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21
Tall Tales / Re: May we move on, for coffee and chat ?
« Last post by Silver Creek Slim on Today at 06:44:48 AM »
Morning y'all.
Coffee and tea are hot.

Congrats, Deacon.

'Tis 35 and sunny. High of 71 and sunny.

Slim
22
The Darksider's Den / Re: How did we get these "Calibers"?
« Last post by Mako on Today at 01:55:35 AM »
Quote from: Abilene on Yesterday at 10:53:24 PM
Mako, that's an Army grip, right?  Did it come that way?

Yes it did, which is why I bought it.  I have big hands and prefer the Army grip.  I have never seen an original  '51 or '61 with the Army grip but you could order the '60 with the Navy grip from Colt's back in the day.   pbbbbbbb, little girl handed West Point graduates.  I have seen pictures of originals with Navy grips and they had brass trigger guards with brass back straps.  The brass back straps jump out at you when you see a color picture or in a collection.

I have '51s (Leech & Rigdons) and '61s which I can easily shoot with the smaller grips because they are mousegun caliber.  Basically the power factor of a .380 ACP.  The '60 army shooting balls is actually equivalent to a .38 spl. (140gr ball at less than 950 fps by my chronograph...)

I actually like the size of the later Dragoon Grips, I want my pinky on the grip and not underneath it.  I made the mistake of getting one pair of '71-'72 open tops in .38 Spl with the Navy Grips and another pair in .44 with the Army grips.  I wanted an "early model" and a "Late model" I wish they were all Army grips. 

Know anyone who wants to trade a pair of .44 spl (or .44 Colt) with Army grips for a pair of consecutive serial number 7 1/2" barrel .38 spl revolvers with Navy grips?  I don't care if they are Conversion Models or '71-'72s (barrel length doesn't matter). The .38s are very clean and shot very little.

~Mako
23
The Darksider's Den / Re: How did we get these "Calibers"?
« Last post by Abilene on Yesterday at 10:53:24 PM »
Mako, that's an Army grip, right?  Did it come that way?
24
CAS City Classifieds / Looking for: Gun Parts Corporation Winchester Barrel
« Last post by Niederlander on Yesterday at 08:46:08 PM »
Gentlemen, I'm looking for the Gun Parts Corporation Winchester 94 half octagon, half round barrel they used to sell.  You could buy the whole front end with button mag, forend, etc.  Let me know if you have one you'd like to move.  Thanks!
25
The Longbranch / Re: The "Card Game"
« Last post by Major E A Sterner on Yesterday at 08:13:53 PM »
Major throws in a stretched out leather belt with extra holes punched in it.
26
The Darksider's Den / Re: Which rifle for BP?
« Last post by Mako on Yesterday at 08:10:53 PM »
Quote from: DeaconKC on Yesterday at 05:39:09 PM
Okay guys, gonna try loading some APP and try BP loading.  Okay, which rifle of these two will play better with BP, my Rossi 92 in .357 Magnum or the Uberti 1873 in .45 Colt? Rifling, cleaning, etc?
Do you plan on shooting .357 or .38 spl? I'm not sure how well the Rossi feeds the .38 spl.  The '73 is the king of the Cowboy match guns, no ramp to go up the carrier lifts any bullet shape straight up and the bolt pushes it straight in. I personally think it is easier to clean a '66 or '73.  You pull the side plates and it is all right there. Dave, is right about blow by unless you load it full and compress it a bit.  You need that straight wall case to obdurate a bit to seal, but a lot of cowboys use the .45.  I have a couple of rifles in .38 spl. a Marlin '94  Cowboy Competition (actually chambered in .38 Spl not .357) and a Model '66 Yellowboy. 

I load my .38s with as much powder as I can compress under a 160 gr Snake Bite Grease Wagon and they expand well and seal the chamber. That bullet has a long ogive and actually shoots well in Marlins and '92 pattern rifles because of the length.  (Hellgate posted while I was typing this, it is exactly what I am saying) Short and stumpy sometimes has problems in rifles with ramps (Marlin/Winchester) I also have a couple of .44 Spl rifles (one's a carbine shooting .44 Russian)  Those are straight wall cases and once again I put as much powder as I can cram in under a 200 Grain Mav Dutchman and they obdurate and seal as well, even the .44 Russian.  I know people also do the same with .45 Cowboy in '66s and '73s with the carrier you have to add to use the shorter cartridge.  I have that carrier in my '66 that shoots .44 Russian.

