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CAS TOPICS => Gunsmithing => Topic started by: r0gue on November 06, 2005, 07:30:55 AM

Title: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: r0gue on November 06, 2005, 07:30:55 AM
Hi all!  First post to CCFH!  Link to great Antiquing "How-To"

http://members.cox.net/longshot_logan/Metal%20Antiquing.htm (http://members.cox.net/longshot_logan/Metal%20Antiquing.htm)

r0gue
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Marshal Will Wingam on November 06, 2005, 05:23:36 PM
Great post on how to make 'em look old. Thanks for posting the link. Thanks to Rio, also, for putting this here in gunsmithing.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: jiminy criquet on November 10, 2005, 03:07:18 PM
Quote
Please forgive me for totally and utterly desecrating this brand new EMF Great Western II Single Action. I wanted to use this gun as it was a perfect example and had no wear or damage (until I got my hands on it).

LOL!  That's a damn shame to do that to a brand spanking new revolver, IMHO.  If you want it to look 'old', then use it for a while or buy a used one for cripe's sake.

With that said...if you absolutely must have an 'antique' look , then I would recommend using ferric chloride...available at Radio Shack stores as 'circuit board etchant'.  It's amber-colored stuff that comes in a plastic bottle and sells for a few dollars.  Dillute it 3-to-1 or 4-to-1 parts ferric chloride to distilled water (i.e. 3 parts distilled water, 1 part ferric chloride.  (The higher the concentration of FC, the more agressive the etching.)  You can wipe it on with a cloth or submerse the parts.  Ferric chloride leaves a grey oxide coating on the gun that repels rust.  When you're done etching the parts, simply wash them off with dishwashing detergent and hot water to neutralize the FC.  Then douche the parts with WD-40, and steel wool the finish to your taste.  Keep covered with WD-40 or a good coat of oil overnight so that the oxide coating soaks up as much rust preventative as possible to further protect the gun from rust.  (Don't forget to strip the bluing from the gun and degrease the parts before using the Ferric Chloride....see below.)

Word to the wise:  Don't dump the Ferric Chloride down the drain after you're done, as it will eat your pipes.  Put the diluted FC solution in a plastic container with a sealable lid, (like Tupperware) and label it for next time, as it's reuseable and doesn't get contaminated in the etching process.  Cool stuff.

Here's some other hints for this process:
Common brake cleaner is a cheap and effective degreaser.

Muratic acid is an excellent remover of gun bluing and all around metal stripper.  Muratic acid can be found in your grocery store under the guise of toilet cleaning products...read the labels.  I use some type of 'scrubbing bubble' tablets.  2 or 3 of them in a few cups of distilled water usually does the job on a gun frame.  (You can also get distilled water at the grocery store....but don't drink it as it sucks the minerals out of your body and will eventually kill you.  Besides, it tastes like crap.)
When I'm done with the stuff I dump it in the toilet and clean the toilet afterwards.

Now the legal stuff:  I'm not responsible if you fail to read and understand the product labels and follow common safety practices ....like wearing rubber gloves, not breathing vapors, using proper ventilation and/or wearing a vapor respirator (about $25 at Home Depot), etc., etc., etc.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Yankee John on November 11, 2005, 08:29:29 AM
That is a great how-to,  and I used basically the same method when I redid my Uberti Cattleman.  I just had to do something to get rid of that "matte blued" finish!

The only real difference that I did was that I used Flitz polish in the very end.

Here is a pic of the completed Uberti:
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Silver Creek Slim on November 11, 2005, 01:15:53 PM
That is a great how-to,  and I used basically the same method when I redid my Uberti Cattleman.  I just had to do something to get rid of that "matte blued" finish!

The only real difference that I did was that I used Flitz polish in the very end.

Here is a pic of the completed Uberti:
Looks good.

Slim
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Remington Kid on November 13, 2005, 07:11:27 PM
On the two Remingtons that I have had for a few years now we just used Birchwood Caseies blue remover. Works fast and easy, no muss ,no fuss. Then rinse with clean water and use Plumb brown or any of the "Rust Blueing methods " to get the Patina to the stage you like.I prefer the rust blueing and carding but it does take a little longer. Mike
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Paladin UK on December 06, 2005, 01:33:45 PM
Thought I`d throw my hat into the ring too :)

(http://images.snapfish.com/3456%3A%3C7923232%7Ffp58%3Dot%3E2348%3D786%3D%3A6%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B783632%3B%3Aot1lsi)

This is my ASM that I have ...antiqued

Paladin  (What lurvs the holy black :D ) UK
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dakota Widowmaker on December 08, 2005, 11:38:07 AM
Did you flitz it with a cloth, 0000 steel wool, or dremel and buffer?

I REALLY like the looks of your Uberti after your finishing...gotta get that done to mine as well.
(I too like B-C rust-blue remover...have used it in the past on guns with GREAT success)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Yankee John on December 08, 2005, 01:07:51 PM
Dakota,  Just used an old T-shirt.

John
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dakota Widowmaker on December 12, 2005, 12:08:57 AM
SUCCESS!!!

I just did it to my first Millenium. I had to get 3 new screwdrivers to tear my revolver down, but, its all finished.

I did it just as you said, but, used 0000 steel wool.

I need to go over a few areas again, but, 1 application of permablue, 2 applications of plum brown, and finish off with flitz gives it a nice finish.

I stoned the hammer, sear, and some of the internal surfaces. (clean up...nothing fancy)

I will take my dremel to the main spring later on.

Between it and the unmodified one, I can feel the difference in trigger smoothness and feel. Everything just feels "smother" having refinished it as well as stoned the surfaces.

(plus, giving it a good clean up and lube job never hurts)

Thanks for the tips!!!
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: deucedaddyj on December 12, 2005, 03:18:16 PM
That is pretty darn cool. I might have to try it on the "Widowmaker" (so called, because it's caused me so much stress, if I was married my wife would be a widow by now) Iver Johnson/Uberti Cattleman.

Palidin: Boy, our avatars are a little close for comfort, aren't they? If you want me to, I'd be glad to change mine. Yours looks better anyways.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dakota Widowmaker on December 12, 2005, 10:03:04 PM
Well, I did the second Uberti Millenium.

Turned out better than the first one!!! (I did a better job of bluing and I used a hotter temp for the browing)

Man, it looks so good after cleanup with the Flitz, I could swear it was color case hardened (if I didn't know better).

