Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
CAS TOPICS => The Darksider's Den => Topic started by: Dick Dastardly on October 23, 2018, 03:53:47 PM
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My 38-55 High Wall had a case separate and leave part of the brass in the chamber. Efforts thus far have failed to dislodge it. Comments welcome as to how to proceed. I'm thinkn' of plugging the barrel beyond the stuck piece and pouring Cirrosafe in and removing it that way.
DD-MDA
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Do they make a ruptured case extractor for 38/55? I have a case extractor for every caliber I shoot (but I don't shoot 38/55). I have had ruptured cases come out when chambering a second round that went inside the broken one and came out when extracted.
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My 38-55 High Wall had a case separate and leave part of the brass in the chamber. Efforts thus far have failed to dislodge it. Comments welcome as to how to proceed. I'm thinkn' of plugging the barrel beyond the stuck piece and pouring Cirrosafe in and removing it that way.
DD-MDA
Dick
easy - get a piece of 1/8th brass (brazing) rod, put a sharp chisel point on it and a slight curve, sharp enough you can drive that chisel point in between the stuck case and the chamber wall - cant hurt your chamber with a brass rod - once you get the point started drive it all the way in and the ruptured case will form a crinkle around your brass rod - pull back and the thing will fall out. Works fine in a lever gun too without stripping it down.
Have told this trick to several fellers and they mostly ignored it - too simple and easy I think.
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Greyhawk,
Could you also put a chisel point on the brass rod and then bend it into a "J" shaped hook, shove it into the chamber just beyond the case mouth and then pull back?
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I'd go with the chamber cast over the top of the stuck brass with Cerrosafe and then knock it out with a ramrod.
That worked for me with a separated .44-40 in a Winchester--the neck of the remaining case was so thin I couldn't seem to catch the edge with any kind of tool.
If it doesn't work you haven't gouged anything.
--DJ
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Greyhawk,
Could you also put a chisel point on the brass rod and then bend it into a "J" shaped hook, shove it into the chamber just beyond the case mouth and then pull back?
I dont believe it would work as good - when you drive that rod (only takes a few taps after it is started) between case wall and chamber it moves the whole case wall from contact - it just falls out - if you tryin to hook it out then the stuck case is - well - still stuck in full contact --- this is just one of those things that is so darn simple nobody believes it - all blokes want to do is argue - and next thing they sticking an easy out in there - or messing round and make a chamber cast and drive it out - I have done this brass rod thing - it works - I have passed on the info in good faith - live too far away to hit you guys over the head with a brick to get through .........can lead the horse to water - if he wont drink there no sense bashin him over the head with the bucket !
Now that lil rant ought to make you and DD stubborn enough to NEVER try this ;D
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Hey, I love rants. Been known to rant myself. I’ll try your method after my own method fails miserably. ;D
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I'd go with the chamber cast over the top of the stuck brass with Cerrosafe and then knock it out with a ramrod.
That worked for me with a separated .44-40 in a Winchester--the neck of the remaining case was so thin I couldn't seem to catch the edge with any kind of tool.
If it doesn't work you haven't gouged anything.
--DJ
Tell me please how ya gonna gouge yr steel chamber with a brass brazing rod - we could market that idea and make a million bucks
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Tell me please how ya gonna gouge yr steel chamber with a brass brazing rod - we could market that idea and make a million bucks
Just give up try'n... :-\...I never had a stuck case where the head separated ..So all mine were easily knocked out with a ram rod,,,,BUT!!! If'n I ever have a case with no head to knock out with a ram rod,,,I WILL use your method,,,And a big tip of the hat to you for the info sir. :)
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Just give up try'n... :-\...I never had a stuck case where the head separated ..So all mine were easily knocked out with a ram rod,,,,BUT!!! If'n I ever have a case with no head to knock out with a ram rod,,,I WILL use your method,,,And a big tip of the hat to you for the info sir. :)
We should never admit in public we done somethin dumb enough to lead to a case head separation
however
To quote some wise careful old codger
"some blokes read the instructions, some learn by bein told, then there are some just have to pee on the electric fence" ;D
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Ok Pards,
The case was made from fire formed 30-30 brass. It wasn't annealed before reloading. I think it was brittle at the old neck. My culpa. I have some 1/4" brass rod and can make the beveled end easily enough and then a little curve to the tip, also easy. That'll work or the cirrosafe will do the trick. Either way, that little stuck brass piece will come out.
DD-MDA
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Hello Dick,
I had this happen with my Model 92 Rossi, just pushed a tight brush in & pulled it out.
Hope this helps, AntiqueSledMan.
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Ok Pards,
The case was made from fire formed 30-30 brass. It wasn't annealed before reloading. I think it was brittle at the old neck. My culpa. I have some 1/4" brass rod and can make the beveled end easily enough and then a little curve to the tip, also easy. That'll work or the cirrosafe will do the trick. Either way, that little stuck brass piece will come out.
DD-MDA
Dick
dunno whether this is any use but I made a heap of brass for a 375 BB from 30/30 - annealed it . I made a long tapered plunger from a 3/8th HT bolt (just happened the thread fit one of my dies) one pass - never broke a case. got to have a nice polished finish on the bolt surface
BTW That brass rod will work better if you have a bit smaller diameter 1/8th brazing rod is good
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A military gunsmith showed me a trick to remove stuck cases.
Get a short piece of drill rod.
File a groove around one end, sloping it to the rear. Chamfer and smooth the end of the rod
Cut a slot down from one end, perhaps 3/4 to 1 inch
Splay the slot so the notches will catch the front of the stuck portion
Insert through the breach until it catches
drive out with a cleaning rod
Dimensions might not matter a lot and the splaying of the tool can be adjusted for different circumstances. Once made, keep it in your gun maintenance tool box. Heh! Ya never know.
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A military gunsmith showed me a trick to remove stuck cases.
Get a short piece of drill rod.
Drill rod in the chamber ?? You got to be kidding!
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A military gunsmith showed me a trick to remove stuck cases.
Get a short piece of drill rod.
Drill rod in the chamber ?? You got to be kidding!
Smoothed and properly handled, I can"t see a real problem. "Though I see your concern.
I'll bet you can do the same thing with a brass rod, and much easier to work
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A military gunsmith showed me a trick to remove stuck cases.
Get a short piece of drill rod.
File a groove around one end, sloping it to the rear. Chamfer and smooth the end of the rod
Cut a slot down from one end, perhaps 3/4 to 1 inch
Splay the slot so the notches will catch the front of the stuck portion
Insert through the breach until it catches
drive out with a cleaning rod
Dimensions might not matter a lot and the splaying of the tool can be adjusted for different circumstances. Once made, keep it in your gun maintenance tool box. Heh! Ya never know.
that is very similar to the commercial/ military 45-70 split case removers!
yhs
prof marbels
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I've had a couple of guns with stuffed chambers from using something steel as a stuck case extractor - gunsmith - armourer or whatever THAT dude aint gettin his hands on one of mine
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How about if you take a wad of brass wool scrubbing pad and stuff it inside of the case sort of tight, and then screw a long screw into the center of the scrubbing pad. That should expand the pad a bit and make it pretty tight. Then either pull it out with the screw or push it out from the other end with a rod.