Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
Special Interests - Groups & Societies => Shotguns => Topic started by: Hargrave on January 09, 2017, 12:07:13 PM
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Ok,
I am sure this has been asked before somewhere and I may be opening up a can of worms .....
I am looking to do some bulk purchasing of shotgun shells for hitting those plates ....
Suggestions?
Jacob
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Most shoots I go to, the guys shooting factory shotshells are usually shooting Winchester AA "Low Noise, Low Recoil" shells The part number is AA12FL8. They used to be called Featherlights with a yellow feather on the box, but after redesigning the boxes there is no more feather, although there is still a feather printed on shell itself.
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+1 on the Win AA Low Noise, Low recoil comment. I use these shells for my BP loads, so hope folks keep with this trend!
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Good stuff !!
Thank you. I am a BIG black powder fan and thought about shooting up several factory loads and then saving the shells to reload in black ... I guess that is the way to go ...
Thanks,
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Nah. You gonna shoot BP out of an 1878, do it right. ALL BRASS hulls. Absolutely the Bizzz.
Coffinmaker
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If anyone is interested .... I found this youtube video today that I thought was pretty cool.
Reloading Black Powder Shotgun Shells without Dies
https://youtu.be/fFYNQIwZf6k
Now I am going to have to get some brass shells and load some up. I will need to get some shot and wads ... but I can make the rest based on what I have in the garage ...
I will let you know how it works
Jake
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Here is as long and rambling post from THE DARK ARTS. In it there is much info about metallic shotshell loading. No videos that I recall, but browse around;
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,9733.0.html
I load my magtechs with common or homemade tools. It's not hard at all.
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Hammering on a live primer is, in my opinion, not a real great idea. That is how primers work by being hit.
Not long ago I had two primers pop in my MEC press. Why I really don't know it is the first time in the thousands of shot shells I have loaded. The primer punch was clean and slick no unusual force was applied just a loud bang...twice. perhaps a couple of extra sensitive primers I really do not know. They were Cheddite a brand I have used a lot so go figure.
Just sayin'
Bunk
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Hargrave: I clicked on the link you provided, and was surprised and delighted to see that the author of the video is none other than our very own Eddie Blackwater of the Chilako Vigilance Committee here in Prince George, British Columbia.
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I use Winchester AA hulls. They take a beating but keep on ticking.
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Nah. You gonna shoot BP out of an 1878, do it right. ALL BRASS hulls. Absolutely the Bizzz.
Coffinmaker
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This. I shoot just under 80 grains of black and 1 1/8 lead and I love it. Yes, it's a labor of love but who cares.
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I buy the Remington STS shotshells for dove season and then use the hulls for my black powder reloads in matches. They are far superior to the new improved ::) AA hulls. I have found that the AA's will stick in the chambers while the Remington hulls fly out. They also crimp better in my MEC jr.
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The gold NITRO 27 shells are the same as STS but look like brass. I'm not sure they are still available?
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First thing is what are you shooting them in? I've always heard that ribbed shells are sticky in a double but if they're for a 97 no problem. In my opinion, for regular smokeless powder, clays-red dot etc, WW AAs are the easiest to reload, they are slick and reload nicely. As far as using black I can't tell you which is the best hull or wad. Plastic wads and black powder will coat your bores with nasty, don't ask me how I know. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
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If you cut hulls down to 2-1/2" and do a roll crimp, the range pickup that are left behind because the star crimp region is getting to worn out work well and are always free.
Shoot them once and toss them.
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If you cut hulls down to 2-1/2" and do a roll crimp, the range pickup that are left behind because the star crimp region is getting to worn out work well and are always free.
Shoot them once and toss them.
I do that. After the roll crimp I run them through the final stage of my MEC Grabber to do the slight taper at the crimp.
The final answer is to use the shell that shucks out the easiest.
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Another vote for the Remington STS. They're what the AA used to be.
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First thing is what are you shooting them in? I've always heard that ribbed shells are sticky in a double but if they're for a 97 no problem. In my opinion, for regular smokeless powder, clays-red dot etc, WW AAs are the easiest to reload, they are slick and reload nicely. As far as using black I can't tell you which is the best hull or wad. Plastic wads and black powder will coat your bores with nasty, don't ask me how I know. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
BP "nasty" will clean out with one wet paper towel pushed thru the barrel. Leaves a mirror finish. Much easier to clean after BP than smokiless powder.
wM1
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Howdy
STS from Remington and I use the Nitro 27 gold hulls for my Vintage Hunting load .