Both actions are smooth now. (both need another 500rds through them and they should be good to go for this next season)

Anyone who thinks this is hard has nothing to be affraid of. Just take your time and go slowly.

A good bit of bluing with Permablue PASTE is what made the difference.

don't forget to get the temp up before browning. (350 on my stove worked just fine)
[do the browning twice and after the second time, let er sit for 10min so it has time to react]

Pics to follow...
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dakota Widowmaker on December 13, 2005, 10:46:39 PM
OK, here is some eye candy.

[edited: sorry, lost those pics and no longer have those guns... life goes on]
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Yankee John on December 14, 2005, 12:24:41 AM
Looking great Dakota!  They look like they are 100 years old. 

John
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: LazyK Pejay on December 21, 2005, 08:38:04 AM
Good job on both pistols. I am not sure I like the brass on the UBerti though, but the grips look great. Thx.

LazyK Pejay
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dakota Widowmaker on December 26, 2005, 01:13:12 PM
LP-

Yeah, the brass is either anodized or bead blasted with a parkerized style surface.

I am going to sand it down smooth then let nature take its course with the surface finish.

I could blacken it with chemical agents...but why?

Brass grips don't make it any less fun to shoot.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Revolvr on January 01, 2006, 03:02:14 PM
These antiqued SAA's in the photos look great. I think I might give it a shot.

Question: My SAA clone has the "Charcoal Blue" that Uberti and Cimarron advertise. Is this bluing removed just like the other?

Also, what happens to the color case hardened frame? Seems like this technique would cover that finish as well.

-- Clay
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dakota Widowmaker on January 08, 2006, 10:55:00 PM
Yes, the bluing from Uberti and others is the same. It can be removed with plain old "naval jelly" or "bluing rust remover"

Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Revolvr on January 10, 2006, 09:45:37 AM

So if I can summarize, it seems the real difference in this process is the cold blueing before browning.

The photos in the original web link show a distressed antiqued finish. But some of the photos that have been posted since show a very even newer look.

So is the difference in the blueing and browning, or is it in the care and time taken in the cleaning/degreasing/polishing preparation?

Does this end up hiding the case-hardened finish or does that still show through reasonably well?

Thanks,

-- Clay
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Highlander999 on January 10, 2006, 02:06:17 PM
I took this old gun that I bought for a song, took 0000 steel wool, polished the end of the left side of the BBL where the holster wear would be, along the ejector rod on the right side, buffed more just along the bbl, and then all around the cylinder flutes and where the bevel on the front of the cylinder strikes the holster.  I then used the steel wool on the backstrap where my hand hits it, then across the front of the backstrap, and where my finger hits the trigger guard.  You can see where I started out with 600 emery paper (don't do that).  You can't see it in regular lighting, but under flash you can.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Remington Kid on January 27, 2006, 08:30:32 PM
Here is a picture of my new 1851 Navy I just antiqued the other day.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Wolfcamp Hill on January 27, 2006, 08:57:55 PM
splendid looking weppin. ;D
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Yankee John on February 06, 2006, 08:48:26 PM
Well,  I had to go and change my antiqued Uberti Cattleman again (slightly).

I changed out the brass grip frame for blued steel,  and added some Buffalo Brothers stag grips.  These grips took quite a lot of fitting & sanding,  but they are NICE!!!

I think I'll call this one- DONE!

John
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: stepnmud on March 20, 2006, 01:18:04 PM
I had posted the problem I was having with this Rifle on the Gunsmithing forum under extracting problems, but seem to have everything running properly now. Anyhow I followed Longshot Logan's refinishing methods sorta of, and really liked the paint stick with removing the finish trick.
Except I used 0000 steel wool and Formby's lemon oil to hand rub the wood finish. Also changed out the front & rear sight to Marbles 3/32" gold bead and full buckhorn.

before:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/stepnmud/Uberti73before004.jpg)

after:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/stepnmud/Uberti73after005.jpg)

before:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/stepnmud/Uberti73before002.jpg)

after:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/stepnmud/4b1554b7.jpg)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Ottawa Creek Bill on March 29, 2006, 12:40:31 PM
Here's a Leech & Rigdon I just finished for a good friend of mine. When re-doing a firearm the buffing is the key eliment. Prior to rebluing I buffed it out with a 650 rouge compound using a buffing wheel. That is why when you look at the gun you can see into the finish, almost like a candy apple finish on a car that has been highly buffed out. The gun was hot blued and buffed out to give it a old style charcoal blue look. and I re-color cased harden the frame and hammer and left the screws uncolored. We were trying to give this particular gun a 10 to 15 year old appearance. Oh yea, we buffed out the engraved navy scene on the cylinder as the Confederate Leech & Rigdon did not originally have it. A real pretty pistol...
Bill

(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y261/BillProctor123/IMG_0876.jpg)(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y261/BillProctor123/IMG_0873.jpg)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Curley Cole on March 29, 2006, 06:24:36 PM
(http://sdough.smugmug.com/photos/33615159-S.jpg)

(http://sdough.smugmug.com/photos/14120743-S.jpg)

Here is an old Dakota I got about 22 years ago as a "kit". I cold blued it to make it look old, and worked pretty good. It had brass backstrap/triggerguard till about a year ago and I just couldn't stand it any longer so stuck on  an Armi San Marcos tg/bs. The pix of it on the book is a pic of one of Doc Hollidays 45, and I couldn't believe how much they looked alike (except the length of barrels)
The blue wear is almost identical, the picture in the book didn't come out as clear to do real justice.
anyways the gun back then cost me $129.

was kinda fun
cc
 
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: ColonelFlashman on April 01, 2006, 02:27:00 AM
My question is WHY?
We are depecting the Era that these were Originally Designed & Manufactured in.
They'd NOT look like they were an Antique, but New w/ Slight holster wear on them.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Ottawa Creek Bill on April 01, 2006, 08:00:17 AM
My question is WHY?
We are depecting the Era that these were Originally Designed & Manufactured in.
They'd NOT look like they were an Antique, but New w/ Slight holster wear on them.
Colonel,
I agree with you, to a point. I do a 1870-1878 Chiricahua Apache scout impression. So, when I re-do my guns, I try to add about ten-fifteen years to them (see the Leech & Rigdon post above), particularly if the firearms happen to be conversions, or percussion revolvers that I would have carried in that time frame. Also, the finish they put on our firearms today is nothing like the finish used back in the 19th century, way too dark. I tend to put that original type of finish on my guns, and then bring out the added wear to them.

