+1. The hand/pawl pushes the cylinder forward. So, at rest there should be no gap. To measure the gap you have to pull the cylinder to the rear.
To clarify, when the wedge spring just snaps up, into position, the cylinder is back and there is no cylinder gap, not a hint of day light, not even .0001" (yes you read that right)....zero, zip. nadda. The cylinder is all the way back against the recoil shield, the arbor bottoms out and the wedge spring snaps up, all at exactly the same time, with zero play anywhere, meaning absolutely no fore/aft cylinder movement. Like I said, it is a little too tight. I am not cocking it until I get it fixed for it will, as is, certainly score the front of the cylinder. I do not wish to meddle with the wedge because it is perfect; in fact I have never had one that perfect. The wedge is not overtightening anything, it bottoms the arbor and the bottom of the frame at exactly the same time and it is a simple light push down on the wedge spring and light thumb pressure on the wedge and it pops right out; no tools required, not even a light tap with a wooden dowel. I have not owned any "tuned" cap guns but Happy Trails tuned several of my cartridge open tops and none of them will do that. You could honestly pull off a Pale Rider cylinder change with this wedge fit, which is a certainly a plus on a gun that will have to have the cylinder removed 100% of the time for reload. The only option I see is to take ~.003" off the back of the barrel. Are there other options?? None of this is a criticism of the gun what-so-ever; I would much rather start with a tight gun than a loose one.