First be sure you can unscrew the end cap plug on the magazine tube.
Then try the round it will either feed or  it will jam.
If it feeds you are golden.
I it does not refer to it as the miserable male child of a female dog, unscrew the tube and dump everything out.
Reset the seating die.
In the Gunsmith tool section the magazine end cap tool of Uniquetek is the proper tool.
You will need that that and help to hold the gun. A very good vocabulary of profanity may be needed.
Be very careful replacing the end cap it is threaded about a zillion TPI.
At least that is my experience don't ask how I know.
respectfully submitted
Bunk

I always used the C&B pistol "wrist shake" when cocking for the next shot in a match. Only had one time it failed me.

THANKS Roosterman! I’m really feeling my way on this and it’s good to get some feedback!

Cap jam is a pretty thoroughly discussed problem for which there are multiple answers. The simplest things most anyone can do that will stop 90% of them are:
#1 Don't lighten the hammer spring excessively
#2 Swap out the nipples for ones with smaller flash holes (to prevent blowback of the hammer) using Slix-shot, Butler Creek, or Treso nipples
#3 Shoot lighter rather than max loads
#4 Slightly take the sharp edges off the safety notch on the hammer face to dull the edges so they are not so "grabby".
#5 Completely fill in that little safety notch that grabs spent caps. I actually had someone refer to it as the "Hellgate modification". The Pietta Colts have excessively wide safety notches compared to ASM guns. I use JB Weld but actually welding it flush would be best. I have never been able to get solder to stick to the case hardening on the hammer slot. Maybe some one can educated me on that.  I occasionally have to replace the JB Weld because it can get knocked out from shooting. 

For the more gunsmithy types I have seen how to install a cap guard shield onto the recoil shield with a narrow slot to allow a narrorwed/reshaped hammer to fit through or to cut a slot into the hammer face and install a peg in the hammer cutout in the frame in front of the nipple. Both modifications prevent the spent cap from moving rearward but require modification of the hammer face. I once had a pistol that had the cap shield on it but caps would drag against it and make for harder cylinder rotation. I've never installed the peg system but I believe it works the best. All I have ever done is described in the first paragraph. I'm sure I have left something out.

Here's a prior discussion from CAS City with more stuff:  https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=54411.0

BrickWall

It is my experience that the 44WCF loaded with a case full of Swiss 2F or Reloder 7 with a 30-1 alloy bullet is rather impressive.  I shot lever action silhouette with one for years. 200 meters off hand, no sling, no support knocking over rams.     200 yards with a rest it would easily be a deer harvesting machine.