Bill
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Curley Cole on April 01, 2006, 06:00:32 PM
Col. Flash:

I agree, the Dakota I did just shows a good amount of wear...(as can be seen by comparing it with Doc's gun, it appears to be an appropriate amount.

the 1875 Remingtons I won at GBJL had the "antique" finish on them and I thought the looked kinda fake. I polished them a bit with Semichrome polish and smoothed it out a bit, so now they look like the finish is worn off...at least it looks better to my eyes...

cc
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Whiskey Kid on May 17, 2006, 10:05:27 PM
I picked up this vaquero at my local shop for $150.00 a while back. The bore was clean and it is totally functional I assure you, but the finish was in bad shape. So I cleaned it, stripped it and re-blued it, steel wooled the heck outta it, and fitted some new grips.

I'm pretty happy with it, but I'm lookin for some input from more experienced folk on if I went to far with my "antiquing" .....
Any comments are much obliged......

Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: J.J. Ferrett on June 13, 2006, 11:12:15 PM
First attempt at 'antiquing'. My personal pref is that I dont like the look of a deep blued 'old' revolver. I like the battered look.
I used white vinegar to remove the blue. Then I used ammonia bleach to pit and rust. 10 mins in the bleach, wash off and neutralise, then wire wool. I repeated this until I was happy (3 times). I then used Plum Brown and carded most off. The metal still has a tendancy to get 'rust dust' but, if i wipe the rust spots down with Balistol, they turn dark brown/black, and fade over a couple of weeks.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v699/corinthian101/DSCN0354.jpg)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dakota Widowmaker on June 30, 2006, 08:02:58 AM
Damn fine job on your Rem and Colt.As long as they still shoot like their new, who cares what they look like!!!

Here is a tip for folks who antique and don't want further rust.

Take the gun apart and put it in a zip-lock type bag with either CLP or some other gun oil that prevents rust yet penetrates.

Do NOT put the wood grips in the bag.

Fire up your outdoor grill and put a big deep pan or pot of water to boil on the side burner.

Get it rolling with bubles.

Place the bag with the gun and oil into the boiling water for 10-15 minutes.

Since water is only 212 F, there is no chance of the gun loosing its temper. 212 is too low for oil to self ignite.

Also 212 F is too low for it to take the temper out of springs and such.

Remove from the bag and then wipe with a towel. I sitll prefer to use a bit of kroil on the bore afterwards.

This should completely clean and prevent any further rust for a good long while.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Sir Charles deMouton-Black on July 04, 2006, 07:31:25 PM
I have an MVA #108 sight.  Shiny blue, mounted on a browned 'gemmerized" pedersoli Sharps.  I am after a # 130 for my original Win Hi-Wall.  MVA say they don't offer a brown optional finish.  Is there a way to get my sights to more closely match the rifles?
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: geo on July 25, 2006, 04:02:55 AM
i found out that using one to one measures of white vinegar and water heated will dissolve blueing right off a gun. not that i wanted this to happen. just got careless while cleaning the bp walker revolver. now i read people actually want to do this! and i thought i'd been really otl. good luck, geo.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: RRio on September 20, 2006, 02:29:47 PM
Rodeos. Anybody antique a Rodeo?

Let's see some pictures and us know how you did it.

RRio
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: fourfingersofdeath on December 19, 2006, 05:58:08 AM
Different strokes for different folks. The only trouble is that those guns that are antiques now were new guns then.

I used to help my grandpa who used to do repairs for a big slum lord in sydney and he did plumbing, painting and carpentry work as well (he had all three trades). We went into one house which had bare sandstock brick walls. Most were calcumined and painted. Nowadays folks buy these houses and spend lots of time and elbow grease removing the calcumine and paint and gettingthat nice bare brick look, very trendy, lots of work or expense getting it on old inner city houses. As we got out of his utility, he said 'Now Michael, these people are very poor and they do not have paint on the walls. You are not to mention it or pay any attention to it, but just be polite and treat them as you treat any other person. They have no money, but have a few chooks out the back. They will offer us some eggs in payment, we will have a cup of tea and I will forget to take the eggs, as I always do. Do not notice this and do not remind me about the eggs, they need the food more than we do. Treat all people as though they run the country. If they do, they deserve the respect and if they don't they probably need it' I have to smile when I see tose trendy houses with the bare old sandstone brick walls nowadays.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Riot Earp on December 25, 2006, 08:49:38 AM
LOL!  That's a damn shame to do that to a brand spanking new revolver, IMHO.  If you want it to look 'old', then use it for a while or buy a used one for cripe's sake.

I'm afraid to shoot "brand spanking new revolvers." With some hard use, they often look like crap. With an antiqued gun, you can beat the snot out of it and it will only add to its character. But then, I don't go as far as some do--I add a patina, but no pitting.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Springfield Slim on January 05, 2007, 10:48:57 PM
Sure, the guns were new in 1873, but do you really think they looked new a couple of years later after being used and abused and rained on and dropped in the dirt while doing normal cowboy work? Ever see any old police guns? Just shooting them every 6 months and cleaning them will put some decent wear on them. I mean, if you shoot a '92 or '94 Winchester in cas then your 1873 SAA pistol is theoretically 20 years old if you bought it new, or inherited it from your father.   
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: River City John on January 28, 2007, 10:59:01 AM
Here's the pic of my Leech & Rigdon I mentioned in another thread on finishes on the originals. (Riot Earp was interested in this revolver. I'd say go for it, you'll like it.) The L & R is one of my favorites.
As I wrote, the current copies from Uberti use the roll-engraved cylinder from the '51 as a manufacturing shortcut. Since the L & R had a plain cylinder, and I could not locate a plain cylinder through any of the aftermarket sources, I had OCB remove the engraved scene before refinishing.



(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o26/RiverCityJohn/DSCF0531.jpg)

And here's an original. The Uberti clone is very accurate.
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o26/RiverCityJohn/Picture1.png)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Riot Earp on January 28, 2007, 01:17:33 PM
Thanks for the pic!

