Special Interests - Groups & Societies > Uberti, Pietta and other SAA Clones

New Uberti Stallion - pics and a few questions....

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Took it apart last night.  You are right, it is simple to work on these things. I was able to determine that the hand and its spring are working correctly, with no binding. After completely disassembling the gun and seeing how all the parts interact, it really is pretty simple and i can see that the bolt stop is being released just before the notch in the cylinder is over it, instead of snapping up, hallway up the cylinder notch ramp, like it should.  I also saw an online article on a gunsmith having to modify the stop cam on the hammer for this very same issue. This looks well within my capabilities, so i plan to take a little off the cam at a time, until i can get the stop to snap up on the ramp like it should instead off doing so, so late.  Wish me luck luck, and thanks for the help.

Edit: silly smartphone  :-[

Always remove metal from the cheapest part.  Don't remove metal from the hammer, remove it from the rear surface of the bolt leg.


--- Quote from: Pettifogger on August 19, 2012, 04:50:37 PM ---Always remove metal from the cheapest part.  Don't remove metal from the hammer, remove it from the rear surface of the bolt leg.

--- End quote ---
Ah, very good point.  I considered that since that would be easier anyway.  I'll do it.  Wonder why the Smith ground the cam instead of the stop leg, in this link? : http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archives/Oct04/Interview.htm Thanks for the tip, I will let you know how it turns out!

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Might be one of the old "D" cams Uberti used a few years ago.  Never seen anyone adjust bolt timing by grinding the cam.

sack peterson:
My educated guess is a D cam hammer was never used on the Stallion.

Don't do any thing to the cam other than polish it.  If cylinder rotation is lagging bolt engagement, you either need a bolt with longer cam leg or a longer hand.

1st thing to ascertain is that this gun goes into battery with 100% reliability.


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