At the time of the Vera Cruz occupation, the sailors mostly wore undress whites but due to the latest uniform regulations (1913 regs, I think) they had a smaller rounded collar, instead of the squared off flap at the back of the collar. Only the undress white uniform was affected by this change, and in just a few years it was changed back. Photos from Vera Cruz show a mix with mostly the small collar, but a few of the old style.

I use a Mutton Tallow/Beeswax/Paraffin lube based on the "original" Tallow lube that was posted in the Rifleman probably before any of us were born.  I have modified it three times now to be more heat tolerant since I learned the role that Fatty Acid play in keeping BP fouling soft.  I actually learned it at a medical conference when we began discussing alternative waxes like Japan Wax and Carnuba.  Most waxes contain Fatty Acids to some degree and then I was reading about Fatty Acids and keeping carbon build up soft.

So I have been playing around with different ratios of Tallow, Beeswax and Paraffin.  If I had my druthers I would actually leave the Paraffin out and I have for patch lube, but with summer temperatures in places I have lived you need a bit of paraffin to keep your lube either in the grooves or not migrating out of a saturated felt wad into the powder.  I have a lot of Beeswax and would just use it but it softens at around our body temperatures and flows freely at temperatures your firearms will see in the summer without Paraffin to stiffen it and the tallow. This is my lube:
 
I have run controlled tests where I set ten rounds of loaded ammunition out in the Texas sun for several days and then pulled bullets to see if the lube escaped the groove.  That is where the "New & Improved" version came from.  I also chronographed .38spl, .30 WCF and .44 Russian loads with some ammo going through a two day sitting on a truck dash bullet facing up test.  No velocity loss other than standard deviation, some heated rounds actually were faster.  All were shot on a morning with temps in the 70s.

I also set wads with the lube out in the sun on paper to see how much would transfer in the sun. Then I tried it again setting wads sitting in a glass dish on top of FFFg powder to see if it would wick out.to the powder.  I didn't see any more sticking or "wetting" than the control dish and wads on paper sitting in the house with the "New & Improved" lube.

Cleaning seemed the same between all three formulas above with Soft almost pure lead bullets or the limited number of rounds (20 total) through the.30 WCF which was my 20:1 alloy. Strangely enough I have found I get more leading with harder bullets and Black powder than with the Soft Lead running around 4-6BHN.  I had a bunch of .38 Snake Bites cast for me and got the first leading I ever had in my rifle.   When I contacted the gentleman I got them from he said he was using wheel weights or he called "20:1" lead.  I gave him some roof lead and he made me 500 replacements and the problem went away... I don't get leading with my BP loads, I do get powder fouling with a lot of shooting. Never enough to require barrel cleaning during a match.

~Mako

This will do until I make a dedicated holster

I just saw the left hand match to your holster

https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=68844.msg805968#msg805968

Mine is near identical to MTM.   I use a mix of olive oil and bee’s wax.  Usually in equal amounts or a little heavier on wax and last batch had a slug of jojoba oil as well.   Good stuff.   

For black powder breechloaders, which is anything from Hall carbines to 45-60 and 45-70, about 4 parts beeswax to 1 part olive oil. More wax if it's hot, more oil if it's cold. For muzzle stuffers, patched roundball to CW muskets, 50/50 MCM lube and beeswax.