Love that round barrel.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Snake River James on February 02, 2007, 02:18:11 PM
For those interested in antiquing a USFA Rodeo, here's how mine turned out.  I stripped the matte blue with vinegar then used a combination of cold blue and plum brown to get the effect I wanted.  Add a set of vintage stag grips and it looks pretty good.  Some use will add to the look by creating uneven wear.  Couldn't bring myself to antique the color cased hammer though.  Maybe later...

               (http://)

       I'm not sure the photo image will post so here' the link just in case   http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/srjames/MyRodeo1.jpg
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Irish Dave on February 05, 2007, 11:12:25 AM
Very nice, SRJ.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Dalton Masterson on March 02, 2007, 06:04:25 PM
(http://www.freewebs.com/daltonmasterson/MVC-019F.JPG)
Heres my Walker and runt 51.
Walker: Used BC Plum Brown pre directions, then took some cold blue over that. Shot it a few years, washed it once in dishwasher (oops, wife is still mad there), carded off the orange color. Then added salt to a wet gun, let dry repeat. Added nice mottling to finish. Polished very lightly with green pad. Whacked with a hard object a few times to add character dents. Lightly polished down the case colors so they looked faded, and added antiqued ivory grips. The wood grips I had were antiqued by stripping finish, taking a few pieces out (ala, dropped on barfloor), and colored broken parts with leather dye. I DID NOT remove any markings. When I shoot it people have asked why I would shoot an original.

runt 51: Swapped a preantiqued cylinder in and did a bad cold blue on the barrel ;)
DM
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Rube Burrows on July 01, 2007, 05:38:11 PM
My question is on the third page it shows the gun really rusted. Does that normally happen? Was that his second method?
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Cimarron Lawman on July 03, 2007, 03:21:56 PM
I believe that is a normal part of plum browning. The "rust" is then carded off and you are left with a pleasing, rust-resistant brown patina.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: andy42s on September 09, 2007, 10:58:49 AM
Yankee John, did you use the Radio Shack juice that jiminy criquet was talking about on your cattleman? I like the look of your finish a lot, would like the same effect for my vaquero
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Ten Wolves Fiveshooter on September 09, 2007, 01:49:16 PM
For those interested in antiquing a USFA Rodeo, here's how mine turned out.  I stripped the matte blue with vinegar then used a combination of cold blue and plum brown to get the effect I wanted.  Add a set of vintage stag grips and it looks pretty good.  Some use will add to the look by creating uneven wear.  Couldn't bring myself to antique the color cased hammer though.  Maybe later...

               (http://)

       I'm not sure the photo image will post so here' the link just in case   http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e184/srjames/MyRodeo1.jpg
[/quo   Snake River James
         I never liked the Rodio much , I always thought it was the ugleast gun out there, that mate finish is bad I don't know why USFA, would choose matte for a gun like the rodio. Anyway I think you did an A-1-OK job on this gun it looks the way it should look, and the grips really sets it off. GOOD JOB, MY HATS OFF TO YA

                                           TEN WOLVES FIVE SHOOTER            PS if that hammer is case harden leave it alone,it looks right just the way it is....
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: andy42s on September 15, 2007, 10:46:34 AM
Here's my newly old Ruger New Vaquero. I need to age the brass as well

(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i14/andy42s/100_2348.jpg)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Anontex2 on November 04, 2007, 10:05:54 AM
I have an Win 1866 that I have been trying to "distress" or "antique" a bit. Have been working with ammonia as recommended by numerous postings on the net, but could not get it right...splotches, cloth used left pattern, etc.  Today I tried something new and...bingo!  I poured about a cup of ammonia in an oblong shaped crockpot,  laid the brass receiver (still on rifle) across the opening at top and then fabricated a hoop frame of wire coat hangers within the crockpot and arching over the receiver.  I then used Glad ClingWrap to construct a "tent" over the hoop frame, with the bottom edges of the wrap readily clinging to the hot sides of the crockpot, sealing it somewhat.  I then turned the crockpot to "high" and as soon as the ammonia solution heated up, the patina developed right in front of my (watering) eyes.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Highlander999 on December 19, 2007, 09:58:16 PM
As to why...  I 'd agree with a few of the other posts, the weapons used then got lots of use and holster wear.  When I did miine, i tried to make it look a lot like the gun John Wayne carried in many of his movies.

But, like the old Cavalry guns, most were worn out by the 1890's when they were repaired and retro-fitted with the 5 1/2" Artillery bbls...

My effort was more to "replicate" considerable holster wear and use.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Virginia Gentleman on January 25, 2008, 09:18:23 AM
How do you make holster wear?  Make lots of passes through the holster until the metal starts showing?
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Marshal Will Wingam on January 25, 2008, 11:00:29 AM
That is one way to do it but I think you'd loose interest after a while. You could put jeweler's rouge or polishing compound on a piece of leather and rub the high points until it shows the same amount of wear you would find on an old pistol. A couple photos of old guns would let you know where to do this to really look authentic. A little care would produce a good result. If you have a holster you don't want to use again, you could put the polishing compound all over the inside and start in but that would still be doing things the hard way.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Delgado on February 02, 2008, 04:54:20 PM
Great idea Marshal. The cheapest and ugliest holster will be transformed into very special tool.
But please don´t try this job with the cylinder in only one  position, unless you want a very funny wearing pattern. :o

Delgado
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Daniel Nighteyes on February 28, 2009, 10:46:08 AM
I've posted these pics on SCORRS, and thought they might also be appropriate here.  I started with a pair of Uberti New Model Armies with that butt-ugly Millennium finish.  I dissassembled them, then degreased thoroughly with brake cleaner. I removed the finish by soaking them in white vinegar and wiping off with a series of paper towels.  By the way, I discovered that part of the Millennium finishing process involved bead-blasting the metal.  Next came a thorough soaking in a baking-soda/water solution, and an even more thorough rinsing under running tap water.

The moment they hit the air, they started oxidizing, so I rubbed them down really well with lots of oil.  I thoroughly swabbed out and oiled the bores too.

Next came the fun part -- using and shooting them in matches and, with reasonable care, letting them age on their own.  Several times I've been asked if they're originals, which pleases me greatly.


