Newer Uberti arbor lengths.

[OD#3]

Anyone else notice that the arbor length fitment on the newest Ubertis are tighter than they used to be?  I always address the known arbor length issue on every Uberti I buy, and I just set about correcting this on my two newest Ubertis--a 2021 manufactured Dragoon and a 2022 manufactured 1860 Army.  To my great surprise, though they're off, it is only very slightly so--maybe 10-15 thousandth's of an inch at most.  I'm going to have to change the way I usually fix this, as there is so little to work with here.  Just wondering if this is a thing now, or if I just got "lucky".  I put that in quotation marks, because it is actually a little bit frustrating.  If the arbor hole depth is going to be off, I'd prefer it be 1/8th of an inch too deep rather than something I'm going to have to dress down a thin washer for.

[Abilene]

Howdy.  My last two Ubertis, a '51 R-M from Taylors and a '60 Type II from Cimarron, both had proper length arbors.  Or at least they are so close that I can not fit the tiniest of washers in the hole ahead of the arbor.

[45 Dragoon]

    Well so far, I haven't seen that in new offerings but that's not to say things aren't changing.  I had a surprise last week with a "rough as a cobb" 2nd Gen that took a much thinner spacer than normal ( I checked again to make sure it wasn't a first gen. !!!    ) so, crazy things do happen  .  .  .
    OD#3, I don't like real thin spacers either so in this instance  ( and instances like this) I took some material off the end of the arbor so I could install a "proper" spacer.  Of course I've explained in the past that I dress the end of the arbor anyway to "dial in" my endshake spec so this time I had to go a little further!!!
Just a heads up if you go that route, your wedge slot will grow slightly  ( in total) so a new wedge may be in order or maybe not. In my case, I always install an adjustable wedge bearing so that isn't a problem.  I'll keep an eye out for "better" arbor lengths  from Uberti ( but ain't holding my breath  !!).

Mike

[OD#3]

Thanks for the replies, fellas!  Shame to shorten the arbor just when Uberti was so close to getting it right, but that thought did cross my mind.  Incidentally Mike, installing an adjustable wedge bearing is something I usually do now anyway, thanks to you. 

One other thing has crossed my mind, and it IS tempting....

I know you don't do this, but I, myself do often lap the barrel assembly against the frame as part of my fit-up.  Like you, I fit the spacer so that everything bottoms out with very tight endshake, but I do this with the barrel rotated 45 degrees so that the bottom of the frame doesn't interfere.  This usually means that by the time I have my desired endshake, the bottom of the barrel assembly has moved past the end of the frame a few thousandths.  I know we've discussed the harmlessness of slightly pie-shaped cylinder gaps before, but I just don't like them.  So after fitting the arbor depth, I pull the frame pins and lap the barrel assembly to the frame until it won't lap anymore.  If I were doing this for a living, I'd have to charge too much, as that lapping-in does take a while.  BUT, I end up with a bottomed-out arbor fit and tight endshake with an even cylinder gap.  So... it IS tempting with these very close arbors just to lap these barrel assemblies onto the frame sans spacer until the arbor bottoms out and then dress the rear of the barrel with a facing cutter to achieve my desired endshake.  That would save me the trouble of making a spacer, and I'd have more meat on the end of the arbor (more threads in the hole for the adjustable wedge bearing).  Still thinking on it....

Regardless, can you tell me again which stainless steel screws you used to make your spacers?  I dropped the brass spacer for my Walker in the gravel last week and hopelessly lost it.  This was my very first arbor fix project for which I'd used a brass locating pin from a Dillon reloading press, and it was just sitting in there loose.  Regardless of how I decide to address these latest revolvers, I'm going to have to replace the spacer on my Walker, and I've decided to make it out of one of those screw heads this time and epoxy it to the bottom of the arbor hole.     

[45 Dragoon]

Hey again OD!  I understand your wanting a parallel endshake opening. I get there by "adjusting" the fc. It's never very much as with a thicker spacer to begin with,  your starting with the barrel in a more "sight appropriate" position. Dressing down the arbor to spec brings the barrel close to where you want it to be ( without  lapping  !!  WOO HOO !! LOL!). Just another process for you mull over  !!
   The screws are #14 pan head sheet metal screws  for horse pistols/ #12's for belt pistols.

I'll try and post some pics. of the process.

Mike

[Coffinmaker]

  Well Hey OD!! 

