opentop over rotating?

[Dakota Widowmaker]

I have one Pietta 1860 sherif that appears to over rotate if I work the action faster than normal.
My other gun does not have this problem.

What is the "normal" fix for this problem?

[RRio]

I have one Pietta 1860 sherif that appears to over rotate if I work the action faster than normal.
My other gun does not have this problem.

What is the "normal" fix for this problem?

Sounds like a weak trigger/bolt spring. Also, if the left leg of the bolt is a little too long, that will cause it to do that. But I would try putting a Wolff spring in it, before I did anything else.

http://www.gunsprings.com/1ndex.html

RRio

[Dakota Widowmaker]

Two follow up questions:
1) I assume Uberti and Pietta sear/bolt springs are interchangeable... I don't know who makes the EMF revolvers. (is it Pietta?)
2) Are wire and flat springs interchangeable?

Let me know ASAP if you would and I will place an order today!

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[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Isn't this a topic for the gunsmiths?  I would have thought the hand might be too long?  Is it the origonal cylinder?

[Fox Creek Kid]

If you're using a wire bolt spring that could be your problem as they lighten everything a little too much IMHO. Thes guns were not made to shoot quickly as when a person shoots two handed cocking with the left hand thumb (if that is what you're doing). Try a new regular flat bolt spring & adjust the tension via the screw holding it in.

[rifle]

After checking the springs tension and the bolt leg for being too long and delaying the bolt getting to the cylinder something else can be done to ensure better function for"fast shooting" . Make sure the edges of the cylinder notches aren't even slightly deformed or slightly peened into the notch. Put a very slight bevel to the edges on the bolts head. Use some "color" to put on the bolt head to see where in the notch it sets. If it sets into the shallow part of the notch then use of the file and color can get the bolt head grabbing at the deepest part of the notch. Color can tell ya if the bolt can get to the bottom of the cylinder notch. The idea is to help the bolt head slip effortlessly into that cylinder notch with out hanging up on the sides and make sure it gets into the deepest part of the notch. One thing to observe is if there is any wear bevel to the edge of the off side of the notch where the cylinder weight is stopped by hitting the bolt head. If the bolts head doesn't slip quick to the deepest part of the notch and hits the off side of the notch partially(not to the bottom) inserted then a slight wear bevel to the notches off side edge can act like a ramp of sorts and help the bolts head raise back out of the notch and let the cylinder keep going. A little wobble of the bolt on the bolt screw from a loose hole in the bolt can let the bolt rock with the blow so to speak and act like a ramp for the cylinder to push the bolt head down out of the notch. Stiffing the bolt spring can help cure the symptom but not cure the cause at times but it can help. Actually even a cylinder that is too slick in the central hole riding a polished arbor can let the cylinder kind of  freewheel and take off from the thrust of the hand and get ahead of the bolts action also. Some heavy grease can slow that down a little to make an observation. (white lithium grease)The bolt being too loose in the frames bolt window can let the bolt rock, and a bolt too tight in the frames bolt window(which can have roughness) can slow the bolt down. If too many of those little idiosyncrosies are present at once it all adds up to "cussin time" or "kitchen table gunsmith time" . A lot of the time when the parts fit together just well enough just stiffening the bolt spring can help.  Also maybe the surfaces where the bolt legs rub the frame and the hammer are a little too rough and  appose the bolt springs tension. See ya Bud