Period Reference for Hand Sewn Buttonholes, 1884

['Monterrey' Jack Brass]

(the following is from the NCOWS board and is posted here too per the request of the good St. Geo.)

All,

Apologies for being a bit tardy in posting this info. It is a companion bit of info on an earlier thread on period shirts. Here is a period reference for how to complete a buttonhole for cotton/other fabric and linen. A bit wordy but typical Victorian detail. The illustrations are, as they say, worth a thousand words.

The source for this information is: The Complete Encylopedia of Needlework by Therese Maria Josepha von Dillmont (1st edition, 1884 - translated from French).



The passage on sewing buttonholes in its entirety reads:

“Buttonhole Stitch and Buttonholes in Linen (fig. 40). Cut a perfectly straight slit in the material, large enough to allow the button to pass through easily, having previously marked out the length by means of two rows of running stitches on each side, two or three threads apart, the stitches in the second row taking up the threads of the material left in the first row. Working from left to right, pass the needle through the slit, and insert it from behind so that the eye is toward the slit and the point downward. The thread is then passed round under the point of the needle from right to left, and the needle drawn through toward the other edge of the slit. The stitch is drawn tight, as close as possible to the edge of the slit. When the first side has been finished, throw three or four threads across the end of the slit and buttonhole them over, thus making a little bar to prevent the end from splitting. Then do the second side of the slit like the first, with another buttonhole bar to finish off the other end.  For making buttonholes in underwear, use DMC (Dollfus, Mieg & Cie) Alsatian sewing cotton, DMC best 6 cord sewing machine cotton, DMC cotton lace thread, DMC special quality crochet cotton, and DMC Alsa, which are strong, closely twisted threads. The last three are attainable in colors and therefore are suitable for modern underwear.

Buttonholes in Dress Materials (fig. 41). Mark out and cut the slits as already described. If, however, the material is liable to fray, wet the freshly cut slit with a solution of gum Arabic and let it dry before working. Here only one traverse bar is made to complete the buttonhole. The end in which the button will rest must be rounded, and the stitches form a semicircle enclosing it. In thick cloths it is best to cut a very small piece right out. It is also a good plan to lay two threads of coarse silk, or a very fine cord, around the buttonhole, work the stitches over this, and draw it up a little when the buttonhole is finished, in order to straighten the edges. This gives firmness and strength, while keeping the stitches from getting stretched in use. For this work we especially recommend DMC Alsa and DMC Alsatian cordonnet, which are made in a great variety of shades.”

(note DMC = Dollfus, Mieg & Cie, a thread and material manufacturer in France since 1746)


YMH&OS,

'Monterrey' J. Brass