Here's how they looked shortly after I finished them, but before installing  "aged ivory" grips and the "antique finish" R&D conversion cylinders.  Note that I did not strip the finish from the percussion cylinders:

(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/danielnighteyes/CAS%20Guns%20etc/RemingtonNewArmies3.jpg)


Here's how they looked with the new grips/cylinders and a few months of handling and use:

(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/danielnighteyes/CAS%20Guns%20etc/HPIM0642.jpg)

And here's how they look today, after better than a year of handling and use:

(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a124/danielnighteyes/CAS%20Guns%20etc/NMAs-2.jpg)



Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Jubel on March 09, 2009, 10:24:22 PM
Well here's my nickels worth, I purchased a Richards Mason that came from the factory antiqued it was the only
one in 45 Schofield I could find locally. It had the standard 8"  1/2 bbl. I purchased a 5 1/2 BBL from Cimarron and I
followed the directions for antiquing using white vinagar until I matched the new BBL to the rest of the revolver. I
then used the polimar gun cleaner and protectant by Sweet Shooter as directed and so far rap on wood, no rust or
discoloration. This was two (2) years and many rounds ago.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: IE300 on May 01, 2009, 10:15:10 PM
Here's my Pietta Remington 1858 nice and pretty from the factory.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: IE300 on May 01, 2009, 10:28:15 PM
Here's my Pietta Remington 1858 after I destroyed it. Well, I'm not quite finished destroying it yet, I have a few more adjustments to make before I head into the sunset. Or maybe I'll just let time and wear take it from here.
I won't detail my metal finishing here. Suffice it to say that I did a bunch of experimentation, and ended up doing some variations on what you read about other peoples techniques on this site. It was all fun.
I cut the barrel to 5.5", cut the loading lever to match (although it has no latch to keep it from flopping around, so I'll probably never use it. I sanded the grips and finished them using USMC leather die, worked great on the wood! The cylinder pin retaining block (that's what I'm calling it, anyway) I fabricated from a scrap drillbit and some 1/4" steel I had. I drilled and tapped it to accomodate the retaining screw with the knurled brass button shown in the photo detail. I silver soldered a piece of square steel to the bottom front of the cylinder pin, just to fill the small space below it which would have been exposed. This was just cosmetic, but I like the result. The brass trigger guard I gave a slight copper plating to using some old jewelers pickle. Copper ages faster than brass, so I figured I'd give it a try. I fabricated the 2 crosses for the handles from a little scrap sterling, and affixed them with JB Weld, after degreasing the handles. I buffed the handles with the crosses on a buffer, hit them both again with the dye and hand rubbed them. I'll be the first to admit that my gunsmithing is primitive, but this project came out about as I would have hoped for. I finished it with a holster kit I bought from Tandy Leather. Nothing fancy, but I wasn't going to put my creation in a holster I didnt at least put together myself. Unfortunately, now I got the bug and I'm afraid there will be more such projects in the near future.
THE CROSSES ARE A TRIBUTE TO CLINT EASTWOOD
THE NAME OF THIS PISTOL IS "THE PREACHER"
[/b]
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Curley Cole on May 02, 2009, 01:18:36 AM
(http://sdough.smugmug.com/photos/14120743_ZckAM-M.jpg)

(http://sdough.smugmug.com/photos/33615159_QXg6s-M.jpg)

I got this Dakota years ago as a kit so it was in the "white", so I wanted to finish it to look well used. Well, that and using it for 25 some years has made it come true....

The gun in the book under my gun is Doc Hollidays and it looks very much similar...(pix doesn't do it justice.)

good shootin
curley
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Curley Cole on May 02, 2009, 01:21:30 AM
Sorry gang, didn't realize I had already posted to this thread....my apologiezs...

curley
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: olered54 on May 06, 2010, 08:24:12 AM
I am looking at purchasing a Stoeger Silverado. This is a used SXS and  the owner will sell it to me for a very good price. It is in excellent condition and has the brushed nickle finish. Is it possible to remove that finish as easily as removing bluing? The finish is in really good shape but, I would prefer to making the gun look older and more used. Brushed nickle is not my favorite for long guns. Please let me know about removing this finish. Thanks
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: andy42s on May 17, 2010, 07:34:53 PM
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i14/andy42s/IMG_0232.jpg)
Here's an updated picture of my new vaquero. I flitzed the ferric chloride finish, and finally tarnished the brass grip frame, and dulled the grips
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Alphawolf45 on July 17, 2010, 05:22:05 AM
 My first post here..Great forum.
.
I colorcasehardened this new receiver last week and the color pattern looked garish and didnt suit me..Remembering having recently read this thread and admired some of the 'antiqued ' guns .. I rubbed off the colors with 400 grit wet and dri and I like the appearance of worn off color case hardening...I see some of you fellers prefer the dull appearance ..I like some shine however as I think a cared for gun would be rubbed with rags frequently and wear to a shine going in and out of holster and scabbord.

(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u250/Alphawolf45_2007/100_4342.jpg)
 
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: andy42s on April 25, 2011, 03:50:48 PM
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i14/andy42s/IMG_0907.jpg)
My 1851 navy

(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i14/andy42s/IMG_0904.jpg)
My stoeger
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: n4sir45 on July 09, 2011, 05:40:27 PM
Can someone Antique a Stainless Ruger Vaquero? I have 2 Shiny Stainless Ruger Vaquero's that I'd like to look like they were from the old west. One of the 2 is an old model and the other is brand new model.
Anyone who wants to write me about it you can here or at n4sir45(at)msn(dot)com with instructions.
any are appreciated.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Roscoe Coles on October 22, 2011, 11:33:33 AM
The problem with the dip methods is that  guns come out looking like they have obviously been "antiqued".  Old guns always loose their finish at the high pints and have traces of finish in the low spots and protected areas.  The dip method removes the finish everywhere, which makes them look wrong.  But hey, I have always followed the "use it to make it look old" school of thought. 
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Junkman on October 23, 2011, 09:42:57 PM
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i14/andy42s/IMG_0907.jpg)
My 1851 navy


I hope you realize that the wedge on that '51 is upside down!  ::)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Mako on October 28, 2011, 09:32:54 PM
I hope you realize that the wedge on that '51 is upside down!  ::)

Junkman,
My question is how that could be done if the wedge retention screw is in place.  "You can't get there from here..."

