**UPDATED** I just bought a 56-56 Spencer Carbine and would like to shoot it

[buckstix]

I just bought a Spencer Carbine and would really like to shoot it, so now I need a few pieces of 56-56 brass. Every place I look is sold out ... can someone spare a few pieces, or tell me where to look?

ADDED PICTURE

[El Supremo]

Hello, Buckstix:

There are different calibers and models of Spencer's.
Please share details, and clear photo's of your Spencer showing markings on top of receiver with serial number.

If you merely want to fire it as a rim-fire, try Dixie Arms for cases that take a 22RF as the primer.
These work with the original upper rim fire block.

If wish to use center fire cases, a conversion upper block is required.
Our Forum has a section "Spencer Oft Requested Info" ("SORI"), which covers all this in detail.

I might be able to spare some cases, but they are centerfire. 
You would need the block and loading dies, etc.
Buffalo Arms has most items, but cases are on backlog.
You can email me if wish.  Smiles.
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

[buckstix]

I haven't been able to locate new Dixie rimfire  brass or any centerfire brass ... .. I would like 6 of either if anyone has some to help me out ... I'm a machinist and can modify the centerfire brass into Dixie style rimfire so either will work.  thanks

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[El Supremo]

Hello, Buckstix:

I mailed you 16 new Starline 50-90 Sharps cases.  Tx for your address.
You can shorten them. 
For 56-50 use, I have not needed to ream mouths, but the shortened case
will need fresh annealing
These should have the correct rim diameter for original Spencer 56-56/50 chamber rim cuts.
No charge for cases, but would appreciate you posting your Spencer details.
Smiles and thanks.
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

[Trailrider]

I just bought a Spencer Carbine and would really like to shoot it, so now I need a few pieces of 56-56 brass. Every place I look is sold out ... can someone spare a few pieces, or tell me where to look?

I don't know of any commercially available .56-56 cartridges, but, if you are talking centralfire, they can be made from .50-70 brass shortened, neck reamed (if straight-sided, inside lubed bullets are to be used), or not (if heel bullets are used), annealed about half the length of the case. You also might have to turn the rims slightly, depending on the actual rim diameter versus what will feed. The groove diameter of the rifling on the M1860 Spencer Carbines I have examined tapered from .545" just ahead of the chamber to .535" at the muzzle! I used .538" hardcast bullets when I was shooting one. Be sure to have the gun checked out by a gunsmith who knows about original Spencers, as the M1860 are around 164 years old!
Best of luck and safe shooting!

[buckstix]

ADDED PICTURES

[Hair Trigger Jim]

Don't know about the rest of you, but I can see the pictures if I right click and open image in new tab, even though I can't see it in the thread.

[Coal Creek Griff]

Don't know about the rest of you, but I can see the pictures if I right click and open image in new tab, even though I can't see it in the thread.

Thanks! That works for me too.

Griff

[buckstix]

thanks to all for the reply -

I have searched all sources for a replacement centerfire breech block but cant find one - any one have one they would like to sell?

[DJ]

I don't have one for sale, but Dixie Gun Works and S&S Firearms both show them in stock. 

Did you check with them already?

--DJ

[buckstix]

THANKS - I placed an order with Dixie, but not sure if they are in stock or not.

[buckstix]

Hello, Buckstix:

I mailed you 16 new Starline 50-90 Sharps cases.  Tx for your address.
You can shorten them. 
For 56-50 use, I have not needed to ream mouths, but the shortened case
will need fresh annealing
These should have the correct rim diameter for original Spencer 56-56/50 chamber rim cuts.
No charge for cases, but would appreciate you posting your Spencer details.
Smiles and thanks.
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

just a note to let you know the brass arrived ... now waiting for the Dixie breech block

thanks

[El Supremo]

Thanks, Buckstix:

Looking at the photo's you graciously provided, I wonder, please,
if Two Flints has any historical perspective on #40242.

Very respectfully,
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

[buckstix]

who is Two Flints ? ... I noticed there is a "1" stamped on the toe of the butt plate.  I wonder what that could mean?

[El Supremo]

Hello, again:

Thanks for asking.
"Two Flints" is our Forum Moderator.
He was involved when you joined.
Smiles.
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

[buckstix]

Hello El Supremo,

I wish to thank you publicly for all your help and guidance with my newly acquired Spencer carbine.

