Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
Special Interests - Groups & Societies => SCORRS => Topic started by: Wagon Box Willy on May 11, 2014, 10:11:12 PM
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Hody folks.
The ejector rods on my 1875 last only a couple of matches before they either bend and bind at the nut or break right off. Even though I now push them axially with the rod and not grabbing the nut (finger tab) the bend and seize after about two matches. When I straighten the nut back square with the rod the tenon which is pressed into the nut of course has lost any strength it had and will bend in short order. I even had one just drop on a table after I fired a round a couple of weeks ago.
Once they break I file a new tenon on the end of the rod and press it into the nut....really sucks as this is the highest failure item on the pistol....and it costs like 25 bucks from VTI
So I guess I'm asking if anyone else uses 1875's as their main match pistols and if they have the same issue with the ejectors. I shoot BP so there is more force required to eject the spent case than with smokeless I would guess.
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I use 75's as my main guns for a couple years now and have had zero issues of any kind.
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I've been shooting 1875 and 1890 Remington replicas with BP for almost twenty years and I don't even know how you could even bend the ejector rod on one.
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Maybe I wasn't clear. It's the little 3/16" diameter tendon that bends, misalignment the nut and causing the rod to bind on the cylinder pin. Maybe the steel on the older guns was better.
But I assure you it happens to me all the time.
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I bought a matched pair of 75s in nickel plate back in 1975, and one had similar problem. I was working part time at The Flintlock In Hobby City in Anaheim, and the owner, Ray taylor, and I workd on that gun for over a year without any success.
I finally solved the problem by selling the guns to my Sergeant Major for his two sons and he had someone make him a whole new one out of stainless steel.
Looked funny, but worked very well.
Sevral subsequent guns (all blued) have not had any problem.
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My guns are blued bought new from EMF around 2011.
I buy the replacements from VTI and often they need to be squared prior to installation...which probably weakens them.
Maybe next time I fix one I'll heat treat it to make it resistant to bending. I know that will make it brittle but that may be better.
I'm going to look around for some SS rod that I may be able to use.
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Maybe I wasn't clear. It's the little 3/16" diameter tendon that bends, misalignment the nut and causing the rod to bind on the cylinder pin. Maybe the steel on the older guns was better.
But I assure you it happens to me all the time.
This is when a photo is useful to make sure everyone knows what you are talking about.
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I'm on a plane so no gun handy :)
Item 164. The rod is pressed into the nut using a 3/16" tenon. Very weak if you use soft Uberti to steel.
http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=26&cat=Uberti+1875+Outlaw+and+1890+Police
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I have big gorilla mitts and never had any problems with either of my Uberti 1875 clones I have the 5" barrel models.
apparently the tube is some way causing the block to bind up enough for you to apply enough force to bend the part.
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Hello All,
The ejector rod on the Remington is part of the sail on the pistol, it is a rod of mild steel that has been mill to be half round where it enters the cylinder to eject the spent round. It must be lined up exactly with the cylinder opening or it will hit the cylinder and bend a better piece of steel may be the answer.
Old Top
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I emailed EMF and they were of no help other that to confuse the situation more and state that the 45 Colt rod is not ground on the end where it enters the frame, only the .357 versions are. Of course they sold thee guns in 45 colt with rods that are ground so that makes no sense and also VTI only has the ground ones.
I am going to write Uberti Italy and see what they have to say as well as look for some better steel rodto use for the next time it breaks. I also need to look on my reciept from EMF when I get home and see what their warranty is....I wouldnt consider the rod a wear item.
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Not sure on the Remingtons, but several of the Colt style guns use round rods for the .45 and ground rods for the .38. Simple reason, the hole on a .38 is smaller. A .45 Uberti could easily have ground rods because they ran out of the round ones. The ground rod will work in a .45, but the round one won't work in a .38. It would still be useful to have a few CLEAR photos as I am having a hard time visualizing the problem and the diagram on the VTI site is not very sharp.
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Pettifogger, how's this (see attached)
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Not sure on the Remingtons, but several of the Colt style guns use round rods for the .45 and ground rods for the .38. Simple reason, the hole on a .38 is smaller. A .45 Uberti could easily have ground rods because they ran out of the round ones. The ground rod will work in a .45, but the round one won't work in a .38. It would still be useful to have a few CLEAR photos as I am having a hard time visualizing the problem and the diagram on the VTI site is not very sharp.
that may very well be the case because I was loking at a 44-40 at a pawn shop that had a ground rod and both of mine have solid ejector rods
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Pettifogger, how's this (see attached)
If it were mine and I was having that problem, I'd get a piece of drill rod, turn it so it had a small shoulder, drill out the hole in the plunger lever to match the rod and use Hi-Force 44 to solder it on.
