Holster Styles & Variations

[Johnny Dingus]

Really Nice HorsePen,

The belt looks great too with the small amount of spots looks real clean.

So If'n we just mix a bunch of stain together we get our holsters to look that good.....nah.

You have your own style and it looks great.

Keep showing us more so we can drool at yours like we drool at Chucks.


Thanks


Johnny Dingus

[Gun Butcher]

  Horsepen you are the master of the basket stamp. And that color is off the scale man. Truly a work of art.....!!

[HorsePen Henry]

Marshall, I'm laughing with ya, but yep, that's about it fer the recipe. I am working toward a color which is rich as this color but a bit redder of a brown. Look at the holster in the front cover fold of Packin' Iron and you'll see what I mean. I don't mind this color but eventually I will get that perticular color figgered out. I'll just keep monkeyin' with it.

Johnny and Gun Butcher, those are real compliments right there. Thank ya kindly.

Watchyerhair,

X Horse Pen

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[Gun Butcher]

  I just remembered I have an ol' bottle of fiebings ox blood that has been aging in the glass.. as they say.. for about 10 years I might have to give your well balanced and highly scimantific formula a try with my own little twist.
                Gun Butcher

[Dispatch]

Ya Done good Little Brother!

Here's a set of skirtless holsters I just re-finished to match the belt......I like the style a lot - sort of a best of both worlds approach - better grip on the belt with less flop than a Slim jim, but the grace and minimalist appeal of the SLim Jim.....

[edit:link to image lost]

This is a fantastic rig!!! I think I've found what I'm looking for. I don't know if this rig was rare or not, but it surely is something I've never seen before. The conchos are an extremely nice touch! PM or e-mail me and we can arrange the details for it's make up.

[ChuckBurrows]

Email sent Dispatch........

[Irish Dave]

Very nice as usual, HorsePen. Good job.

As to the Gaston mod, fellas, I remember coming across that in a book about military leather etc. from the period. Can't remember now what I was researching at the time, but that's where it was. The book in question belongs to fellow NCOWS'er and shooting pard "GW Schofield" (Steve Coop). Next time I'm over there, I'll see if I can find it again.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks, Dave. I appreciate your looking. Don't put yourself out or anything but if it happens along, it would be good to see. I like the idea because I've often thought about making a holster with the flap ( greatly cut-down skirt) folded back and sewn to the holster rather than put a loop on it. It would be nice to have it look historically correct.

[mike highgate]

Will

Thanks for your welcome.

You have a nice holster by Rice of Dodge City that is held to the skirt by rivets. What size of rivet is that? And what size of rivet would be authentic for billet and chape?

[JD Alan]

Not sure if X Pen will get to this thread for a while, so maybe someone else could let me know what they do.

He says he lets the holsters soak in the dye after he's stitched them up. Any thoughts on how long, or if he rubs them down real good at first, or if he turns them occasionally?

I'm expermenting with various colors right now, so I will throw a small piece in some dye to see how it compares with just a brisk rub.   

One thing for sure, some of you guys: Chuck B, Will, X Pen, (And others I'm sure) have the dye/finish part of this craft down. It really gives me somthing to shoot for, no pun intended! Thanks, JD

[Marshal Will Wingam]

You have a nice holster by Rice of Dodge City that is held to the skirt by rivets. What size of rivet is that? And what size of rivet would be authentic for billet and chape?

Thanks, Mike. I use #14 copper rivets. I got 3/4" length and after I tap the burr on, I cut them to the right length and set them. I use the same rivets on all stuff on a rig that need them but as to what's historically correct, I really don't know. I just figure that if it looks like the right size, it probably is. Perhaps one of the other pards on this forum will know the answer to that.

JD, I like to turn my piece in the dye occasionally so it doesn't get light spots where it contacts the container. With spirit dyes, it doesn't take much to get the color but on the walnut or pecan dyes, where it needs to be in for a few days. Then I turn it every few hours.

[JD Alan]

Thanks for that info Will. I was all set to do some dye testing last week, then I got a request to officiate an out of state funeral. That cost me about 3 days total, and set me back a bit on any hobby time.

I'm casing some leather right now. I want to practice some stamping, then I can see what the dye looks like on stamped as well as untouched leather.

Thanks again, JD

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I'm casing some leather right now. I want to practice some stamping, then I can see what the dye looks like on stamped as well as untouched leather.

That's a good idea. I practice and try out new things on scraps. Then I use the scraps to test my dyes. That way I know how the dye penetrates around the cuts and stamping.

[ChuckBurrows]

I use #14 copper rivets. .......but as to what's historically correct, I really don't know.

IIRC #14's were what was required by the US Military during the latter half of the 19the Century and is the size I've seen most commonly used on civilian gun leather.
#9 and #12 were common on horse gear and were at times used on gun leather so aren't completely "wrong"

BTW - who are you getting your #14's from Will?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Thanks for the information, Chuck.

I think I got them from J. Leahy Co. I think Will Ghormley steered me to them. I just checked the link I have stored but they don't show #14's listed right now. http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/rivets/crvbl.htm.

[mike highgate]

Thanks a whole lot, Will and Chuck, for the info on rivets.

[mike highgate]

A question for belt-makers.
There are two types of clipped-corner buckles - those that have angled corners inside the buckle as well, and those that don't. Those with the angled corners inside can chafe the billet; I'd like to get hold of the other sort.
Yes, I know that Tandy do a chap buckle that looks right but for my taste it's a little flimsy, a little underweight.
Do any of you vaqueros out there know of a source for buckles of this type?

May I also say what a pleasure it is to find a forum where so much wonderful work - and advice - is on call.

[Noz]

I'm getting ready to make my variation of the slim jim holster for my 1860 Armys.
If I'm making a mistake someone yell loud.
I plan on the trigger guard being completely exposed with a double welt for the front of the trigger guard to rest on. The leather will then curve up over the cylinder and down in front exposing the hammer.

Next possible mistake. I'm using an 8-9 oz "horse butt" piece of leather and plan on lining it with 3 oz. calf.
What say you all?

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Howdy Gents

     This is a variation of a Cheyenne holster, it has a 3/4 length skirt, and a longer drop from the belt and a muzzle to the rear cant, and open toe, this was my first try at carving.

     The second holsters are also a Cheyenne holsters, these  holsters were dyed in natural walnut die, they have a toe plug, and a muzzle to the rear slight cant.

                                               tEN wOLVES

[Dr. Bob]

What great looking carving!!  Be proud!!