The .44 WCF or .38 WCF do about the best, the bottleneck cases seal even better than straight walls.

I will tell you this though, I get more residue back in the action from racking the action as fast as I can shoot than I ever do on the range taking my time between shots.  There are speckles all over my '66s from black powder still smoking as I eject shells during a match.  I get as little as I do with my original Win 73 in .44 WCF when I am taking my time between shots (no hot unburned  powder flying...)

Check these images out below, this is a .38 Spl Short Rifle:

How they sell it...
see first image below

This is how it looks when you use them hard and even clean them (not polish them).
See second image below

And it is clean, this is the inside.
See third image

~Mako
27
The Darksider's Den / Re: Which rifle for BP?
« Last post by Cliff Fendley on Yesterday at 08:09:09 PM »
Sell them both and buy a 44-40.
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The Winchester Model 1873 / Re: Recreating the original .32WCF loading
« Last post by Black River Smith on Yesterday at 07:49:56 PM »
Little Dalton,

If you are recreating the original, why not search and wait for an original Winchester bullet mold off of Ebay.  Since you are willing to spend 100+ for an Accurate, just get the original one in decent shape.  Then after finding that or before, just buy a Winchester 1882 -- 32WCF plier reloading tool off of Ebay, too.

Then the BP you stated using and these two 'will' recreate the original cartridge, all the way.

Starline brass and the right amount of powder will work up a good cartridge.

Just a thought.

29
The Darksider's Den / Re: Which rifle for BP?
« Last post by hellgate on Yesterday at 07:40:59 PM »
I don't have a '73 so no advice there. I've been shooting a Rossi '92 since 1992 in SASS matches. If you use real gunpowder (BP) you will either need the Snakebite "greasewagon" bullet lubed with a BP lube or some other generous lube grooved bullet like the Lyman 358311 (that I use) and two discs of medium brood core bees wax under the bullet. That load will shoot all day but shoots a 5-6" group @50yds. Accurate enough for SASS distances. If you don't do the beeswax discs then you need to do a wet swab "pull through" to prevent the last 4-6" of barrel from fouling after about each 10 shots (20" barrel). Plan on the pull cord splatting against your sleeve permanently instilling a black smudge.

I have used various subs (with the exception of Pyrodex due to its corrosiveness): Black Canyon, Black Mag 3, APP, Cleanshot, Clearshot, 777, and Black MZ. All of those listed work just fine with standard smokeless lubes. All of them grouped into 1.5" @50 yds. All except 777 produce about the same velocity as real BP. The 777 (I use 3f size) shoot the bullets about 1/3 faster than all the rest. The manufacturer recommends to only use FFg size 777 for cartridges but I had already worked up the load befroe reading the warning and figured the 357 mag is a pretty high intensity cartridge so I haven't worried about pressure problems. YMMV. Now I only use the other subs in 38 SPL pistols when I want light recoil. I will use any 150-158gr lead bullet and 15 grains (weighed) in the 357 and crimped in.

The Rossis are more particular about cartridge overall length whitch will vary with the shape of the bullet so I always work up a load by first finding the best OAL for any particular bullet. If the bullet causes hiccups then I won't use it. You need to start with extra long dummy rounds (~5), run them through the gun and seat the bullets a couple thou deeper and run them through again until they look too short and start hiccupping again. Write down the OALs as you do this. You will find the sweet spot and that is the OAL for that bullet.
30
The Darksider's Den / Re: Which rifle for BP?
« Last post by Sedalia Dave on Yesterday at 06:09:33 PM »
To clean flush the action and barrel with hot water.  I Pull a Remington Squeeg-E through the bore and follow up with a wet patch.
Spray some Ballistol into the action and cycle a few times. Wipe down and you are good to go.

Every 3 to 6 months do a complete tear down and regrease the internals.
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