I got nothin. Except. Glue is NOT your friend. The most common culprit is RED LecTite. Some good Juju there, and some bad Juju. The stuff is tenacious. Takes heat to release. When I encountered Red, I used a small hand torch (similar to making Crem Brulet) to heat the parts. CAREFULLY. It's (heat) not real good for the finish if you get it too hot.
Clamp it up inna barrel vice, apply the heat to the FRAME to expand the frame slightly and release the Red. If, it's epoxy on the other hand, you're on yer own.
Thanks Coffin -
Red Loctite, or the Italian equivalent , is what I am hoping for. Apparently the late model Piettas are infamous for some sort of glue.
I am using a Giant Machinist Bench vice, holding the barrel clamps, and a home-built Frame Wrench with Model P oak inserts.
and I am working from a Hamilton Bowens article as seen here
https://www.coltforum.com/forums/single-action-army/87261-saa-barrel-removal.htmlI was considering a proper frame wrench from brownlells, but mine is actually more robust, then I found this
Build Your Own Frame Wrench Tool, Tool of the Month from GunTech #63
yeah - I am gonna build that sucker with bigger bolts, thicker steel, and a
TEN FOOT 4 foot long pipe handle.
Then I am gonna build a new workbench for the Giant Machinist Vice involving 4x4's and concrete.
and I found another web forum thread where some folks are making frame inserts from epoxy, cerrosafe, Sculpy (of all things) and other materials.
Since I also play at doing pottery, I can make some "mold to fit" low-fire clay inserts with fiberglas reinforcing that would
easily withstand 350 degrees ( I think thats where red loctite lets go)
Um, Ah, Why do you wanna remove the barrel anyway??
I have delusions of Grandeur
See, I have already chopped a remmy and a brass 1851 with my hacksaw and files, so now its time to move on to
ruining bigger and better things!
But besides that I want to take these two pieces, a Remington NMA, and a 1873 Model P , both of which have barrels that are "too long"
and do the job proper , on my lathe, and try my hand at truing & facing the cylinders, reaming the chamber mouths to size, setting the barrels back "a tish", but timed so the from sight & etc remain in the correct position, and so I can re-face the barrels and recut the forcing cones, cut the barrels to "correct" length and test various crown ideas.
And while everything is off, I have
some sacrificial parts rough cast grip frame parts, a beater barrel, and a beater cylinder I want to try tigging and brazing and silver soldering on as
mad scientist frankengun experiments to try to achieve the object of my desire:
except in blue.
cuz my nickle plating frankenstein tank isn't ready yet.
I won't pretend I can "blueprint" them, but I can at least
ruin them slowly try my hand at barrel and cylinder tuning "once".
I anticipate It will be Much like the time wanted a Buffalo Hide -
I knew some folks who raised buffalo north of Denver, and they sold me for only $75, a wonderful stiff, dry, stinky green buffalo hide off a 400 pound "calf" they had to slaughter. I was in Fat City! After Mrs Marvel almost puked getting out of her car, the Green Hide of Destiny was removed to a remote back shed, where I put it into a makeshift tub to soak and built a huge streching frame. Then Streched the hide and made a scraper from an Elk antler and a large old wood plane blade. Then proceeded to scrape. And scrape. And scrape some more.
I was making some progress after several months... but things kept nibbling at the edges somehow so the hide went from about
6x8 feet to perhaps 4x6 feet. . Intrestingly the smell was dissipating, and the hair stayed on somehow. But when it finally got down to about 3x5 feet and was still not thin enough to make anything except bullet-proof rawhide armor, I gave it up as a hopeless endevour
and cermoniously scarificed what was left to the Dumpster Gods, packed in lime.
So, yeah , another project like that .....
yhs
prof insane