Well, stuck, years ago I saved instructions on removing the rifle forend from 3 different people. I will include them all and let you sort it out.
2008, manatee says:
I fiMd it easiest to remove the mag cap, spring & follower first. Then drive out the pin in the magazine band. Remove the screws in the forend cap. Slide the forend forward slightly and wiggle out the mag tube. Then the wood must come down and slightly forward. Careful you don't chip the dadoed (inletted) portion that is inserted in the receiver.
The screws can be a real bear. Be prepared to buy new ones.
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2005, Wistful McClintock says:
Remove the two screws holding the Forearm Cap. The Forearm Mounting Bracket is dovetailed to the barrel and held by the magazine tube. The magazine tube is held in place by a pin in the front magazine carrier. This pin must be removed and the magazine tube moved forward (or removed entirely) until the magazine tube clears the forearm Cap, at which time the Forearm Mounting Bracket should easily slide out, mine is very loose. Then the Forearm can be slid forward and removed.
The Magazine Tube may be tight where it fits into the Receiver. To remove mine, I unscrewed the Magazine End Plug enough to get a nylon punch to rest against the lip of the Plug and then tap on it until the Magazine Tube comes free of the Receiver. I would recommend that the Magazine Spring and the Magazine Follower be removed, before removing the Magazine Tube.
Be careful that you don’t scratch the Magazine Tube with the Forearm Cap when sliding either of them in or out, it is real easy to do. I was lucky in that my scratch occurred on a portion of the Tube that is cover by the Forearm.
There are three possible difficulties when putting everything back together.
The first being the Magazine Tube may not want to line up with the hole in the Receiver because of pressure from the Forearm Mounting Bracket or the Forearm itself, and instead butt up against the Receiver. I used a wooden dowel inserted into the Magazine Tube to help align the tube with the hole, a stout cleaning rod would probably work too, but I felt the wooden dowel would be less likely to scratch the inside of the tube. Once the tube is lined up with the hole, it will slip part way in, just tap it the rest of the way in, I used a wooden mallet so as not to mar the end of the tube.
Two, the screw holes on my Forearm Mounting Bracket are off center. It is a good idea to check this alignment before removing the piece, so that you get the bracket back on properly and the holes align with the holes in the Forearm Cap.
Three, notice that there is a small groove cut into the Magazine Tube that must align with the holes in the Magazine Tube Carrier that the pin that goes through. I found that the Magazine Tube could be turned fairly easily using the Magazine Plug and a wide screwdriver. Once you get the groove lined up with the pin hole, then tap in the pin.
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2007, Driftwood Johnson says:
The forend surounds the magazine tube. You cannot remove the forend until you slide the magazine tube forward enough to clear the forend, and remove the underlying dovetailed piece the forend cap screws into. Most of the exploded drawings available show carbines and they are useless for this task.
First, carefully remove the 2 screws in the forend cap. Be careful because they are short, and their threaded holes in the dovetailed piece underneath are easily cross threaded. They are often not screwed in perfectly perpendicular. For safey's sake, mark which screw came out of which hole. Then slide the forend cap forward. Again be careful, the fit against the magazine or barrel may be so tight that it mars the blue on the magazine or barrel. If it is a tight fit, it only needs to come forward enough to clear the underlying piece.
Now take a small punch and drive out the small horizontal pin holding the magazine in place in the forward magazine hanger. Do not marr the pin, or its slot in the magazine. That is all that keeps the magazine in place against recoil. Trust me on this. Once that pin has been removed the magazine can be slid forward. It may need a little persuasion to get it going. Be careful as you slide the magazine forward, the follower will be loose. It may stay in the receiver, it may come with the magazine. Don't loose the follower.
Once the magazine tube has cleared the forend you can slide the dovetailed piece under the forend cap out to one side. I dunno the name of this piece, it doesn't show up on the exploded digrams of the carbines. This piece may slide out easier to one side or the other, mine does. You can also remove the forend cap now, once the magazine clears it.
Now, the forend is finally free to remove. Slide it about 1/8" forward to release it from the relief in the frame. You may have to slide a knife between the rear of the forend and the frame to pry it loose. Be very careful, do not dent or chip the wood. Hopefully you can pull it forward just by hand. Once the forend comes forward off the frame, it will lift straight off. Now you can look and see how everything interlocks and why you have to remove all this stuff to get the forend off. If you want to remove the forward magazine hanger, it rotates in its dovetail, it does not drive out from the side.
This is a good oportunity to inspect your magazine spring for rust. Slide the magazine tube the rest of the way out, and slide out the spring. Clean it if necessary.
This all sounds very complicated, but it really isn't difficult. The key is, the magazine slides into the forend with a hole that envelopes the tube, so you have to get the magazine out of the way to get the wood off.
Reverse the procedure to reassesmble. Don't forget the follower, if you removed it.