Really great to hear from you!!  Thought sure you'd gone of to Alaska for Salmon fishing and decided to stay 

This is actually a "Hey!!  How Are Ya" as since I hung up the shingle, called it quits, retired, all that stuff, I haven't kept up with recent developments.  However, I'd not chance a Uberti to be even close to right.  Decades of Abhorrent Fitment of the Arbor just make's me grind my teeth.

Good luck fixing that one.  Correcting a tiny little error is often harder that fixing something we could walk thru hand-in-hand.  You might also consider an automotive type blade feeler gage set and "JB Weld a really thin one to the end of the Arbor??

People Still Hazardous to Yer Health.  Avoid 'em if ya can.

[OD#3]

Ah, the original Coffinmaker.  Glad you're still kicking around and in possession of your faculties, too!  Still puzzling this one over.  I'm liking my last idea more and more, but it violates one of the first rules--that one about modifying the cheapest, most replaceable parts first.  Facing the FC can't be reversed; a badly-made spacer can.

[Coffinmaker]

Yepper   

One of the first things I learned (some lessons more expensive) was alter the cheap parts first.  Then be very careful about "permanent" alterations that can't be reversed.

A point.  My Open Top "set" include .38, .44, and 45 Schofield cylinders and barrels.  Makes 'em a Chameleon in Blue sort of thing.  Had I lapped the original Barrel (.45 Schofield), I would have had to lap every additional barrel in the "set."  The Fitment of Uberti Barrel/Arbor may be abysmal, but it was universally abysmal.  After adding a brass washer to the end of the Arbor, all the subsequent added barrels fit properly.  At least the machine error was carried forward in everything.  By the same token, I also learned the hard way, filing sights to a particular load was/is a fools errand.

Anyway!!  HAPPY HOLLIDAYS!!  Mouse Safari is Wonderful you betcha!!

Keep those Happy Thoughts Coming!!   

[Bunk]

In August I bought a brand new in the greasy bag Uberti (Taylor) 1851 Navy that must have been put together by an annoyed employee.
There was no date code on it only a number22 in a circle stamped on the frame.
It took a brass TOW wedge driver and a fairly  big hammer to remove the wedge after taking out the retention screw.
Using the loading lever and a bit of Swedish steam the barrel came off. It would not go back on..
Three of the nipples were tight past my good nipple wrench.
Quality control department there must be run by a poorly trained rat.
It looks great and Hoof Hearted sorted out the problems and installed a Krist Konversion to shoot either .38 Short Colt or as a cap and ball.
Shoots fine both ways but that was rediculious.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk
P.S. A certain retired gun plumber warned me to steer clear of Uberti.
Did I listen?
Noooooo
Should I have paid attention
You bet your boots

[Niederlander]

I've never had any major issues with Ubertis.  Of course, the arbors are generally too short, but that's a pretty easy fix.  I've converted a couple to coil springs for the hand, and that's not too difficult, either.  One thing I DO wish they'd do is use better quality screws.  They always seem to be soft and really easily damaged.  As has been mentioned here, I now look at them as really pretty kits that will need to be fitted.  I'm sure they could do more fitting, but the price would then probably be more than I'd want to pay.

[Tronicst1]

All I have to do with my Uberti is to make sure the screws are tight before going to the range.

[BurritoBandit.45]

In August I bought a brand new in the greasy bag Uberti (Taylor) 1851 Navy that must have been put together by an annoyed employee.
There was no date code on it only a number22 in a circle stamped on the frame.
It took a brass TOW wedge driver and a fairly  big hammer to remove the wedge after taking out the retention screw.
Using the loading lever and a bit of Swedish steam the barrel came off. It would not go back on..
Three of the nipples were tight past my good nipple wrench.
Quality control department there must be run by a poorly trained rat.
It looks great and Hoof Hearted sorted out the problems and installed a Krist Konversion to shoot either .38 Short Colt or as a cap and ball.
Shoots fine both ways but that was rediculious.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk
P.S. A certain retired gun plumber warned me to steer clear of Uberti.
Did I listen?
Noooooo
Should I have paid attention
You bet your boots

I got an 1860 sherrif (but it's pietta) from them last year in about that condition. Ended up having to buy a new frame and backstrap as the screws are apparently cross threaded.
It sure does look good. Way better than others I got in the late 90s and 2000s, this one actually looks and feels like a firearm, unfortunately all of the major parts fit poorly and were seemingly forced together.
If I ever hear back from the Goon I'd like to have him do the deluxe treatment on it