Need help selecting a powder.

[Delmonico]

I've ran Lil' Gun in my 480 Ruger and the other big rounds but even though there isn't a nickels worth of difference in the performance I'm just sticking with H110 in the magnums. If anything on sandbags with scoped revolvers the H110 has better overall accuracy and consistent velocities.

As for the original post, when I do load 38 special I use Clays, I dont shoot much 38 special but I do load a few for playing around the house and for my wife to shoot. I actually prefer to hear a boom instead of a crack 

That's why you want to look at the data carefully to find the powder that will do the most for what you want to do.  How many folks own a 22 Hornet, a 32 Mag and a 28 Gauge and if they own all three how many of them shoot all three a lot?  They call it Litl' Gun and you may notice all are what you can call a Lit' gun.   

[Tuolumne Lawman]

Well, if you were loading for .44-40, I'd say Alliant 2400. 15 grains for CAS and 24.5 grains for 200 grn JSPs in a Marlin 94 or Winchester 92!

[1961MJS]

Looks like you have made a good start.  At $20 this electronic scale is a smoking deal if you are interested.  I paid 36 or 39 for mine at sportsmans warehouse plus 9.1% sales tax
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/175512/frankford-arsenal-ds-750-electronic-powder-scale-750-grain-capacity

Hi Captain Dan

I would suggest buying a decent beam scale and check weights.  I borrowed a scale like that one from a friend.  After messing with it for an hour or so, I NEARLY beat it to death with a ball peen hammer and took him the $60.00 it cost back then from Midway.  Electronic scales are subject to humidity, wind, vibration, mice farting, etc. 

I zeroed the scale, I put a .45 ACP Brass on the scale, it read say 4.0 grains.  I took it off, the scale went to zero, I put the brass back on, now it weight 4.5 grains, took it off...  by the time I weighed it the fourth time it was 7.5 grains.  I re-zeroed the scale and it climbed faster.  I talked to my gunsmith and he showed me his 4 electronic scales "That I never use cause they don't read accurately" and his 40 year old beam scale that he used for everything.

Just my $0.02 and worth every penny

[Advertising]

[1961MJS]

Hi

I ordered a few Winchester Cases, I have a few thousand WLP, and I ordered three boxes of Missouri Bullet 200 grain Lead Round Nose bullets.  I have Titegroup and Bullseye in the house, but I understand that I might be better served by using Trail Boss.

I also understand that moving up to 250 grain bullets might be a wise option also.

These will go in a SAA Clone and later (hopefully) a Winchester 66, 73, or 92 (probably not).  Is it possible to shoot the same rounds in both guns?

What's the verdict?

I don't think I should plan on BP since I live in an apartment.  I don't want to live with the Sulfur smell, and I doubt the management will think its good to wash them outside...

 

Thanks

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy, 1961MJS !!

Your Bullseye & Titegroup will do fine.  So will the Trail Boss.  Since you didn't mention the caliber, but DID mention both 200 gr. AND 250 gr. projectiles, I'll assume that your caliber is 45 Colt.  Many prefer the Trail Boss for its' ability to fill more of the very large cases used for many of the 44 & 45 calibers used in our fun sport.  I have use both B/E and T/G and there is a LOT of empty case there even after a full-power charge is in the case.  It CAN be easy to miss and not see if a case sneaks by your attention (for example, when someone calls or some other distraction) without powder, and later causes an VERY unsafe condition; ie. a "squib" load as it's often called.  (To others:  let's NOT get into the semantics ... right or wrong, a "squib" is most often what the condition is called.)"

Personally, I LIKE Titegroup - it has a great sound that, surprisingly, is a bit different than other smokeyless (MY term) powders, and it is both accurate and economical.

When loading with smokeyless powder (I'm primarily a BP fan) many of us have found that loading 45 Colt with the heaviest bullets propelled by the highest SAFE, published loads, and crimping firmly will allow the case to expand and seal the chamber a bit better than ANY light loads.  This keeps your chamber(s) cleaner and keeps less residue to blow back into the workings of those rifles.  Others may disagree but these hints have helped MANY  to get the best performance from their old style rifles.

You CAN use 45 Colt RNFP (round nose, flat point bullets) in all the rifles you mentioned AND your SAA.  If your projectiles are TRUE round nose, then I would caution against their use in any tubular magazine firearm.  The recoil CAN cause bullets in the tube to jolt & jump and the nose of one bullet cause the primer to go off on the cartridge above (after) it in the tube.  This happens a LOT more if pointed bullets are used. (which is why Hornady came out with their "Lever Evolution" premium hunting ammo that has a soft polymer tip that WILL work in tubular magazine rifles ... primarily lever actions.)  It CAN happen if using the wrong type of ammo that uses the wrong type of projectile.