~Mako
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Junkman on October 31, 2011, 10:25:25 AM
C'mon Mako. I do not understand your question, since I do not see a picture that indicates the wedge retention screw is installed! You know damned well the wedge is upside down.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Mako on October 31, 2011, 11:25:20 AM
C'mon Mako. I do not understand your question, since I do not see a picture that indicates the wedge retention screw is installed! You know damned well the wedge is upside down.

Calm down... My point is that you are correct, furthermore the wedge retention screw can't be in place because you can't put a wedge in upside down if it is.  It was a rhetorical question.  I'm sorry if it sounded like I was disagreeing with you. :(

Regards,
Mako
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Junkman on October 31, 2011, 12:02:49 PM
Mako,

I'm calm. I knew the screw could not be installed due to the lip on the wedge. I just didn't understand your rhetoric. Sorry. Sometimes the written word doesn't come off as it would have face to face. No harm/no foul, as they say.  ;D
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Sir Charles deMouton-Black on October 31, 2011, 04:21:56 PM
Back about three pages, I figured we had this one run inta the ground.  Anyway, since we're here, how about some aphorisms.  They are a great way of aging things quickly!

"S-it happens!"

"Time flies when you're havin fun"

So the conclusion is;  Have more fun and everything will acquire the patina of experience much more quickly! 8) 8)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: PJ Hardtack on October 31, 2011, 09:41:43 PM
The pickled frame on my early blued .44 mag Vaquero is wearing nicely, looking great with the rest of the blued gun. The stainless Vaquero I bought at the same time is not aging as well, retaining most of it's lustre, but I like it just fine.

One of my Uberti .45s from the same era has that odd 'fire blued' finish that is aging nicely. It doesn't wear well and I've let it happen naturally. Some enhancement might actually improve it. It's companion is the standard dark blue and just starting to show wear.

I've never quite understood 'antiquing' a gun, as in the historic era, it would have looked like what it was - a fairly new and valued tool that saw daily or frequent use. The more service, the more marks. Honourably earned 'hash marks', like some scars, add character, each one a chapter in a story. But, I admit that some 'antiqued' guns look interesting.

Where I have problems is when it accentuates wear like a lot of 'tuning' and 'actions jobs' I've seen. I'm a believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."; letting things wear in naturally rather than speeding up the process. I like my women (wife) and my guns to look too damn young for me .... ;>)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Riot Earp on November 07, 2011, 08:00:30 AM
I've never quite understood 'antiquing' a gun, as in the historic era, it would have looked like what it was - a fairly new and valued tool that saw daily or frequent use.

There is always someone in every antiquing thread, on every gun-related site, who expresses this view.  :-\

Antiquing isn't for everyone. But surely a gun carried on horseback in the elements would have aged rather quickly. Rain does nasty things to carbon steel. (Please, let's not extend the debate over this point, and thereby ruin this thread.)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Indian Outlaw on January 20, 2012, 01:19:47 PM
I am going to try the following method on a new Uberti London Navy:

http://disc.yourwebapps.com/discussion.cgi?disc=208184;article=296881

I think this method ages the gun more realistically than the vinegar-dip and acid-etch methods.

I refuse to bugger-up the screws, however.  ::)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Gbeathar on March 17, 2012, 02:39:15 PM
If you have any pitting or dings in the metal a French Grey finish will look pretty antique. Some mentioned toilet bowl cleaner to remove blueing. I use Brownells Blue and Rust Remover. The put the French Gray on with a product like PPG's Metal Conditioner. The longer you leave the in the conditioner, the darker they will be. You can then rub on and off rust oleum flat black. Any dings and pits will retain the black. It is a nice permanent antique look.

Gerry
BeathardEngraving.Com
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Boothill Bob on August 11, 2012, 02:34:55 AM
Howdy..
I will trye this way on my uberti
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Antiquing_SAA_Revolver.pdf
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Boothill Bob on August 13, 2012, 02:24:39 PM
It come out like this.. Looks like it been on the trail for a year without oil :D
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Forty Rod on August 13, 2012, 02:41:27 PM
Helluva a cylinder gap there, Bill.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Boothill Bob on August 16, 2012, 04:49:24 AM
Helluva a cylinder gap there, Bill.

Its a blank fireing gun that I use in shows :D
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Curley Cole on August 16, 2012, 03:23:19 PM
(http://sdough.smugmug.com/Art/Just-For-Fun/docgun1/33615159_QXg6s-M.jpg)

To be honest I am not that fond of the "antiqwuing" that much. Esp. if it makes it look like it was stuck in a boot for a year. The reason I antiqued my gun was because it was a kit gun, AND I couldn't afford a full hot blue. AND I did want it to look some what worn.

I reposted this pix because someone asked about simulating the wear points ie holster etc. I did a cold blue on my gun, and with cold blue it is a fairly thin finish so the wear points come very quickly...suck as a cylinder drag mark and the holster wear on the bbl.l

I think my gun looks fairly authentic. looks much like the photo od Docs gun..

some of ya should give it a try..(the grips were already looking a bit worn they were in a bin of parts at EMF for about 20 years and banged around in there before I got them to replace the brass...

curley
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Indian Outlaw on September 09, 2012, 04:22:35 PM
Curley, you must really like that gun. You posted it three times in this thread alone.   ;D

Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: petrinal on February 10, 2013, 06:31:07 PM
now..


(http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad339/cesargijon/004-15.jpg)

before (revolver on top)

(http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad339/cesargijon/fotos%20full/021-1.jpg)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: ColonelFlashman on March 06, 2013, 11:43:25 PM
Just to reiterate. :D

 WHY? ::)

We are portraying an Era where these weapons were NEW or NEWish. :o
They were expensive, needed to function perfectly, so they'd have been taken rather good care of. :o
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: TwoWalks Baldridge on March 07, 2013, 09:20:03 AM
Just to reiterate. :D

 WHY? ::)

We are portraying an Era where these weapons were NEW or NEWish. :o
They were expensive, needed to function perfectly, so they'd have been taken rather good care of. :o


That might not be totally correct:   Grew up on a farm in Ohio, decided to head west and seek my fortune.  Being a poor kid, I purchased a second hand colt from the local gunsmith. This gun was inexpensive compared to new, well worn but very serviceable. 

