NMV - trigger not fully resetting

[TheOtherLeft]

Hi guys,

I have a 38 spl New Vaquero which is new and I've only shot about 70 rounds through it.

There's a small problem with the trigger not fully resetting after firing or dry firing. It's such that the firing pin remains slightly proud of the frame after pulling the trigger. If I slightly wriggle the trigger or hammer the pin fully retracts and is back to normal.

During firing sequences it's not a problem since I have to cock the hammer anyway.

I've cleaned the Vaquero as best as I can without stripping it (I just remove the cylinder etc for general cleaning). I've pulled the grips off and sprayed automotive degreaser in there and worked the action...but no success.

I can push the firing pin in from the rear (transfer bar side) with a small screwdriver and it springs back easily, so I think it's not the firing pin rebound spring.

Maybe it's something in the trigger mechanism catching?

What do you guys think?

Thanks.

[Pettifogger]

On the NMV the transfer bar is thicker at the top.  Sometimes when the hammer falls this thick part will get caught between the hammer and the frame.  Pull the trigger and the next time it does this just put your thumb on the hammer and move it back just a little.  If the trigger then jumps forward it sounds like you might have to polish the transfer bar just a bit.  Polish the bump part that faces the rear, not the front face that contacts the firing pin.

[Trailrider]

If the gun is brand new, I would take it back to the dealer or send it to Ruger for repair.  OTOH, have you had the grip panels off? It might be that the trigger return spring legs are rubbing on the mainspring. Also check to be sure the spring legs are connected to the projections on te frame. Otherwise, it might be a burr or metal machine particle that is interferring with the free action of the trigger. If you aren't sure, get a gunsmith who knows Rugers.

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[TheOtherLeft]

On the NMV the transfer bar is thicker at the top.  Sometimes when the hammer falls this thick part will get caught between the hammer and the frame.  Pull the trigger and the next time it does this just put your thumb on the hammer and move it back just a little.  If the trigger then jumps forward it sounds like you might have to polish the transfer bar just a bit.  Polish the bump part that faces the rear, not the front face that contacts the firing pin.

Hi Pettifogger,  Which part of the transfer bar do you mean?



Thanks again.

[Pettifogger]

If you look at the transfer bar in the diagram, i.e., part number 41, you will send the bump at the top of the transfer bar on the NMV.  The OMV did not have this bump.  Sometimes it is a little to thick and the hammer presses it directly against the frame and the trigger return spring does not have enough power to pull it free.

One way to see if this is happening is when the trigger is stuck to the rear, hold the gun sideways and look at the hammer.  Then pull/push the trigger forward.  If the hammer moves forward a few thousands of an inch, it was sitting on the transfer bar.  If it does not move, you have other problems.

[TheOtherLeft]

If you look at the transfer bar in the diagram, i.e., part number 41, you will send the bump at the top of the transfer bar on the NMV.  The OMV did not have this bump.  Sometimes it is a little to thick and the hammer presses it directly against the frame and the trigger return spring does not have enough power to pull it free.

One way to see if this is happening is when the trigger is stuck to the rear, hold the gun sideways and look at the hammer.  Then pull/push the trigger forward.  If the hammer moves forward a few thousands of an inch, it was sitting on the transfer bar.  If it does not move, you have other problems.

Hi Pettifogger,

You've nailed it one. When I push the trigger when it's stuck to the rear the hammer does move forward slightly.

Does the hammer profile look right to you? As you can see there's a slight ridge vertically down the centre of the hammer. The right side is slightly proud relative to the left side. Could this be catching on the transfer bar?



On my other NMV there's no ridge down the middle of the hammer and is smooth.

Is this the bump on the transfer bar you mean?

[Pettifogger]

Yep, the bottom picture is the "bump".  The old models don't have this bump.  The hammer is cast and then hardened after they are machined.  They are very HARD.  You probably won't be able to file the hammer face flat.  If you decide to true up the sides on either side of the casting line, you will probably have to use an abrasive stone rather than a file.  Can't tell from the photo how bad the offset in the hammer face is.  The guns will work OK as is, but it bugs me when the trigger won't reset without pulling the hammer back.  I always replace the mainsprings with lighter ones.  Sometimes just doing that eliminates the problem as there is less pressure by the hammer on the transfer bar.  A little polishing on the hammer face and/or the T bar can also sure the problem.

[rickk]

Ruger is a totally no-hassle company to deal with.

 Call them or email them and they will fix it for free.

It may come back even better than you think.