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I have found that ALL R-P products seem to work equally well. STS and Nitro 27 are top of the line, and the older Blue Peters shells are about the same. "Gun Club" of all vintages work almost as well, and that is what I use for "gunpowder."
That is when I'm not using Magtechs ;)
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I acquire whatever I can as cheap or as free as I can. I cut the star crimp off, load with a BP load, roll crimp, shoot and toss in to the trash.
Sometimes Ballistic Products has once fired stuff for 3-4 cents a hull.
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I just got 100 of the Nitro 27s, possibly over purchased there... Anyways can they be reused numerous times with BP if used the cut/glued method?
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AA's hulls, wiped with a little bit of silicon based furniture polish before match. STS's work, if your reloading don't buy any you'll find all you need in the trash at any good gun range. Brass are for cool factor only, not really pc and do take a bit more to load. They are also finicky if different shotguns are used. WARNING! Then there is the primer issue, i have personally had two or three spark off while setting them. Never had a 209 set off while loading them traditionally.
My favorite to load is a paper hull with a rolled crimp.
Dick's sporting goods used to give a discount in the case (250 rounds) of AA's .
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Brass Hulls for cool factor only??? Harrumpff!! My Brass hulls load in ALL my double guns without problems unless some hammhock steps on one. Primers don't "spark off" when seated correctly. Brass hulls are slow to load (in the gun). I don't expect to win any "Speed Shotgun" awards with All Brass hulls. Oh, almost forgot, a belt full of All Brass hulls is very very KOOL!!
PS: In my case, I'm too old and slow too be reaching for the Brass Ring. Therefore, looking very KOOL while not catching the Brass Ring is very important. Big 'Ol Brass Hulls contribute as much as the Goggles on my HAT ::)
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And you can get a LOT more stuffin in a brassie.
wM1
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Brass Hulls for cool factor only??? Harrumpff!! My Brass hulls load in ALL my double guns without problems unless some hammhock steps on one. Primers don't "spark off" when seated correctly. Brass hulls are slow to load (in the gun). I don't expect to win any "Speed Shotgun" awards with All Brass hulls. Oh, almost forgot, a belt full of All Brass hulls is very very KOOL!!
PS: In my case, I'm too old and slow too be reaching for the Brass Ring. Therefore, looking very KOOL while not catching the Brass Ring is very important. Big 'Ol Brass Hulls contribute as much as the Goggles on my HAT ::)
Yep cool only!
And you can get a LOT more stuffin in a brassie.
wM1
You are right about more stuff. I am more than guilty of that.
I would never lead someone i don't know to begin loading them. There is way too much to learn first. But if you want i will leave here for ever..
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Why would you wanna do dat?? Don't sell your saddle yet Rooster.
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Some good stuff here, but the OP was not about reloading and was answered well in the first reply. My issue with the Winchester rebate is that with purchase of a whole case, I have to go through and ruin ever box by cutting the bar code out. New boxes are 45 cents plus shipping. Yes, I can tape them up.
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I don't understand :o Why would you have to remove the Bar Code from every box??
Duh. Just figured it out. Rebate per individual box of hulls. Would have to cut the Bar Code out of ALL the boxes in that case.
Wonder if WW would accept the Bar Code from the Case??
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Yep cool only!
You are right about more stuff. I am more than guilty of that.
I would never lead someone i don't know to begin loading them. There is way too much to learn first. But if you want i will leave here for ever..
That would not be right.
Stick around .
Maybe ya can help CM lead someone astray.
;)
wM1
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I don't understand :o Why would you have to remove the Bar Code from every box??
Duh. Just figured it out. Rebate per individual box of hulls. Would have to cut the Bar Code out of ALL the boxes in that case.
Wonder if WW would accept the Bar Code from the Case??
No.
They used to.
I think it is because you could get a rebate from both.
But then again what do I know.
After all I read everything CM posts.
Almost.
wM1