Special Interests - Groups & Societies > The Winchester Model 1873

First Time 73 Owner

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BrickwallJackson:
Hey Y'all,

I've been lurking for quite awhile but I finally have something to post about. About two years ago or more, I ended up with an original 3rd Model 73 frame, and I decided to build a full rifle off of it. You know. . ."for fun". LOL

Anyway, I managed to acquire all the parts I needed as original items, the only new parts being the barrel, the toggles and the wood. Other than that, she's 100% real.

Since this is my first 73, I thought I would ask the experts a couple of basic questions:


* Is there a way to adjust the stiffness of the finger lever on these guns?
* What are the lubrication points (and what would you recommend as a good lubricant)?
* Are there any other maintenance tasks you can recommend?
I'm an avid shooter, but my experience is more with military bolt action rifles and of course, the dreaded black guns. I shot a friend's Model 94 one time and I was hooked.

So here are a few pictures. I have ordered a Smokey Mountain front sight, and I need to get a rear sight for it but she's almost ready to go:

Abilene:
What a great project, and awesome wood!  The original '73's operating instructions say “There are three springs that may lose their tension by long use, viz., the “main spring,” the spring that holds up the finger-lever, called the “finger-lever spring,” and the spring that holds up the carrier-lever, called the “carrier-lever spring.”  Each of these has a set-screw, the heads of which are outside on the underside of the frame.  By turning these up the tension can be increased to the necessary strength or stiffness.” This indicates that, unlike modern reproductions which are over-sprung, the spring screws were not tightened all the way on originals.  If they are tight, then backing them out some will make a big difference.  If you go too far on the screws on the bottom, the carrier will start hanging up and the lever will start flopping.  Tighten them back up until it functions properly.  Make sure the main spring strain screw is backed out.  And you can shim the main spring with a washer between the spring and the lower tang to lighten that one.

BrickwallJackson:
Hey thanks for the info! Cool, I'll check it out. Kinda feels a little like the elevator is "hanging" a little bit. The lever is kinda hard to work but then. . .my tender hands are not used to lever guns!  ;D  Bolt guns are way easier on the hands. . .except for the punishing recoil (8mm Mauser will rattle your teeth loose)

I'll play with the two screws on the bottom of the frame in front of the lever first. The mainspring feels pretty good. . .I don't like to dry fire my guns if I can help it but it seems okay.

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Buckaroo Lou:
Man, thus far you have done a fantastic job.

I use a bit of Lubriplate grease where the springs ride against what ever it is they are providing tension for. I use a light gun oil on the pivot joints of the toggles. I also use a bit of Lubriplate in the toggle link troughs where the lever pin rides.

BrickwallJackson:

--- Quote from: Buckaroo Lou on January 24, 2023, 01:48:58 PM ---Man, thus far you have done a fantastic job.

I use a bit of Lubriplate grease where the springs ride against what ever it is they are providing tension for. I use a light gun oil on the pivot joints of the toggles. I also use a bit of Lubriplate in the toggle link troughs where the lever pin rides.

--- End quote ---

Hey thanks for the info and the compliment, man! Appreciate it. I have attached pictures of the lubricant that I'm using, as well as what I THINK is a missing screw.

Also. . .I have noticed that the screw which keeps the finger lever in place backs out occasionally. I'm guessing I can just put a little blue locktite on the threads at the end to keep it in place?

Again, thanks for the info! This forum is very cool.

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