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41
BROW / Re: What should I look for in a shootable trapdoor?
« Last post by Arizona Trooper on June 30, 2022, 05:50:53 PM »
Here are a few comments to get you going.

The breechblock will rattle around on the pivot pin when open and wiggle slightly in the receiver when closed. Don't worry about that, it’s supposed to. The block actually floats slightly in the receiver, which allows the locking cam to wedge the block down when fired. In fact, you can safely fire the rifle with the pivot pin removed, but you have to rod out the empties.

The receiver breech and tang need to be well bedded in the stock. Take off the bands and tighten the tang screw. If the muzzle lifts out of the stock, the wood under the tang is compressed. Put some thin shims under the tang until the muzzle doesn’t lift with the tang screw tight. 1/64” birch plywood works great.

The rod lock at the tip of the stock is often broken, and you can't see the break without pulling the action out of the stock. If it is you will suffer with awful accuracy. You can replace the lock with the barrel out of the stock by removing the top band spring and dropping in another lock. Replacements are available from Trapdoorcollector.com, Dixie or S&S.

The bores are invariably very close to 0.450”, but groove diameter is always oversize, usually in the 0.461-0.463” range. The chambers run big too. Wolfe says to shoot soft 0.458” bullets and let them bump up (only works with black powder). I have had good luck sizing 0.001" over groove diameter. Chambers are big enough that rounds will usually seat even with 0.464-5” bullets.

The importance of headspace hadn’t been discovered in the 1870s. They all have lots of headspace. I have never seen a Trapdoor that wouldn’t close on a no-go gauge. You can solder a shim in the chamber rim cut to fix that if you want, but with "Trapdoor loads" it’s usually not an issue.

Sights are set up for “hold low”. The M-1884 sight is set for point blank of 285 yards or so with the slide down when shooting the 500 gr. bullet. It is WAY HIGH at 100. The M-1879 sights are about a foot high at 100. M-1879 and later rifles have a replaceable front sight blade. Tall blades are available to get sighted in. If you get an M-1873 with the one piece musket front sight DO NOT MESS WITH IT!! The early survivors with this sight are rare and shouldn’t be modified. Just figure out how low to hold and practice a lot. 

That should get you started. Have fun!!
42
Gunsmithing / Re: Trapdoor front sight
« Last post by mtmarfield on June 30, 2022, 04:19:40 PM »
      Greetings, DKC!

   I also have a Bannerman's / Sears / M'Ward Springfield; mine is an 1866 Allin .50-70, cut to 24", and was provided with a rather blocky barley-corn front sight that was dovetailed onto the barrel. It looks very period appropriate.
   I would also consider having a stud brazed to the barrel, preferably one that was dovetailed at the top to admit a small, drift-adjustable blade, to eliminate the need of hold-off.

              Good Luck! Photos!

                           M.T.Marfield
43
Gunsmithing / Re: Silver grip frame
« Last post by mtmarfield on June 30, 2022, 04:07:14 PM »
      Greetings, KS!

   I, too, have a Colt's 1862 PP, and a Colt's 1871, with bare brass that I'd love to Silver Plate; so, barring an obliging jeweler, I'll consider your solution!

             Thanks Mucho!

                       M. T. Marfield
44
The American Plainsmen Society / Re: 9mm Pinfire Revolver
« Last post by mtmarfield on June 30, 2022, 03:41:20 PM »
      Greetings!

   For a technique involving the manufacture of Pin-Fire Cartridges using modern cartridge brass, find a copy of George Nonte's, "Handloading For Handgunners".
   Best of Luck & keep us posted!

             M.T.Marfield
45
RATS / Re: Need a Heavier Hammer spring for my New Vaquero
« Last post by Baltimore Ed on June 30, 2022, 03:31:57 PM »
The only primers I’ve seen at the last shows are imported ones for way too much. A gunshop that I stopped at on the way home from the Baltimore Military Show called big dog outfitters in Va had a large assortment of primers 3 months ago.
46
The Leather Shop / Re: Pair Of Carved Holsters
« Last post by Marshal Will Wingam on June 30, 2022, 03:26:58 PM »
Where do you get your Chicago Screws from by the hunderds? I have not bought any in big lots yet but would if I found some.
I've found them most recently (within 5 years) on ebay.
47
The Leather Shop / Re: Pair Of Carved Holsters
« Last post by Rube Burrows on June 30, 2022, 01:17:46 PM »
This is a good point. I buy Chicago screws by the hundreds. On a belt, they let you change buckles, too. Generally, I only rivet or stitch things on if it's necessary to look historically correct or is a better solution.

Where do you get your Chicago Screws from by the hunderds? I have not bought any in big lots yet but would if I found some.
48
The Leather Shop / Re: Pair Of Carved Holsters
« Last post by Rube Burrows on June 30, 2022, 01:16:48 PM »
Really good job. Did you dye the background area BEFORE you dyed the rest of am I seeing a darker color due to the stamp?  How did you finish the holsters (dye/sealer, etc.  The rivets- I'd probably use Chicago screws so I could take them off if I made a mistake- but that's me.
Next project- I'd do a belt to match the holsters.

Thanks. Actually there was no dye used on this pair. The color was achieved by using Fiebings Gel Antique in a Med. Brown. Then Mink Oil was used.

I almost used Chicago Screws but the ones I had on hand were too long so I went with what I have plenty which is copper rivets.

49
RATS / Re: Need a Heavier Hammer spring for my New Vaquero
« Last post by Mustang Gregg on June 30, 2022, 12:18:21 PM »
Baltimore:

Have you been finding any small pistol primers yet?
Beware of new unknown internet component suppliers.  Some are scammers.
I have seen a few at the big box stores, by my LGS can't get any.
BTW:  The LGS is mine.

Mustang
Wild West Arms, Inc.
50
The Leather Shop / Re: Pair Of Carved Holsters
« Last post by Marshal Will Wingam on June 30, 2022, 12:00:49 PM »
...The rivets- I'd probably use Chicago screws so I could take them off if I made a mistake- but that's me.
Next project- I'd do a belt to match the holsters.
This is a good point. I buy Chicago screws by the hundreds. On a belt, they let you change buckles, too. Generally, I only rivet or stitch things on if it's necessary to look historically correct or is a better solution.
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