'Y'Stand for Buffalo Guns?

[WaddWatsonEllis]

In the first place, I don't know the proper name for this stick ... it looks like a piece of wrought iron tubing with a 'U' welded to one end ....

But before I have one made up by a local blacksmith, is there a commercially available stick like this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=fCKLiumEPHg

Thanks!

[wildman1]

Wadd we usually use a couple pieces of hardwood stick (3/4") square, easier to adjust for height. Just bolt em together 6" from the top.  Usually about 3' long. WM

[Capt. Augustus]

It looked pretty shakey to me.  If you watch closely he is not steady enough for a closer shot let alone a 1000 yards.

I tried to make cross sticks for standing, just didn`t work for me.

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[Coffinmaker]

I'll bet if you look in your local Garden Supply, You'll find something very similar.  Cheap too.

Coffinmaker

[Professor Marvel]

Ah My Good Wadd -

 'Y'Stand for Buffalo Guns, when you can sit?

After viewing your linked magic lantern show, I believe we might safely surmise that once more Hollywierd invented the non-existent ;
I believe they stole one of the cooking irons from the cooking fire across which the cooking cross bar is laid!

what you truly desire is the historically correct and (as pointed out by previous posters) far more stable "Shooting Cross sticks"
which can be seen here ,

 NRA rulebook relates:
“Crossed Sticks: Crossed sticks constructed of two wooden legs, no greater than 1 inch by 2 inches in thickness and width or 1 1/2” in diameter, and bolted or tied so that the two legs are hinged and capable of pivoting. The end of the legs may be equipped with spikes no more than 3 inches in length and no wider than the edge of the crossed stick.

They may be inserted into the ground by hand pressure only to aid in retention of an upright position. One layer of protective material may be suspended or inserted in the “V” of the crossed sticks to protect the rifle.”

this fellow has some fancy ones:



Midway sells them


If one is reasonably self-sufficient, they can be readily manufactured by anyone who has access to tree switches and is handy with a knife:

- cut 2 sticks about as thick as your finger but no thicker than your thumb to length, perhaps 3 feet
- debark with knife, tie them up to something straight (to prevent warpage) and let them dry
- once dry, use a long length of leather cord to tie them together in an X at the height you desire, making sure to have some sort of pad on which to rest your firelock.

I am sure ranch13 and the other Long Range Afficianados will chime in with better assistance :-)

yhs
prof marvel

[dangerranger]

I use these two. one is an atachment it my hiking stick and the other is a cross stick I use while seated.



http://www.varmintal.com/abifu.htm

the cross sticks are much more stable.

[Montana Slim]

I made a set of cross-sticks using a 1" x 2" strip of oak (3 ft, or whatever length you prefer).

I ripped it down the middle, lengthwise, drilled several holes spaced about 3" apart for adjustment (through both halves simultaeously- so they align), located an appropriate brass bolt with wingnut. I made my own ground spikes by forging & grinding 1/4" round steel, then drilled the ends, set & cross-pinned them (alternate method: using 1/4" lag screws - first drill & screw them in, then cut the heads off & point the tips). I also glued/tacked leather strips on the inner edge of each strip as padding for the gun to rest on. stain/finish as desired.

Slim

[Judge Lead]

Why not just use 2 sticks about the same length and staple, nail or tie a strap of leather between the top ends. That way, the height is variable (depending on the distance the "feet" are apart) and just as sturdy. The leather will not mar the finish that is laid across it and looks much more authentic (if that's something else your looking for).
Just my opinion. YMMV

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Why not just use 2 sticks about the same length and staple, nail or tie a strap of leather between the top ends. That way, the height is variable (depending on the distance the "feet" are apart) and just as sturdy. The leather will not mar the finish that is laid across it and looks much more authentic (if that's something else your looking for).
Just my opinion. YMMV

Judge L,
This is exactly what I did to make mine.  I added one nail (the longest I had) to the bottom of each leg by drilling a slightly smaller hole, "nailing" in place, then ground off the head and "pointed" them to go into the ground.  After they were dry (I also glued them in place) I cut two pieces of rawhide (you can get raw hide from a dog chew-stick) in a circle about 2"-2.5" diameter, and soaked them and installed them with latigo thongs to make 'em look right while they added strength to the peg-ends of the leg when the rawhide dried.  They're rock-hard and solid now, and I doubt very seriously that the wood will ever split.  I left the bark on them.  They have a really rustic, hand-made look, if I say so myself.

PS - I'm only a beginner at leather work, but I was told by a professional saddlemaker that rawhide can only be soaked soft one time after use - and still be useful.  In other words, they soak them when they are processed by the factory or tanner, and then you can soak them once more to mold them to a specific shape or purpose.  More soaking/softening makes the rawhide get pretty slimy and useless.  (Slimier than when you soak 'em the 1st time!)  YMMV II

[Henry4440]

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=15449.0

 

[GunClick Rick]

Anybody that ever had a Daisy bbgun knows your barrel should be on a soft area as well as your arm against leg type shooting...

That outta rile "em"some..