Cyl., aliignment???

[Slamfire]

Yelp! i'm back,,as some of you know i'v been reworking my 72OT,the only thing i have left to tune or fix,, is the cyl. & bolt. My bolt strikes the cyl. right at the bevel,but it hits at the front edge of the bevel ( toward the barrel), not in the center of the cyl. How ,or what do i need to do






  Hootmix.

[Pettifogger]

This is where a photo or two would really help as what you are saying isn't really clear.  The bolt shouldn't strike in the center of the cylinder as the notches aren't in the center of the cylinder.  When you cock the gun does the bolt drop into the locking slot and lock up the cylinder?  If so, there really isn't anything you can do to change where the bolt strikes fore and aft on the cylinder.  You can change when it drops as the cylinder rotates, but you can't change where it comes up out of the frame.  That location is fixed.  The only other thing you can adjust is the cylinder end play.  How much cylinder gap to you have?  If it's more than six or eight thousands, the cylinder could move forward a little to far when the gun is cycled.

[Raven]

If the bolt head is leaving a mark slightly foreward of the center line of the lead and the bolt notch....you can modify the bolt profile to move the top of the arch toward the centerline. Make sure you keep the curvature and the angle of the bolt head the same, just move the apex.

Raven

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[Slamfire]

Many thanks,,,Mr. Pettifogger,,yes sir ,barrel to cyl. gap .004-.005 w/ .002 end shake,  the cyl. locks up tight,,bolt drops clear,the bolt just drags on the forward edge of the lead ( learned the correct word from Mr. Raven). Mr. Raven ,,APEX ,,move to center line ,i really started to do that,,,but i thought i better check w some of ya'll. I checked all clearences ,4-5 times then used a blk., ink marker to cover the drag marks ,then rotate, mark ,rotate mark,i believe the timing is right,,hammer pull just right smooth,,trigger pull 1 1/2 + /-,( may be to lite for some), i think ya'll would like what i'v (we)done ,,it's just the marks are just sooooo ugly . I 'll reblue after,its right to me. Thanks again.




  Hootmix.

[Hoof Hearted]

Have you checked the length of the pawl? You should always check indexing of the cylinder though the bolt window first as everything else follows suit......

HH

[Slamfire]

Hoof ,, if the pawl is not the finger that rotates the cyl., then i 'm ready to learn some more,(correct terminolgie's,) and indexing ,is this procedure done w/ the cyl. in the frame or out? I'll  thank ya'll again.




Hootmix.

[Hoof Hearted]

The pawl and the hand are the same thing.
Here goes:

Remove the back strap and trigger guard
Remove the trigger, bolt and both screws
Put the back strap back on w/o the grip (this is your hammer stop)
With thumb and forefinger providing some tension on the cylinder and the pistol upside down, peer thoough the bolt slot

You want the cylinder to advance until the notch in the cylinder lines up with the bolt slot (give or take depending upon style of shooting).

If it is not advancing all the way hand (pawl) is short, over advancing pawl is long.

HH

[Slamfire]

Hoof ,thanks ,simple and clear. I'v tried several times to post pictures w/ what i'v done,,,I'll figure that out ,,,,in time,,,i hope.     


Hoof i'll holler back at ya.





 Hootmix.

[Slamfire]

Hey, Hoof,,,ok here goes,,,with the cyl., facing to my left ,looking down into the bolt hole ( with light pressure on cyl., ) as i slowly pull the hammer back until the notch in the cyl., lines-up with the bolt hole,,,the cyl., moves another .025 as the hammer stops aginst back strap. Is the pawl to long or to short,,,oooor is this right???





 Hootmix.

[Hoof Hearted]

That amount of additional movement should be fine.

Pm me and I'll call ya!

HH