1866 project

[MMA10mm]

Well, I finally got one!  Ordered a Cimmaron Carbine in 44 Special.  I was really trying to decide between an SRC and Short Rifle, and had come down on the side of the SRC.  Talked to my dealer, and he called Cimmarron.  They said they had 8 SRCs in stock in 44 Spl. and ONE Carbine without the saddle ring feature in that caliber.  I didn't even know they made it without the saddle ring...  Dealer pointed out that the non-SRC is also historically accurate, so I ordered that one, just to be different.

Got it Monday and shot it yesterday.  I loaded up some smokeless, since I had the bullets already sized and lubed, and it was quick and easy.  Shot cloverleafs at 25 yards.  My one disappointment (small) is that it doesn't have a sight setting that works at 50 to 100 yards.  I held the top of the front sight even with the tallest outside parts of the buckhorn rear and that put me about right for elevation at 50 yards, but seriously low at 100.  Flipped the sight up and used the lower aperture, and the rounds went about 12" high at 100 yards...  No sight setting zeroes for 100.  The rear sight is the simple flip-up/down buckhorn sight.  I'm thinking I might want to get the more complicated ladder sight.  Any suggestions?

I've got the Adirondack Jack's lifter to convert this to 44 Russian, and I'll get to that in a couple weekends, but I'm really eager to get this tricked-out like an Indian-owned gun.  I've got a nice turkey feather and have ordered some brass tacks.  But, I've got a couple questions and would like some input:

I'd like this carbine to look about 5 years old with a majority of that period being non-attention to maintenance.  That means letting the brass naturally tarnish, but is there a safe way to speed this up?  Also, what to do about the modern-looking glossy finish on the wood?  Is there a good way to strip this, and what about a new finish (hand-rubbed?)?

BTW, I'm reenacting a civilian scout circa 1872-5.  This carbine will be a "battlefield pick-up."  For pistols, I'm carrying an Open Top currently, but I'd like to switch my main pistol to a S&W American model, if one of the companies (like Cimmarron) would get us a repro of an early model.  (I'd relegate the Open Top to a back-up gun or second gun for SASS matches.)  My plan is to shoot 44 Russians in everything to represent/equivalent the 44 Henry cartridge.

[Deputy Duke]

You will get a perfect tarnish and nice patination by shooting black powder and fondling it with your grimy powder stained hands. You can really speed it up by wiping black powder fouling on the brass then wiping it off with a soft cotton rag with Ballistol on it.

Duke

[Fox Creek Kid]

The sights are regulated (copied from originals) for original 26 -28 gr. REAL BP loads. That is why your POA is different. 

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[Major 2]

sounds to me ("I've got the Adirondack Jack's lifter to convert this to 44 Russian, and I'll get to that in a couple weekends..
your fine with taking it apart.
So to do the stock & Forestock you will need to remove them and a paint & varnish stripper and 0000 steel wool.

I got my stripper at Auto Zone but Home Depot, Loews etc with have Stripper.
The product I got is call AirCraft/Auto and sprays on like a paint rattle can it is a sorta gel.
Though you will be just fine a pint can and brush it on too.

I used plastic bags for my hands or rubber gloves will work The Uberti Poly is tough so plan on 2 if not 3 treatments..
Apply the remover and allow to work a Minute or so (read the directions for time )
Rub with the grain using the steel wool it will load up so have several pads ready.
Work the old finish off ( careful at inletting so you don't round over the edges )
The Remover is watter based so I used wet rags to remove the remaining Striper and/or neturalize with water.

The Stripper will bleach the wood some so you might want some Hormer Formbe's walnut stain...
The final finish is up to you...Boiled Linseed with a drier, Tung Oil , or just EVOO

Now if you want to tone down the blue finish , I use White vinagar, go lightly until you achieve the amount you want removed

[MMA10mm]

Thanks pards!  Each one of you hit one of my questions.  Perfect!

Major - thanks for the recommendation on the bluing.  I was wondering about that too, but thought it might be too aggressive.  Glad to hear the vinegar works, as I've got some, it's cheap, and it sounds like it goes slow.  I'll be careful. 

I've been looking at photos, and it seems the natural wear points (corners and especially along the barrel, just above the foreend where the fingertips often hit) are the most-worn blued areas.  I'll work on that.

I think stripping the poly finish off the stock is going to come first.  Getting that done, with the stock and forend off the gun already, I'll probably put some finish on it and then do the tack-work.  Then, I can re-assemble, with the 44 Russian carrier, and then start shooting the black powder.  (Already have a stockpile of Ballistol.) 

I've not found any good pictures that show how the feathers should be mounted.  I've got a few 1870s photos showing the feathers attached near the front of the forend, but I can't see how they did it.  Any suggestions?  (I thought of running some simulated sinew behind the front forend band and just tieing them on, but I'm not sure I like that...)

[Ottawa Creek Bill]

Mic......
Sent you a Personal Message today...

OCB

[MMA10mm]

Thanks Bill, I got it.

I just got back from Menards and have obtained most of what I need to start on the stock.  Got Stripper, Steel Wool (0000 - is hard to find), and Tung Oil.  Still need to find the right stain.  They had tons of choices, but I'm looking for what Bill recommended to brown-up the reddish Italian stain (alcohol-based, so it will penetrate through the original stain).  BUT, the stripper I got says that it will remove prior stain finishes, so I'll wait and pick my new stain after seeing how good the stripper does of getting rid of the red.

I already have some white vinegar on hand.  Got an applicator pad for that, which should allow me to adjust where and how much vinegar gets on different areas.  I want to hit the lever (I absolutely hate taking down that case hardening, but it's got to be done...), the barrel just above the fore-stock (where the fingertips generally hit barrel steel), and the corners the hardest, as they would get the most natural blue wear.  I'll hit all of the exposed metal areas a little.  Any suggestions for other areas?

I'm ordering the low-dome tacks from Crazy Crow and OCB gave me some places to research designs above and beyond the ones I already have.

I'm still thinking about how to attach the Turkey feather(s) to the front barrel/magazine band...  Anyone have suggestions? 

I'll definitely take step-by-step photos and describe the process for y'all.

[Branding Iron Bill]

Scroll down to the bottom of the page and will see a picture of my henriys.  The military 'in the white' henry and the '66 are refinished using minwax english chestnut oil stain followed by formby's tung oil.  about 6 coats.  Very pleased with the results.  The '66 had some lighter sap wood streaks, and the stain was able to cover them up.  The other two rifles have the standard uberti red as you can see.  HTH

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,7583.80.html

[MMA10mm]

Thanks, BI Bill.  I saw your collection on that thread before, but didn't know the stock finishes. 

Your work looks far too nice to be a well-worn Indian-used rifle, but it sure shows how nice a finish one can do with the right stain and finish-work...  I'm probably only going to put a coat or two of Tung Oil on the wood.  That will help seal it some, but leave it looking "well-worn" I'd think...  It will be a "work-a-little/check-it" process for the right results I guess.

I'm also toying with the idea of creating some "saddle-wear" on the belly of the gun.  Anyone ever done this?