Reloading .44-40

[9245]

I just finished reloading my first batch of .44-40 and thought I'd share what I did and ask some questions.

My initial goal was to replicate the 19th century black powder load, my issues were finding a historically correct mold, sourcing brass (completely out of stock when I was ordering), and getting reloading data, because most molds and reloading data seems to be geared entirely to smokeless loads, modern bullets, and SASS mouse fart loads.

I solved the brass issue by just buying some Magtech blasting ammo essentially just for the brass, I shot the ammo, had fun, and saved the brass.

Then there was the issue of the mold, after researching here and other places I learned that my best and most economic options were to find a used Lyman 427098 mold, or an antique Winchester mold on Ebay, I chose the Lyman.

Load data was the issue, lots of conflicting information, much of it completely false.  The original load was 40 grains of 2F, however those were with balloon head cases, and I have read multiple times that 19th century 2F is more like modern 3F.  So I researched it, but actual data was near impossible to find and I kept seeing people advocating, what I felt, were ridiculously low loads, which might be fine for competition, but nowhere near replicating historical performance.

My initial attempt was to use 40 grains of Swiss 3F(which DOES fit, but it is a full case load, then use a compression die before loading my bullet.  I made it work, however at least with my compression die and brass it caused the base of the cartridge to bulge just enough that they failed the drop test and could not be chambered.  I tried using less compression, but got the same result.

Next I tried 35 grains, which filled the case to about 1/8 of an inch from the case mouth, I did not use a compression die this time and got the bullets to seat without issue and they chambered.

I finished with a Lee Factory Crimp Die.

All my dies are Lee, I read that Lee's dies do not open the case mouth enough for more than a .427 bullet and can confirm that that is correct, I sized all of my bullets to .427 and they just barely were able to get started even with the die maxed out.  However they did work.

I also noticed that despite the Lyman 427098 supposedly producing 205 grain bullets it instead produced about 220 grain ones when used with pure lead, which is much heavier than I wanted.

I used a magnum primer because that was all I could find.

So my goal was a 200 grain bullet over 40 grains of Swiss 3F but ended up with a 220 grain bullet and 35 grains of 3F.

So how did I do?  And about what muzzle velocity do you expect that I will get from a 4.75 inch revolver (Pietta Great Western 2)?  My goal is to replicate the performance of a 19th century factory load, I'll consider it a success if I can meet or exceed the muzzle energy of an original 19th century load, how close do you think I got?

My loading process was to use a brass black powder powder measure, which I found was graduated dead on for weight for 3F Swiss.

I used home made lube of 50/50 beeswax and Crisco, mixed by volume melted and I pan lubed.

Any recommendations for next time?  What did I do wrong?

Any way to make 40 grains work?

[Cap'n Redneck]

Lyman probably arrived at a bullet weight of plus/minus 205 grains by using a lead-tin mix.
You could try casting some bullets from re-purposed wheel balancing weights and see if that brings you closer to your goal.
Warning: Do NOT use wheel weights made from zinc; you will get poisoned.

"Any way to make 40 grains work?"

I guess you could hire a machinist with a lathe to turn your solid-head brass into balloon-head brass...?
You could also have the 220 grain bullets chucked up in a lathe and drilled out to create a hollow base cavity (like a Minié-bullet), that would decrease weight and make room for a few extra grains of Swiss.

[Abilene]

I understand the desire to recreate the original load, but without balloon head cases that really can't be done without compressing more than the originals were compressed.  IMO, a cartridge that performs well would be the most important consideration.  And so I wonder whether your bullet is .427?  Since your pistol bore is probably .429.  Being pure lead it will expand some but enough for best accuracy?  Shoot the dang things and see!  Might be a one-hole group in which case you can stop thinking about minor details and enjoy your good fortune. 

[9245]

I understand the desire to recreate the original load, but without balloon head cases that really can't be done without compressing more than the originals were compressed.  IMO, a cartridge that performs well would be the most important consideration.  And so I wonder whether your bullet is .427?  Since your pistol bore is probably .429.  Being pure lead it will expand some but enough for best accuracy?  Shoot the dang things and see!  Might be a one-hole group in which case you can stop thinking about minor details and enjoy your good fortune. 

Unfortunately the only way to use more than a .427 was to buy another die, specifically a redding, which I just did not want to spend money on, especially for a test run.  I have not slugged the barrel so I do not know.

I will indeed see the results once I can make it to the range, and I will be bringing my chronograph, but that might not be for another month or two with my schedule.

[King Medallion]

When I started loading 44-40 way back when, I used Lyman dies. Wasn't long and I called Lyman and got a .429 expander plug. Made a world of difference. Just in the last couple years I bought a RCBS Cowboy set and they work just as well. I use virgin 20:1 lead for my bullet casting in an Accurate 43-215C mold. Made a bunch but haven't had the time to load nd shoot any yet.