Author Topic: Grinding main springs on Schofields  (Read 2983 times)

Offline Doc Hawken

  • Very Active Citizen
  • *
  • Posts: 52
  • Liked:
  • Likes Given: 0
Grinding main springs on Schofields
« on: November 09, 2005, 06:49:22 PM »
On my Russians I found that to get the lighter hammer pull that the spring adjustment screw needed to be backed out considerable, leaving it exposed on the grip frame. I started grinding allowing 1/4" from the hammer connection and perhaps 3/8 from the indentation in the grip frame. Once I had them light enough the adjustment screw then went flush with the frame as I  fine tuned the feel..I was really surprised at how effective this simple procedure is. Any other BOSS pards do this??  Doc

Offline Scattered Thumbs

  • Top Active Citizen
  • *
  • Posts: 1289
  • Liked:
  • Likes Given: 61
Re: Grinding main springs on Schofields
« Reply #1 on: November 10, 2005, 05:49:13 AM »
I really don't like light hammer springs, I like the hammer to snap fast and with authority. In the Smith & Wesson design I think it would be better to lighten the return trigger spring.

Offline Doc Hawken

  • Very Active Citizen
  • *
  • Posts: 52
  • Liked:
  • Likes Given: 0
Re: Grinding main springs on Schofields
« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2005, 08:00:57 AM »
When you lighten the main spring you automatically do so to the trigger as well, less resistance to overcome initially is transfered through the process.  Doc

Advertising

  • Guest
Re: Grinding main springs on Schofields
« Reply #3 on: Today at 04:29:45 AM »

Offline Scattered Thumbs

  • Top Active Citizen
  • *
  • Posts: 1289
  • Liked:
  • Likes Given: 61
Re: Grinding main springs on Schofields
« Reply #3 on: November 10, 2005, 08:53:36 AM »
My point is. I like to lighten the trigger pull without slowing the hammer lock time.

 

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk

© 1995 - 2023 CAScity.com