Your favorite Black Powder

[King Medallion]

So have decided to load my 45/75 with BP. I really don't know much about BP other than it has to be compressed a bit. I dabbled with it years ago but it didn't catch on, interest went elsewhere. Interest has returned, so I'm looking for intel. You fellas know more than me, so my ears are listening. I have no gun shops in my area to buy BP, so I'll have to order online. Powder Inc. will ship in 5lb. mixed lb increments, so what should I get, a lb of each brand to see what works best?
I have several differnt types of Pyrodex and 777  also, taking up room on the shelf. Use it or dump it?

[dusty texian]

King , I have tried Goex 3fff ,  Swiss 2ff  , Schuetzen 2ff and 3ff  along with  Graft 2ff ,and  Pyrodex . Goex shoots good in my 45/75 fouling is an issue after a few shots in the 28" barrel guns  ( need a wipe every few shots for accuracy ). The Swiss 2ff is awesome ,accurate and the cleanest burning powder I have used .The Schuetzen shoots well fouling is a bit less than the Goex , not bad. The Graft&Son 2ff may be Schuetzen powder in their bottle ,shoots well . The Pyrodex shot accurate has a good power level , drawback is hard fouling and very corrosive on the gun and brass . I still have a good supply of Swiss and shoot it most , but will order some Old E next , hear nothing but good about it . A friend makes his own home brew BP. and gives me a small batch every once in a while , it shoots as good as any , the way I  shoot , slow and easy  I noticed in my 45-75 I use a very light compression 1/8" or so no wad home brew lube wax/deer tallow or animal grease , and STD primers no Mag primers necessary . I clean my guns soon after shooting unless out in the pasture after a kill . Also wash my brass with a small brush in a bucket of soapy water , let dry and I'm done . Aint nothing like the roar of the 45/75 in a big old levergun . Have fun finding your favorite load. ,,,DT

[Ranch 13]

Olde Eynsford 1.5 f would really be the ticket for the 45-75.

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[Cliff Fendley]

Old E is probably my favorite for accuracy and clean shooting. 

If they had kept prices closer to when Old E first came out that is all I would shoot but now that the prices of went up I have been shooting a lot of Schutzen for pistol cal CAS. I wish they would get some more 2F KIK. It was the best bang for the buck for everyday CAS.

[Cliff Fendley]

Olde Eynsford 1.5 f would really be the ticket for the 45-75.

I've been shooting 2F Olde E. Would 1.5 be better on my next order for the 45-75?

[Forty Rod]

Been shooting Gerhart Owens / Goex, mostly FFFg, for about 50 years now and see no reason the change.  It is reliable, forgiving, and consistent..... and I still have about a 25 years supply of loaded rounds and 1# cans of the stuff.

[Forty Rod]

I've been using Goex, usually FFFg, for about 50 years now in muzzle loaders and cartridges, and see no reason to change.

It's reliable, consistent, and generally great.

[Ranch 13]

I've been shooting 2F Olde E. Would 1.5 be better on my next order for the 45-75?

 I like it real well in the 44-77. Been shooting some of the new 1F OE in the 40-90 bn and it's working very well.

[dusty texian]

I've been using Goex, usually FFFg, for about 50 years now in muzzle loaders and cartridges, and see no reason to change.

It's reliable, consistent, and generally great.

     My stock of 3fff Goex is circa early 1970's I use it in my muzzleloading rifles 45 50 56 62 72 and my old 1970's 36 cap and ball sixguns . Works  great .,,,DT

[dusty texian]

I like it real well in the 44-77. Been shooting some of the new 1F OE in the 40-90 bn and it's working very well.

    I think I'll try some of the Old E 1 1/2 in my 45-75 . ,,,,DT

[Ranch 13]

Pour it full enough you just barely have room to set a .030 fiber wad in the case mouth, compress far enough to seat the bullet, but keep the wad above the bottom of the neck.
The stuff really likes rp 9 1/2 primers too.

[Drydock]

'Nuther vote for Goex Olde Eynseford 1.5f.  That and OE 3f are all I use anymore.  My big bottlenecks (.43 Spanish, 11mm French, and 10.4 Italian) Love the stuff, along with my .45 and .50 / 70s.  Clean burning, soft fouling, single digit standard deviations.

Oh, and GET THIS BOOK!   https://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Lever-Guns-Old-West/dp/1879356821

[Drydock]

Pyrodex makes decent fertilizer,   777 is good for CAS style shooting, and Iron Sight hunting.

[dusty texian]

Pour it full enough you just barely have room to set a .030 fiber wad in the case mouth, compress far enough to seat the bullet, but keep the wad above the bottom of the neck.
The stuff really likes rp 9 1/2 primers too.

    That is a lot more compression than I normally use ,  Thanks for the tip Ranch , I'll give it a try .,,,DT

[King Medallion]

2F or 3f is better for 45/75?

[Drydock]

If using OE I'd use 1.5F.  I would not go any finer than 2f in that case.

Generally I load slowly pouring the powder thru a 24" drop tube, enough powder that with a .060 card wad, the powder compresses the width of one driving band when seating.  (more than that you really need to use a compression die, but I've never found the need for more than that)  The Bullet must have a BP compatible lube, I make my own from Beeswax+olive oil, but many are available.  I use WLR primers.  The drop tube settles the powder, aligning the grains, reducing the need for compression and giving a cleaner burn.  The wads act to protect the base of the bullet, making for a cleaner transition thru the barrel crown.

[Drydock]

a very nice drop tube, for settling the powder   https://shilohrifle.com/reloading-supplies/shiloh-rifle-drop-tube/

wads  https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010391437/walters-wads-over-powder-wads-bag-of-1000

[Drydock]

If you don't cast, this would be a good bullet:  https://www.midwayusa.com/product/165892/montana-precision-swaging-cast-bullets-45-caliber-458-diameter-300-grain-lead-flat-nose-spg-lubricant-box-of-50

[dusty texian]

If using OE I'd use 1.5F.  I would not go any finer than 2f in that case.

Generally I load slowly pouring the powder thru a 24" drop tube, enough powder that with a .060 card wad, the powder compresses the width of one driving band when seating.  (more than that you really need to use a compression die, but I've never found the need for more than that)  The Bullet must have a BP compatible lube, I make my own from Beeswax+olive oil, but many are available.  I use WLR primers.  The drop tube settles the powder, aligning the grains, reducing the need for compression and giving a cleaner burn.  The wads act to protect the base of the bullet, making for a cleaner transition thru the barrel crown.

                                                                                     I agree 2ff is as fine of powder I would use .   Drydock  basically describes the way I reload for all of my Lever action rifles . The use of a card wad in the type of shooting I do has not made any detectable difference . I tried with and without and both loads shot about the same . If going for a long range load I would use the wad as it should be a benefit , I just don't see it at open sight hunting ranges. I also use  just enough powder for the bullet to do the compression and not deform the bullet . Made my drop tube and stand , flared copper tubing and wood block stand simple but works . Most of my Bp. loads use the WLR primer also . Point is what works for me may or may not work for you and your rifle and environment shooting style  ect. The advice and description of how some do it may not work for you right off, but surely is a good starting point ,   . w44wcf used to say Start Your Journey .    Good Luck  ,,,,,DT

[King Medallion]

OK, let me ask you this: What would the difference be between using a drop tube as opposed to simply tapping the case a few time one the side of the rim to settle the powder. Seems to me it would serve the same purpose, settles the powder. I did it that way when loading 44-40's years ago. Plus I don't have a drop tube.