There could be any number of portrayals were the gun would not have been New Looking.  Old man living in the Colorado area and still using the well worn revolver he bought many years back when first heading west.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: ColonelFlashman on March 07, 2013, 11:39:07 AM
It would Still have the Majority of its Finish & Not look 200 years old.  :o
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: TwoWalks Baldridge on March 07, 2013, 03:42:20 PM
It would Still have the Majority of its Finish & Not look 200 years old.  :o

My response was not about making it look 200 years old, rather "NEW or NEWish" and it being well used and weathered.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: ColonelFlashman on March 08, 2013, 03:25:51 AM
The majority of what I'm seeing, is individuals today ageing them to look like they never took care of them. Finish completely gone & rough looking. ::)
Unless one made their living w/ Firearms, such as a LEO, Outlaw, Cavalry, etc., one would be using their Longarms more, not ones Pistole so much.  :o
So the majority that didn't, it resided in ones Holster, Saddlebags, Carpetbag, etc., most of the time & one maintained it so it would function perfectly when one needed it for the unexpected emergency that is was designed to use for. 8)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: TwoWalks Baldridge on March 08, 2013, 09:06:57 AM
The majority of what I'm seeing, is individuals today ageing them to look like they never took care of them. Finish completely gone & rough looking. ::)
Unless one made their living w/ Firearms, such as a LEO, Outlaw, Cavalry, etc., one would be using their Longarms more, not ones Pistole so much.  :o
So the majority that didn't, it resided in ones Holster, Saddlebags, Carpetbag, etc., most of the time & one maintained it so it would function perfectly when one needed it for the unexpected emergency that is was designed to use for. 8)

I agree that a lot of them are taken too far.  If a person wants a Nevada Smith found gun or a Josie Wales, pulled from the fire gun, just take it, stick it in a compost pile for two weeks and smile.

Holsters were not lined and just moving around in the holster will start showing rub spots in short order, same as today's guns.

Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: ColonelFlashman on March 08, 2013, 01:36:30 PM
Muzzle & cylinder wear of the finish is what one would definitely would be seen more than anything else. 8)
Nice to see we're on the same page, mate. :)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: petrinal on March 09, 2013, 07:59:40 AM
Just to reiterate. :D

 WHY? ::)

We are portraying an Era where these weapons were NEW or NEWish. :o
They were expensive, needed to function perfectly, so they'd have been taken rather good care of. :o


one of the main reasons is the very inadequate, modern blueing given by  the italians to their clones, with no possible comparation to the wonderful rust of heat blueings of XIX century firearms.

so many revolvers, be it Cattlemans, or be it Navies, Armys, 1858, just dont look authentic. In my UBERTI cattleman case, the casehardening was ... :'( :'( :'( and the blueing was.... :-X :-X :-X :-X :-X..(I dont want to offend Italy´s replica gun industry and their customers, but it is the plain truth...they are light years away in finish from the real guns).

Every time that I saw the gun, I wanted to cry. I just didnt like the finish, XIX century revolvers were not finished  with those black alkaline, poorly made finish and with that chemical casehardening, period!

so we have to choices:

either refinish the gun the old way, or either "ageing it".  

 original heat and rust blueing  finishes are more affected by both light and leather than modern finishes, and tend to become "grey", in a few years time, specially if used outdoors. They develop in just 20 years a very nice patina, if exposed to elements or sunlight, and lets not forget that they used not to clean them much, and if they did, they did it with soap and water, that sometimes, if not properly oiled after, will develop rust.

in short, many guns were refinished after only some years of use, by local gunsmiths, and this professionals knew their trade well, so they  did refinish them  the old way, mainly with rust blueing. So a rust blued UBERTI like mine,  will look 1000th times more authentic that an alkaline blued, black, and chemical casehardened one.

the same applies for Pietta, with finishes that really look unrealistic. Well, they are using robots lately to manufacture them....depressing, but very cost effective indeed....

all the best
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Forty Rod on March 09, 2013, 10:40:56 AM
Just to reiterate. :D

 WHY? ::)

We are portraying an Era where these weapons were NEW or NEWish. :o
They were expensive, needed to function perfectly, so they'd have been taken rather good care of. :o


FLASHY!!!  You're still alive!   :o

Where have you been hiding for the last couple of years?  :D
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Roshi on June 03, 2013, 12:57:10 PM
I've been to more museums than you can count and have looked at thousands of pictures of old guns.  It's pretty rare that any that were well used look anything close to new.  Wild Bill's 1851 in the Autry Museum was one of the best maintained "user" pistols I've ever seen.

I have a Colt 1911 Government Model that I bought used in 1998.  It left the factory in 1913 with a rich coat of Colt blue.  By 1998, while mechanically perfect, it only had about 5% blue left, all inside.  The remaining "finish" is all a nice gray patina. 

Who's to say how long it took for that delicate blue to wear off?  The SAA's and C&B Colts had a similar finish.

In the end it's a matter of personal taste.  You may prefer that your revolver look like it just came from the factory and had never been used.  I prefer mine looks like a well used hand tool. 

We're both right.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Riot Earp on June 11, 2013, 10:30:32 AM
Just to reiterate. :D

 WHY? ::)

This thread was intended for people who like the antique look. I don't understand why people who *don't* like the antique look, want to throw cold water on a thread like this, and thus start a debate. I enjoy antiqued guns. I don't feel I should have to defend what I like.

I tell you what ... Buy a new gun and then carry it on a couple of six-month cattle drives, in a holster, out in the elements, and then tell me how it has changed.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: GunClick Rick on September 06, 2013, 11:52:57 AM
I'd be surprised if you could find 3 guns on a cattle drive and those would most likely be owned by the cook and the boss~
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Palatine Tom on February 18, 2014, 07:33:21 AM
Dear all,

Interessting topic.

This is how my ElTigre made in 1917-1925 looks like today. (And traveled through the Spanish Civil War as well)

I think it just looks great  :) :)


Tom
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: St. George on February 18, 2014, 08:34:18 AM
Don't try to compare weapons seen in museums as being representative of finish wear - or the lack thereof.

Museums aren't given pristine examples - they get what donors don't want or can't dispose of any other way.

The really nice stuff either goes to a relative or to friends - or gets sold.

