reduce tension at 1/2 cock while loading, and gain tension for braking action during the rest of the cycle. (Hands are hardened before final fitting)

Mike
  
[/quote]

Mike thanks for posting this - a couple of good tips!

[45 Dragoon]

Greyhawk, thank you!! Glad to help if I can.

Mike