You COULD do BP, but I understand about the smell.  My family is used to the smell, but they DO complain occasionally.  I usually wait until they're going out for a couple hours to do my "dirty work."  And the sheer FUN of shooting BP from these old style firearms can't be beat!!!  Don't listen to ANYONE who says it's harder to use and clean BP - they simply don't know what they are talking about.  HOWEVER, BP cleaning (and shooting) is MUCH dirtier and does smell ... to some.  And you can't "put off" cleaning after firing for very long.  To get my own guns to the same level of cleanliness as I get them after firing nitro powders, it take less than one third the time, and there is NEVER any real scrubbing.  Just hot water and/or "moosemilk" to clean & stop the residue from doing nastiness like attracting moisture.  Then, it's ready for re-oiling and done!  (Moosemilk is a concoction many of us use that consists of one part Ballistol [a high-quality mineral oil] to 5 to 10 parts water.  And it looks like milk - while smelling a bit like old socks, IMHO!  The water stops the corrosive properties of the BP residue, and the Ballistol forms a light coating of oil which keeps rust from starting immediately.  Then some high quality oil &/or grease for the best lubrication & preservation, and as I said ... DONE!)
 

With a thorough application of Febreeze or Lysol (or similar) the smell goes away quickly ... at least to MY nose it does ...

 

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Hi

I don't think I should plan on BP since I live in an apartment.  I don't want to live with the Sulfur smell, and I doubt the management will think its good to wash them outside...

 

Thanks

Clean your guns at the range, if that is feasible.

[1961MJS]

Hi

Yes, oddly I DID leave out that I'm shooting a .45 Long Colt and the bullets I ordered are Lead Round Nose Flat Point.  I think I'll jump up to 250 grain next time I order, and I'll probably use Trail Boss.  I don't want to shoot mouse farts, I don't want to have a bunch of blow by and unburnt powder, AND I don't want to wear my wrists and hands out.  I'm shooting a 7 and a half inch barrel but I don't want to become recoil sensitive.

I'd like to use taper crimp since that appears to wear out the brass less, will that work or not?

Later

[pony express]

I like titegroup too, but it's not available locally. will probably use unique when my supply is gone, unless i get some at a gunshow.

I think taper crimp may work ok in the pistols, but you might need a little roll crimp in the rifle, to prevent magazine spring pressure and recoil from pushing the bullets deeper in the case.

[1961MJS]

I like titegroup too, but it's not available locally. will probably use unique when my supply is gone, unless i get some at a gunshow.

I think taper crimp may work ok in the pistols, but you might need a little roll crimp in the rifle, to prevent magazine spring pressure and recoil from pushing the bullets deeper in the case.

I wondered about that.  I DON'T want to roll crimp, but it looks like I'm stuck. 

Thanks

Mike

[Delmonico]

Don't worry about a taper crimp, if it's done decently tight it will most times have more bullet pull than a roll crimped round and if there is a crimp groove it will roll it in.  A roll crimp will sometimes pull the case away from the bullet below the crimp, esp if the case is just a bit too long.  The taper crimp keeps that from happening. 

I've broke two kinetic pullers removing bullets from taper crimped rounds.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

+1 for what Del said.

But a firm crimp is the key - roll or taper.  MOST of us revolver types go with roll, but both work fine.

I think your 250 gr. projectiles + TrailBoss will do fine.  No mouse pharts, but you WILL get blow-by, even with full loads.  You'll just get LESS with the hotter loads.  Besides, it's hard to "gunk up" a gun with the residue from a smokeyless loading - at least to the point it stops functioning.

[Delmonico]

+1 for what Del said.

The roll crimp for revolvers and taper for semi-auto pistol rounds has been pushed for so long everyone thinks it's the only way.  I doubt anyone who ever really tried the taper crimp in a revolver or a lever gun would ever go back to the roll crimp, provided they did a good tight crimp, but then if you are going to crimp do a good job of it for many reasons.

[cpt dan blodgett]

Howdy, 1961MJS !!



You CAN use 45 Colt RNFP (round nose, flat point bullets) in all the rifles you mentioned AND your SAA.  If your projectiles are TRUE round nose, then I would caution against their use in any tubular magazine firearm.  The recoil CAN cause bullets in the tube to jolt & jump and the nose of one bullet cause the primer to go off on the cartridge above (after) it in the tube. 

Funny how times change,when I was a kid, Dad was given a 94 Win 32 Special by a neighbor in 1955 or 6.  With the exception of winchester silver tips which were flat point, all 30/30 or 32 special ammo I ever saw back then was round nose.  Must not have been as many lawyers in the mid 50s

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Cap'n Blodgett, you may have a point there.  There are several manufacturers (Hornady for one, who make pointed nose ammo specifically for use in lever guns.  The tip, however, is a polymer point, so no primer can be activated by recoil.

The CYA factor IS the main issue, after all.  The round nose and pointed tips CAN set off the bullet ahead of it in the tube ... CAN, not necessarily WILL.  I simply wouldn't take the chance.  Having said that, a round-nose bullet made of pure, dead-soft lead probably wouldn't cause an accidental discharge.  But that is my opinion, NOT my recommendation.