Vaya,

Scouts Out!
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: GunClick Rick on February 18, 2014, 12:11:56 PM
I disagree a tad,i have givin local museum items in nice condition of course on loan for about a year,but i would agree with you long term,nice El Tigre  :) But then again we are talking weapons aren't we..You should see what my Lt PD cousin gets turned into him after a husband passes or something,you would cry!
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: dusty texian on February 18, 2014, 01:21:49 PM
There is a place for well used gun's and a place for near new looking gun's in our sport. I like to think a brand new looking Winchester,with all it's beauty and shine would look out of place in the hand's of a SouthWestener , say in the Texas badland's . Just as a, Well used gun may look out of place in the hand's of a Town Dude, Gambler or Storekeep .I can tell you from experiance in the desert S/W . oil  on your firearm is a No No . In a day or less, on the range ,if oiled your gun will look white. And when you wipe it off there goes that nice blue job. It goes away soon enough just being handled with that fine dust on them. I think locality had a lot to do with the condition of firearm's of this period as it does today. Say a Floridian of the time would prob. oil his gun regular ,and that finish may last decades.I for one have found this thread interesting. I have seen the time that a part must be replaced on an original gun and being able to get input fron some here has helped me match the old look on a new part on ocassion. Look's like about 2cent worth,,,,,,,,,Dusty Texian
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Mean Bob Mean on February 18, 2014, 01:26:57 PM
There is a place for well used gun's and a place for near new looking gun's in our sport.

Nicely said mate.  I think if you develop a persona in this sport, and that persona is on the Frontier in say, 1874, why would his 1873 and cartridge pistols look beat up?  Really, unless your character is rough and tumble, likely most were kept up since they were expensive, important tools.  I like the idea of a worn shotgun as I think that would get the most use as a game and self defense firearm. 
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Indian Outlaw on April 03, 2014, 07:11:02 AM
I'd be surprised if you could find 3 guns on a cattle drive and those would most likely be owned by the cook and the boss~

Read "Log of a Cowboy," by Andy Adams. 19th Century cowboys carried revolvers on cattle drives.

Having said that, this topic is titled "How-To," not "Debate." This thread has gotten off track. Since there are few guns being displayed, perhaps the thread has run its course and should be closed??
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Mean Bob Mean on April 14, 2014, 08:32:37 PM
I saw a nicely antiqued Cimarron 1878 shotgun Saturday.  Shooter said he did it with a fast light vinegar wipe. 
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Lord Eoin MacKenzie on June 27, 2014, 03:22:12 PM
This might be "Off Topic"    I have an older west German made SAA clone with Aluminum Gripframe, trigger guard and ejector houing...Also the previous owner sprayed the entire gun with a flat black paint that lasted until I got home.  I know the gunfight grips have to go, for both groups.
What can I used to strip off the paint without affecting the aluminum pieces?
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: yahoody on June 30, 2014, 03:55:26 PM
I did my USFA Rodeo start to finish while watching Monte Walsh last night.  Only a few pauses throw in for refreshements and pee breaks  :o.

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mvI6-Hkgh58/U7GmbgmxrVI/AAAAAAAANos/9bn0JU_V_94/s1600/DSC03574.JPG)

Little more white than I originally wanted on the barrel sides.  Spent most of the time on the frame with the gun stripped down.    Only things used were a new B-C Lead & Polishing Cloth (the majority of the effort btw), a tiny bit of JB Bore paste and a few swipes of white wine vinegar, undiluted, which was used very sparingly on a paper towel as a wipe.   The visual effect now is a well worn carbonia blue I think.  More so than a  gun in the white to my eye.  Surprised actually at just how nice it did come out.

either way a lot more authentic than this imo...
and a might purtier

(http://gunsforsalegun.com/wp-content/uploads/us-firearms-rodeo-45-colt-4-34-usfa-saa-45lc-3.jpg)
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: yahoody on June 30, 2014, 05:43:51 PM
It would Still have the Majority of its Finish & Not look 200 years old.  :o

Ya, imo, there is a lot of speculation in this thread on gun finish.

I own a gun 1911 Colt Bisley that I know its entire history from a new purchase @ Blish-Mize-Silliman hardware in Atchison KS to date.  It has been passed through 4 generations of my family.  Of those 103 years I know exactly where it has been for 70.  It was pampered for that 70.   The majority of the holster wear came between 1913 and 1922 doing Colorado ranch work when a side arm might be required.  But no question, this one was an expensive piece of property that was taken exceptionally good care of.  This was a gentleman's target gun and point of pride.   The purchase was never intended to be a cowboy's everyday range tool.  A couple of hard years, 1942-3 saw the same gun in the holster again on a cow pony.  The owner already 50+.  Game, but city soft and getting a little long in the tooth to be a cowboy again.  You can compare the results of what 11 years of actual documented holster wear and the elements do to a gun in the photo.  I still have the original holster as well.  I suspect finish damage was at best an equal combination of holster wear and harsh cleaning techniques.  BP cleaning even harder yet on the finish.   

(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7YXhLMLzeD4/U7Ei9Lb5XDI/AAAAAAAANoM/c5RReI_LiC0/s1600/DSC03573.JPG)

 
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: willcarter on August 12, 2014, 11:11:34 AM
Great idea Marshal. The cheapest and ugliest holster will be transformed into very special tool.
But please don´t try this job with the cylinder in only one  position, unless you want a very funny wearing pattern.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Baltimore Ed on September 02, 2016, 10:05:45 AM
Here's my Colt 1911/Essex.The slide is original 1911 with the small sights and correct roll marks with 100 years of wear and tear. The frame is a 70ish Essex. The problem was that they didn't match at all. The frame, slide, small parts sans the bbl and internals were put in a cloth bag with a bunch of screwdriver bits and ball bearings and then shook and rattled for a while. Then I used browning solution. Luckily the old slide and modern frame and bbl were a good fit. It turned out fine and is 100% reliable. The walnut double diamonds are modern but were also distressed by sanding down the points and staining with dark stain and some ink.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Forty Rod on September 02, 2016, 02:11:36 PM
Mighty fine job and one of the few I've seen that actually match the"real" antique original finish.

Well done, sir.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: Baltimore Ed on September 02, 2016, 03:03:06 PM
Here's the Colt before.
Title: Re: Antiquing "How-To"
Post by: ToryBlaker on January 08, 2022, 02:31:43 AM
That is a great how-to,  and I used basically the same method when I redid my Uberti Cattleman.  I just had to do something to get rid of that "matte blued" finish!

The only real difference that I did was that I used Flitz polish in the very end.

Here is a pic of the completed Uberti:

great work, you are quite an artist if i may say so :) :)