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I've considered that. The only issue is that I'd have to replicate the dimensions because there's not enough material to make the hole bigger. I do still think better material for the rod is the answer.
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I got a piece of O1 drill rod and some solder coming.
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I broke mine trying to stop it from binding. It seems that it binds on the cylinder pin about half way down.
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I broke mine trying to stop it from binding. It seems that it binds on the cylinder pin about half way down.
Yup. that's the symptom. I'm usually able to square up the nut so that it stops binding but doing so weakens the connection and it doesn't last much longer after that.
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I just went to the lock-up and checked mine. the ejector rod runs very smoothly all the way to the bottom of the spring. I suspect you might be having a problem at the hole through the guide in the right side of the frame, through which the ejector rod travels. On my revolver, there is lots of clearance...maybe yours needs opening up a titch. I have removed cartridges that were jammed in the cylinder, by placing the button you describe against a bench or a tree and bashing on the butt, without damaging the rod or the button. I'm happy to be past that part of my reloading learning curve.
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I just went to the lock-up and checked mine. the ejector rod runs very smoothly all the way to the bottom of the spring. I suspect you might be having a problem at the hole through the guide in the right side of the frame, through which the ejector rod travels. On my revolver, there is lots of clearance...maybe yours needs opening up a titch. I have removed cartridges that were jammed in the cylinder, by placing the button you describe against a bench or a tree and bashing on the butt, without damaging the rod or the button. I'm happy to be past that part of my reloading learning curve.
Thanks for the comment.
This is clearly an issue of the tenon which connects the head not being substantial enough to take everyday use. It may have been different on older guns but on the new rods, the tenon is at best 3/32", probably a little less and coupled with soft metal just doesn't (in my case) hold up to ejecting even 100 BP cases.
I recieved some O1 rod which I may grind a tenon on but also just thought about adding a gusset between the rod and the nut. That may prove to be both easier and stronger in the long run.
It's clear by my experience that the current crop of replacement ejectors are not up to the task. I do have an "old stock" ejector coming from EMF so I will compare it to one of the new ones.
The other item I'd love to see enhances is the hand assembly. I use 2 of those a year (usually at the most inopertune times :)). It would be nice to be able to just replace the spring like you can on an 1858. I had heard that someone had them modified to use paino wire but I'ne not been able to find a source for that.
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You can make a trigger spring for the 58 and 75 models with piano wire and a set of Higley wire benders.
Bob Munden should be recognized for iusing the piano wire trigger bolt spring in his action jobs.
you could also use piano wire to make an ejector rod that i guarantee will not break.
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This is clearly an issue of the tenon which connects the head not being substantial enough to take everyday use. It may have been different on older guns but on the new rods, the tenon is at best 3/32", probably a little less and coupled with soft metal just doesn't (in my case) hold up to ejecting even 100 BP cases.
I recieved some O1 rod which I may grind a tenon on but also just thought about adding a gusset between the rod and the nut. That may prove to be both easier and stronger in the long run.
It's clear by my experience that the current crop of replacement ejectors are not up to the task. I do have an "old stock" ejector coming from EMF so I will compare it to one of the new ones.
The other item I'd love to see enhances is the hand assembly. I use 2 of those a year (usually at the most inopertune times Smiley). It would be nice to be able to just replace the spring like you can on an 1858. I had heard that someone had them modified to use paino wire but I'ne not been able to find a source for that.
I have a new (bought last year) 1890 remington copy in 44-40 and have had no issues at all with the ejector rod. The hand spring broke and I replaced it with a piece of a bobby pin. Works quite well. On another thread you mention that a full BP load will cause your cylinder pin to release and jam your gun. I have had no problems with full BP loads in mine and that's all I shoot. I used to own a twenty year old 1875 remmie and had none of these problems with that one either. Honestly, it sounds like your particular gun has a QC problem.
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he's got two of them with the same problem.
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Still doesn't mean it isn't bad QC. Heck, the 1890 I bought new last year had a barrel that you could unscrew with your hand. Like I said, I have been shooting remington replicas for almost twenty years and have never had any problems with ejector rods breaking or cylinder pins coming loose with full BP loads. All of the 75/90 remmies I have owned, seven over the years in both .45 and .44-40, have been fantastic and tough shooters, and full BP loads is all I shoot out of them. Only thing to ever break on any of them is the trigger or hand spring which is a simple fix. In fact I just bought another (used) 75 replica that should be delivered to the gun shop today. 7 1/2 .44-40 with a nickel finish.
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I have only had these two 1875 clones for several years with no problems.
