1872 Open Top

[Grapeshot]

I bought an 1872 Open Top Repro from Taylors about two years ago when I got back from Iraq.  I shot it in at least Three matches with Black Powder Loads.  While cleaning it, I took it apart to do so.  While putting it back together, I broke the hand spring.  I ordered another from VTI, but it was evident that it was going to need a gunsmith to fit the new hand.  I took it to my G/S and he had it for two years and gave it back to me today.  I have no heartburn with him or the reasons he had for the time he had it without getting it fixed.  He is now in the hospital going under the knife and I wish him well and a speedy recovery.

What I need now is the name of a good G/S that can get my revolver back into the game.

[Stillwater]

Some gunsmiths have a habit of taking forever to do some of theier repairs.

I worked for a very famous gunsmith, in the 1911 accuracy field, and he was that way much of the time.

Bill

[Fox Creek Kid]

...While putting it back together, I broke the hand spring.  I ordered another from VTI, but it was evident that it was going to need a gunsmith to fit the new hand...

You don't need a new hand to get a new hand spring. The old spring can be knocked out of the hand and a new one inserted. You can do it with a vise and a modified small screwdriver. Grind down the blade so that it will fit into the small slot that holds the hand spring in place and knock it out. Then you just insert the new one. It's easy. 

[FlyingZebra]

Also there is the 'final solution' modification which replaces the hand spring with a coil spring.

Either way, best of success to you!




FZ

[Flint]

You can often use the new handspring as a tool to remove the old by lining it up and tapping it into the slot against the old one, driving the old one out the other side, as long as the slot isn't crimped too hard.

[Blair]

Recapturing the tension of the thin side of the slot in the hand can be very difficult, when replacing the hand spring Only.
In most cases, replacing the complete hand and spring components as a unit is best. Especially within the pre-1873 SAA.
My best,
Blair

[Mean Bob Mean]

Recapturing the tension of the thin side of the slot in the hand can be very difficult, when replacing the hand spring Only.
In most cases, replacing the complete hand and spring components as a unit is best. Especially within the pre-1873 SAA.
My best,
Blair

I just bought a new hand with spring already in place for a pittance from Cimarron, this is a good suggestion.

[Coffinmaker]

Plus one to Flint.  Get a new spring and use it to drive the old spring out.  Takes about 3 minutes.  Then "adjust" the spring tension with your thumb until it fits in the hand raceway with reasonable tension.  Polish the curvy part that rides against the race way wall and your done.

Coffinmaker

[rifle]

I like to use a single edge razor blade to open the slot a lil to get the old broken spring out. That way the bending doesn't break the tab off much.

Using the new spring to drive out the old is alright to do if the crimp to the sides of the hand aren't too tight.

Crimping a new spring in properly is best done with a lil homemade tool. An old wood chisel or screw driver. A "V" cut the right width in the tool can peen from both sides at once so the effort isn't negating itself trying to peen one side then the other.

A spring should have an hour glass shape(sorta) so there is a narrow spot even on each side for the tabs sides to peen into to lock the spring in place with the homemade lil tool. That's the best way I've found to do the job. The "V" in the tool to peen the tab metal into the cut out(hour glass) on each side of the spring.

Some springs have that narrowed spot on the sides to peen into but some don't. If they don't then make them.


If you do it this way the spring can't come out the slot or move from side to side.


I've seen hands so banged up from folks trying to peen down  the tab to hold a spring in it defies logic. The lil "V" cut in a tool gets it done on both sides with one small tap.

This is good advise for cap&baller revolvers too. They rarely have the cut outs on the sides of the hand spring so ya have ta make them.
I thunk that if the old spring is tapped out with the new one the new one will be a lil loose fit if not peened a lil on the sides.

[Virginia Gentleman]

Good information here.

[Grapeshot]

Rifle... I did try to replace just the spring by prying the slot open with an X-Acto knife but the metal tab that holds the spring broke away from the hand as I started the new spring into the slot.

So back to my original question;  Anybody out there know of a good G/S that specializes in the Open Tops?

[Pettifogger]

If you are taking it to a gunsmith simply have him drill a hole in the frame and use a plunger and coil spring.  Problem solved forever.

[Flint]

This is the solution that Pettifogger mentioned.  I used a Ruger spring and plunger, removed the leaf spring and polished the back of the hand.  The retaining set screw shown is not really necessary as the grip backstrap will hold the spring in place, as it does in a Ruger.

[Shenandoah]

There are also smiths who will do this if you want it done.

[Lefty Dude]

Not so difficult. I have done three so far, two more to go.
All you need is a good drill press vise, a drill press that you can change speeds, some cutting oil, and patience.

It takes longer for the accurate layout and set-up than the actual operation of drilling.
The Hole needs to be in the center of the hand channel and square with the frame & Arbor.
If you follow Pettifogger's excellent article on the subject, you can not go wrong.