To fellow forum members, I had a near catastrophe with my carbine.  Here's the story.  El Supremo had warned me to make sure the stock was secure with no wiggle before shooting my carbine, or else the stock would be damaged.  My stock was in fact "very very loose".  El Supremo guided me through the disassembly of the carbine and how to check and correct a loose stock.  Much to my surprise, after I removed the Lock and the saddle ring bar and the trigger tang, THE STOCK FELL OFF.  Those 3 things were all that were keeping the stock attached to the action because the outer magazine tube had broken off at the point where it screwed into the back of the action.  I had a hard time removing the tube from the stock because all the gunk and dried oil had it so stuck that I had to use a mallet to remove it.  After it was removed, I cleaned the tube which allowed easy insertion back into the stock.  Next I soaked the broken end of the tube, that was still in the action, with penetrating oil.  About an hour later I used a tapered spade-bit wood drill that I wedged into the broken tube, to remove it.   

As you can see in the top picture, the nut at the end of the tube was "full on" the tube.  It was frozen in place.  I clamped the tube in the jaws of my lathe's 3-jaw chuck and with some heat and a 18" wrench I was able remove the nut.  I then cleaned and lapped the threads with fine valve grinding compound on both ends of the tube. (using the nut)  The tube had full 3/4 inches of thread at one end (the nut end)  but only had 1/8 inches of thread left on the broken end. (the 1/8 inch had 2 threads left)

Next I cleaned and de-greased the remaining 1/8 inches of threads on the broken end, and cleaned and de-greased the lock nut threads.  I then used red loc-tite and "torqued" the nut onto the 2 remaining threads on the broken end of the tube with an 18" wrench.  Next I greased the outer tube, and the 3/4" of threads, and inserted it into the stock and screwed it into the action "finger tight". Then I attached the lock, the trigger assembly, and the saddle ring bar.  I then clamped the rifle stock vertical into a padded woodworking vise, and "super-torqued" the tube into the action with an 18" wrench.  I finally checked  for clearance of the screws that passed under the tube, and used a 1/8" dia round file to provide clearance where necessary. 

I was very lucky that this repair worked as well as it did. The tube threaded into the action to within a bit less than 1/16" from bottoming fully into the action.  The stock is now absolutely solid and ready for firing.

thanks again to El Supremo for his guidance allowing me to perform this task.  It only took me 3 hours from start to finish.

PICTURES ....

the top 2 picture show the tube after removal and cleaning. 

the 3rd picture shows the broken end still in the action.  the tube had broken flush with the back of the action.  the rust on the edge of the broken end shows this was a break from long ago.

the 4th picture shows the broken end of the tube.

the 5th picture shows the "reversed" tube with the nut permanently attached to the broken end.








 

[El Supremo]

Thanks, Buckstix:
Very helpful information. A machinist, you are.
I sent you an email to inspect the outer edge in the receiver magazine tube hole
for interference with bullet nose passage.  Sometimes softer bullets can rub there.
If so, that spot can be polished through the top of the receiver. 
Oh, good to hear that the serial number on the bottom of the barrel matches the frame's.
Super photo's.  Hugs and smiles. 
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

[buckstix]

Well, the centerfire breech-block arrived today from Dixie Gun Works.  I spent over 2 hours fitting it to the Carbine so that it would function ... But, it turns out this was a colossal waste of time.  When I tested it on a primed cartridge, the firing pin strike wasn't even close to igniting the primer.  It was off center to the bottom of the primer.  There is no adjustment that could change this shortcoming.  I plan on sending it back and ordering one from S&S.  Hope that one has the correct dimension.  Also, the block was so soft that the 2 test strikes on a primed case raised a large burr on the back of the firing pin.   

[DJ]

That is unfortunate.  Were you able to determine if the firing pin was hitting too high or too low?  Or was it to the side?  If it's a vertical thing, it might be curable, but you'd also have to harden the back of the firing pin, and I agree, there is only so much "fixin'" you should have to do on a brand new, supposedly drop-in item.

Also, any chance you took a picture of the disassembled block?  I'm curious about how it's set up inside.

Hope S&S pans out better.

--DJ

[buckstix]

..... When I tested it on a primed cartridge, the firing pin strike wasn't even close to igniting the primer. It was off center to the bottom of the primer.  ....