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So I think figured it out. It has nothing to do with ejecting the shells, it's the recoil. The ejector is slamming forward and bending the nut until it siezes on the cylinder pin or breaks. Totally explains why I just had one rod (head still in the gun) fall off as I shot a stage.
Maybe they made the spring lighter??
I soldered some gussets, I'm going to try and find a heavier spring...any suggestion...from a colt maybe?
The crude drawing attached tries to depict how the head is bending from being slammed into the end of the ejector housu\ing and binding oon the cylinder pin.
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MJN77,
I've actually not shot 44-40 but I do cram a good 40 gr of BP into my cases and compress them quite a bit with my Big Lube JP-200's and while they won't knock the pin out every time once a match is enough to cause me to lighted the load. I shoot that load in my 60 and 66.
My normal pistol load is about 24 gr so that's not much yet I will bend an ejector enough to cause it to bind after about 8 or 10 stages......It has to be the springs I'm thinkin'
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MJN77,
I've actually not shot 44-40 but I do cram a good 40 gr of BP into my cases and compress them quite a bit
So do I. 40gr. of 3F under a 200gr. RNFP lead bullet. I have fired up to a box of shells at a time and have never had the cylinder pin come loose. I hate that you're having these kinds of stupid little problems with your shooters. It can be a pain in the butt. Hope you get it figured out.
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So I think figured it out. It has nothing to do with ejecting the shells, it's the recoil. The ejector is slamming forward and bending the nut until it siezes on the cylinder pin or breaks. Totally explains why I just had one rod (head still in the gun) fall off as I shot a stage.
Maybe they made the spring lighter??
I soldered some gussets, I'm going to try and find a heavier spring...any suggestion...from a colt maybe?
The crude drawing attached tries to depict how the head is bending from being slammed into the end of the ejector housu\ing and binding oon the cylinder pin.
yo
it very well could be a stiffer spring could be the cure if recoil is indeed the problem.
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So now I'm not sure. I put a piece of tape behind the ejector rod so I could see what's going on and fired off some rounds...it didnt move so recoil is not the problem.
I called VTI Gun parts and Jim said that he has heard of issues like mine caused by the head rubbing on the holster and bending. I checked my holsters and that doesn't seem to be the case but I'm expanding them a bit now just in case. Nothing seems to make sense the more I investigate since the head would have to bend in the opposite direction from what it doing if it was indeed me shoving gthe guns into my holsters.
I'm now heading off for a weekend in the woods with my granddaughters and will worry more about it next week.
Thanks for all the comments.
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ya I can see where that can cause problems
when I make a holster for a 1875 I open up the barrel end a bit more for the ejector rod and nut to have plenty of room for a fall in fit.
you dont want any drag or obstruction in the holster that will catch the nut on that part of the pistol removeing and replacing the pistols should be a smooth easy transition
I would add that it should not require very much force at all to eject a spent cartridge certanly way less than it would take to bend or brake the rod.
but anyway have a great camping experience with your grand children!
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Two matches since my last post and I haven't had any issue. I did make room in the holster for the ejector so hopefully that's that.
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Hello Forum,
I am a new member and I am having this issue with my 1875 Remington revolver.
I believe it is caused by me working the ejector with some "push", and when the ejector head hits the front of the frame, the ejector rod cutout is overriding the cut out in the cylinder base pin. This is causing the ejector rod to flex at the ejector head, and after awhile, the ejector rod fails.
I ordered a new ejector rod from VTI, it works just fine. I believe if I just don't push the ejector rod all the way to the frame, I will be good. I am considering making a new ejector rod and cutting the cutout an extra half inch or so to see if my theory is correct. Then the ejector rod would be able to go all the way to the frame and not override the cutout in the cylinder pin.
Rabbit
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Rabbit, after trying everything over the course of 3 seasons I finally found the culprit and fix. The holsters were causing the issue. I wet them and used dowels to stretch the leather so that the ejector tab wasn't rubbing or being pressed against the holster....problem solved.
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Hello Wagon Box Willy,
I DO carry my Remington 1875 in a holster, if you are right, that is a easy fix! I will give it a try, thanks for the information.
Rabbit
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Had the same problem with an EMF 1875 44-40, the Problem was 2 fold, 1 the threading in the barrel for the screw holding ejector assembly was bad, not on the correct angle causing the assembly to loosen up, thus bending the ejection rod when used. The answer was soldering a nut, into the barrel like Colt SAA , so the proper angle was achieved, also shorting the rod a hair so it would not touch the rear of the frame. The holster was never problem. All the bluing on the ejector "button" is gone from holster wear. The problem was poor QC. There is also a hair line space between the web and the frame, another sign of poor alignment and threading of the hole in the barrel, it only took EMF 5 tries to solve the problem