Butt Butt wait!!  Da new poll gotz no boxes to putt da X in?? 

NO NO NO!!  Plastic "WADs".  Just plastic WADs.  Da wad includes the ever necessary Shot Cup.  All Brass Hulls ONLY

Coffinmaker (one wurd)

Awrightie!!  I been shamed.  Shamed I tell ya!!  But Never Surrender (Stolen Semi-Famous Movie Line) Marching onward!!  Challenge ACCEPTED!!  I went back to da TOP and voted I did.  So There.  TAKE THAT!!  Ha !!!!!!

My recipe is (NO, not for cake) started with a nice Magtech Hull.  Prime it.  Use any Large Pistol Primer, just make sure it seats fully.  I use a press.  Flip it over (very important).  Dump in 40Gr APP 2F.  Yea, that's right, APP, stuff works a treat.  Poke in a BP SPITFIRE plastic (at'z right you heathens, "Plastic") wad for a one ounce pay load.  I use to use fiber wads but they blew a gaping hole inna middle of da pattern.  Found a "shot cup" of some sort is super beneficial.  I also use to use a BP 1044 wad but got tired of cutting the petals for a one ounce payload.  Then dump in one ounce of shot, new or used dudden matter.  Shove in TWO over shot cards, seated with a three quarter inch stick.  NO CRIMP!!  Done.  Any popper fair hit goes down.  For maximum Oohs and Aahs, must be shot thru a Hammer Double, none of that non-cowboy pump handle stuff atall.  So there it be!!  TA DA!!

  Absolutely NOT Perfesser !!

Lasers take batteries and batteries make FIRES especial when in pockets!!  No No.  Gotta put a SCOPE onnit.  A nice Stainless matching one at that.

Scopeit you betcha.

I too voted prior to brass being an option.   The RMC are stout and I bought 10 eons ago (less than $4 a piece).   They take the 209s well.

I have an oddish loading.
Drive spent primer out with dowel, fitted with blunt nail.   It is a 5/8 dowel and taps the spent primer out easily.    Next, thumb seat 209 primer (after cleaning of course) and use a 2nd dowel that is dished to seat with just another tap.   Pour in 80 grains of ffg, through a 24 inch drop tube.   Place card stock over and seat with dowel.   Add fiber wad, seat with dowel.  Using the 80 grain measure (I made it from a plastic tube), measure and pour in #7 lead shot.   top with a card stock and seat.   Then run a bead of elmers white glue around the edge to seal. 

I do the same with plastic hulls that have had the crimp portion cut off.   

I will say, I have never patterned them.   We do not shoot a lot of shotgun in NCOWS, but we do a texas star with shotgun, rifle and pistol.   with the brass shells, it is the one of the 3 I will take all five targets out with.   

Since I already voted, it won't let me vote again for brass shells.  But I also don't use them very often these days, partially because they slow me down on loading into the SxS (no crimp), and they don't always eject as well.  I know some of that is the old Rem-UMC hulls needing to be annealed, because even though they go in round, the mouth is a bit out of round after firing.  However, Mako (with one dorsal) I have not had any problems with lack of oomph out of my brass loads.

But I do still like shooting the all brass at times.  My reloading has been split between two locations with limited time for a while now, but that is changing as I get things consolidated and moved over the next year, so hopefully will get some more brass loading done.  I've also got a lot of Alcan brass hulls, which are thicker than the REM-UMC / Winchester / Magtech but not as thick as RMC.  They use a Remington 57-style primer (I think that's it) that looks like a 209 but is smaller.  Fortunately I have a couple thousand of those.  One problem I have with those is that a lot of them 2.5" but some are different lengths up to about 2.75".  When firing them, I have to pay attention that I'm shooting the longest ones first, followed by shorter, or they will stick in the chamber from prior fouling.  They need to be all trimmed to 2.5" but I have no way to do that.

Mako, yes the RMC hulls are the machined ones with the same internal dimensions as a plastic hull and use 209's. They're still around, last I looked those were about $8 each.  I have a half dozen of them but don't use them much any more because the primer pockets are so tight that priming and depriming are both very difficult.