So . . . How do I fix this?

[chakotay]

Just recently acquired a Lyman 1860 .44, which research has informed me is manufactured by Armi San Poala. It’s in pretty good shape except for one thing: It must have been dry-fired A LOT as the hammer has actually been “peened” to the shape of the nipples (which I’ve already replaced). I haven’t been able to find a replacement hammer. Is there a way I can fix this myself?

I was thinking of maybe drilling out the damaged area of the hammer face and pressing a nail or similar hardened material of the same diameter of the hole, then filing it flat.

I’ll probably end up selling it whole, parting it out, or finally trying my hand at “antiquing” (which I haven’t wanted to do with my more expensive guns).

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Hi,

I would think that the solution would be to weld it and then file it to flat...

If you don't have the tools (or skills) to do it, I would think that any gunsmith worth his pay would be able to do it ... and if he could not do such a simple task, I would wonder whether I ever wanted to take another problem to him ... he is either very inexperienced or has too much work already ....

Just my $0.02 ...

[Blair]

Armi San Paolo is (was) Euroarms. They have been bought out by David Pedersoli. (I do not know if Pedersoli has any plans on remaking any of the Colt style/type of revolvers at this time.)
You may want to see if The Winchester Sutler at tws@shentel.net  may have a replacement hammer? (maybe?)
Before you do any of this, you may also want try snapping some caps (only) on the replacement nipples to see if the hammer will still function properly.
As a last result, you may want to consider having the face of the hammer welded up. (I would suggest having this done with a TIG welder, to keep from overheating the part)
You will also notice the hammer face has a slot milled into it. You will want to duplicate this slot. It helps to cause the cap to separate when it is fired.
Just some thoughts/ideas on my part,

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[Delmonico]

The big question is, "does it fire a cap fine or not?"  If it does just shoot it and don't worry about it.

[Cliff Fendley]

The big question is, "does it fire a cap fine or not?"  If it does just shoot it and don't worry about it.

Ditto

[Pettifogger]

+2.  Shoot it first and if it is OK don't worry about it.  Lots of C&Bs have peened hammer faces and work fine.  One note, however.  If you do reweld the hammer face DO NOT put the safety notch back in it.  The notch causes lots of problems with cap fragments and most dedicated C&B shooters fill that notch.

[Fingers McGee]

+2.  Shoot it first and if it is OK don't worry about it.  Lots of C&Bs have peened hammer faces and work fine.  One note, however.  If you do reweld the hammer face DO NOT put the safety notch back in it.  The notch causes lots of problems with cap fragments and most dedicated C&B shooters fill that notch.

+3.  If it really bugs you to have the nipple impression there, just file it flat.  As long as it pops caps, you're golden.

[Coffinmaker]

I know it's your gun, but ..... It's a nice looking firearm.  I think antiquing it would be a mistake.  Stick some caps on the cones and see if it pops.

Coffinmaker

[RickB]

I agree with Coffin. If you were the owner of such a gun during the period it would not look antiqued,  it would appear more like it currently does.

[John Taylor]

The hammer should be filed off so it does not hit the nipple. This will help the nipples last a lot longer and the hammer will not get deformed. The hammer should come very close to the nipple but does not need to touch it to fire a cap.

[Pettifogger]

Darn PhotoBucket.  Changed and I can't figure out how to import two photos at once.  Let's try them one at a time.  Filing the face so the hammer "does not hit the nipple" doesn't work if the hammer is soft in the first place.  Just normal shooting will deform the hammer face.  Here is the answer to the original question.  I mill a pocket in the hammer face and then silver solder in a puck of drill rod.  Serves two purposes, fills the hammer notch so you don't get cap frags sticking to the hammer face and it makes the hammer face more durable.




Yes, the hole is milled so the insert hangs slightly below the hammer face.  This is done because the original hammer doesn't quite seal the bottom of the nipple.  The hole is milled on the center line of the nipple so you get a full gas seal.

[chakotay]

I just had a thought; Why couldn't you just fill the notch with JB Weld, and at the same time epoxy a thin piece of sheet metal over the whole face of the hammer, then file to shape? It'd save the step of drilling a hole in the hammer. 

[Pettifogger]

You can fill the safety notch with JB weld.  However, epoxy won't hold the plate through repeated firing.  You need to solder it.  Or weld up the face with hard weld and reface the hammer.

[Roshi]

I have no idea what nipples fit this revolver but if it takes Pietta nipples ( 6 X75), Track of the Wolf offers stainless 6 X75's that are 0.019 longer than standard.