Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
CAS TOPICS => Gunsmithing => Topic started by: Holsterguy on June 06, 2021, 09:42:02 AM
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Can Cratex bits @400 grit be used safely to polish action springs and components?
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For "slab side" polishing ( bolts, triggers, hammers, hands) I finish with 1200 - 1500 paper (800 is really good enough) on a flat surface (1/4" glass). For finishing screw heads/ pin shafts and most curved surfaces I use a pad under the paper (screws are spun in a drill motor, shafts with a looped strip of paper ). The top of the bolt head, and hammer face with wheel (dremel) and jewelers rouge (don't round high side bolt edge!!). Loop of paper for the arbor as well.
Mike
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:) Holsterguy ;)
I suppose you could. I have not used Cratex for that purpose. I have to agree with "The Other Mike." Flat parts have to stay FLAT. Action parts will NOT stay flat when attacked with rounded polishing things. For the same parts listed by Dragoon, I use exactly the same method at the same grits. I use a LOT of 1500 and 2000 grit Wet/Dry on a FLAT surface. I have a large square of "Float Glass" and I have a large square of granite the is surfaced to be dead flat.
The only time I have bothered to "polish" springs, has been to remove the machine marks from Uberti Rifle Main Springs. The rifle springs are just full of stress risers and need cleaned up.
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Cratex are rubbery and will follow bumps and grooves, I agree with the others that there’s better ways to polish flat things or parts with hard edges. Cratex can be very useful on other shapes.
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Ok. Thanks guys. Sounds like maybe I’ll just stick to the wet or dry.
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Firstly, what the other guys warned about!
secondly ... cratex implies dremel.
generally speaking dremel is BAD JUJU
no dremel on gunz or knivez
too fast
too wavy
too uncontrolable
eats too much
very fine wet or dry, hard backing, work slow
or stones.
slipstones good
dremel bad
yhs
prf mrvl
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Professor, cratex comes in sticks as well as other forms. I have and use various grits in 1/2” square ones that are 6” long. Great for some final polishing contoured shapes but as we agree not the flats. It’s impossible for me to keep up with all the wiz bang products out there but these are handy.
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Professor, cratex comes in sticks as well as other forms. I have and use various grits in 1/2” square ones that are 6” long. Great for some final polishing contoured shapes but as we agree not the flats. It’s impossible for me to keep up with all the wiz bang products out there but these are handy.
Thank you Kent!
Re the Dremel assumption I stand corrected.
As we all agree, on flats, flexi is not so good
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The Dremel gets a bad rap and rightly so! (Thanks Perfessor!! ) Most folks attempt to hold the motor while trying to do "precision" maneuvers, at a constant speed - recipe for . . . well, screwed up parts! The setup needed if you're going to go that route includes a flexible shaft with a much more manageable hand piece AND, AND, I SAID A-N-D a variable speed control (mine is foot operated) !!!! So, you'll need more than just a dremel motor and a set of bits/sanding drums!! The MAIN ingredient is CONTROL!! OH . . . wear eye protection . . . or the Eye Doc will use a mini "dremel" to dig metal (and the rust bloom) out !!! Not good!! Personally, (since then!) I look through a large, adjustable, mounted/lighted mag lens - works great!!!
Mike