Holster construction is not a mystery and most people can do it if they know what to do. This thread will show the way I make holsters. Most of the time, that is, since there are no absolute rules on how to proceed and I stray off my own reservation when the job calls for it. Most photos in this thread show the tools used for that corresponding step. It might take some time between additions to the thread because this will get done as I can put the time into it.
You have to have a plan and know what you want as an end result before you start. For this project, I chose to make a holster like the Wild Bill Hickock one in Packing Iron on page 88. Unlike the original, this one won't be lined.
It’s easier to modify an existing pattern than to draw one from scratch. There’s no sense having to do all the initial design work again if there’s a pattern on hand that already is right. My modified Gallatin pattern was the starting point.
The newly made Hickock pattern is on the right.
I like to use manila folders for patterns because they hold up for quite a few uses and I generally make some change(s) before making too many of the same design as is the case this time.
That pattern then gets transferred to the leather, along with other parts. The toe plug will get cut from one of the scraps. I used a blue fine ball point pen for tracing this because it’s easy to follow and it doesn’t soak into the leather. Any remaining ink on the cut piece will get beveled off later. It's good to make sure you don’t have a leaky pen or it will seriously mess up your project. Blueprint weights come in handy to hold leather flat when tracing.
Before cutting the holster out, I like to punch the tight inside curves on the throat first. Then I cut following the lines.
Now all the pieces are cut out and ready for the decorative work. A scrap is saved to make the toe plug. The leather scrap with jeweler’s rouge on it is for stropping the blade to keep it cutting smoothly.
The decorative part is done. The edges that aren’t going to be stitched are beaded and the simple ¼” border is cut and beveled. Now it dries for the next step. For obvious reasons the photo doesn't include the drill press I used to impress the maker's stamp on it.